TY  - CHAP
U1  - Konferenzveröffentlichung
A1  - Kosel, Gabriela
A1  - Rose, Katerina
T1  - Development and usage of 3D‐modeled body shapes for 3D‐pattern making
T2  - Proceedings of 3DBODY.Tech 2020 - 11th international conference and exhibition on 3D body scanning and processing technologies : November 17-18, 2020, Ascona, Switzerland
N2  - Today's pattern making methods for industrial purposes are including construction principles, which are based on mathematical formula and sizing charts. As a result, there are two-dimensional flats, which can be converted into a three-dimensional garment. Because of their high linearity, those patterns are incapable of recreating the complexity of the human body, which results in insufficient fit. Subsequent changes of the pattern require a high degree of experience and lead to an inefficient product development process. It is known that draping allows the development of more complex and demanding patterns, which corresponds more to the actual body shape. Therefore, this method is used in custom tailoring and haute couture to achieve perfect garment fit but is also associated with time.
So, there is the act of defiance to improve the fit of garments, to speed up production but maintain a good value for money. Reutlingen University is therefore working on the development of 3D-modelled body shapes for 3D draping, considering different layers of clothing, such as jackets or coats. For this purpose, 3D modelling is used to develop 3D-bodies that correspond to the finished dimensions of the garment. By flattening of the modelled body, it is then possible to obtain an optimal 2D Pattern of the body. The comparison of the conventional method and the developed method is done by 3D simulation.
Finally, the optical fit test is demonstrated by the simulated basic cuts, that a significantly better body wrapping through the newly developed methodology could be achieved. Unlike in the basic cuts, which were achieved by classical design principles have been created, only a few adjustments are necessary to obtain an optimized basic cut. Also, when considering the body distance, it is shown that the newly developed basic patterns provide a more even enclosure of the body.
KW  - patternmaking
KW  - 3D-flattening
KW  - clothing
KW  - modelling
KW  - garment fit
Y1  - 2020
UN  - https://nbn-resolving.org/urn:nbn:de:bsz:rt2-opus4-28906
UR  - https://vimeo.com/468619535/f9d4fb3bff
U6  - https://doi.org/10.15221/20.14
DO  - https://doi.org/10.15221/20.14
SP  - 9
S1  - 9
PB  - Hometrica Consulting
CY  - Ascona, Switzerland
ER  -