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The strong demand to transform the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires continuous implementation of the Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) mission statement in education and industry. To achieve this goal, the European research project "Fashion DIET - Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe. Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators", co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union (2020-1-DE01-KA203-005657), aims to create an ESD module for university lecturers and research-based teaching and learning materials delivered through an e-learning portal. First, an online questionnaire was rolled out to assess university faculty attitudes toward and needs for ESD content and methods. The feedback questionnaire enabled the selection of the most relevant data for the elaboration of an action and research-oriented professional development module for ESD in textile education, which will be accessible through an information & e-learning portal. The e-learning portal can be used as a web-based tool to apply and evaluate the project outcomes, e.g. the further education module and the teaching and learning materials for educators, such as manuals, broadcasts and the provision of interactive and physical materials. It thus ensures that the teaching materials can be used sustainably in the classroom. It also provides country-specific data for the fashion and textile industry and its market, taking into account the different perspectives of universities and schools. In any case, the portal represents (1) the web-based platform to support the dissemination of ESD as a guiding principle and (2) a central contact point for the target group to obtain relevant information on ESD. Fashion DIET explores the use of e-learning to improve teaching and learning on ESD, by training educators and empowering them as multipliers for a sustainable textile and fashion industry. At a higher level, the European project strengthens the quality and relevance of learning provision in education towards the latest developments in textile research and innovation in terms of a more sustainable fashion.
Das Ziel dieses Papiers ist es zu verstehen, inwieweit Musik und Mode voneinander abhängig und miteinander interagieren, wobei der Schwerpunkt auf der Entwicklung von Musik- und Modetrends im Zeitraum von 1950 bis heute liegt. Darüber hinaus soll dem Leser ein Einblick darin ermöglicht werden, ob die zur Verfügung stehende Technologie die Entwicklung und den Zugang zu Musik und Mode in Zukunft beeinflusst. Die Recherche für dieses Papier erforderte die Verwendung von Sekundärquellen, einschließlich Bibliotheks- und Online-Recherchen. Das Ziel war es, Informationen über die frühere und aktuelle Entwicklung von Musik und Mode zu sammeln. Diese Methoden waren die besten Alternativen zu Sekundärquellen, da sie zuverlässige Ergebnisse lieferten und so die Genauigkeit der gesammelten Daten erhöhten. Sie waren jedoch auch begrenzt, da vor allem Daten für die Mode- und Musikentwicklung der Nullerjahre begrenzt waren. Dies ist durch das Hauptergebnis erklärbar, dass die Entwicklung dieser Zeit nicht so deutlich ist wie die der früheren Zeiten, in denen ein Modetrend mit einem neuen Musikgenre oder Hit einherging, was bedeutet, dass Mode und Musik in gewissem Maße korrelieren, aber durch eine Reaktivierung der Musik- und Modetrends der Vorjahre ohne neue Erfindungen gekennzeichnet ist.
In recent years, the demand for accurate and efficient 3D body scanning technologies has increased, driven by the growing interest in personalised textile development and health care. This position paper presents the implementation of a novel 3D body scanner that integrates multiple RGB cameras and image stitching techniques to generate detailed point clouds and 3D mesh models. Our system significantly enhances the scanning process, achieving higher resolution and fidelity while reducing the cost, time and effort required for data acquisition and processing. Furthermore, we evaluate the potential use cases and applications of our 3D body scanner, focusing on the textile technology and health sectors. In textile development, the 3D scanner contributes to bespoke clothing production, allowing designers to construct made-to-measure garments, thus minimising waste and enhancing customer satisfaction through fitting clothing. In mental health care, the 3D body scanner can be employed as a tool for body image analysis, providing valuable insights into the psychological and emotional aspects of self-perception. By exploring the synergy between the 3D body scanner and these fields, we aim to foster interdisciplinary collaborations that drive advancements in personalisation, sustainability, and well-being.
Patterns are virtually simulated in 3D CAD programs before production to check the fit. However, achieving lifelike representations of human avatars, especially regarding soft tissue dynamics, remains challenging. This is mainly since conventional avatars in garment CAD programs are simulated with a continuous hard surface and not corresponding to the human physical and mechanical body properties of soft tissue. In the real world, the human body’s natural shape is affected by the contact pressure of tight-fitting textiles. To verify the fit of a simulated garment, the interactions between the individual body shape and the garment must be considered. This paper introduces an innovative approach to digitising the softness of human tissue using 4D scanning technology. The primary objective of this research is to explore the interactions between tissue softness and different compression levels of apparel, exerting pressure on the tissue to capture the changes in the natural shape. Therefore, to generate data and model an avatar with soft body physics, it is essential to capture the deform ability and elasticity of the soft tissue and map it into the modification options for a simulation. To aim this, various methods from different fields were researched and compared to evaluate 4D scanning as the most suitable method for capturing tissue deformability in vivo. In particular, it should be considered that the human body has different deformation capabilities depending on age, the amount of muscle and body fat. In addition, different tissue zones have different mechanical properties, so it is essential to identify and classify them to back up these properties for the simulation. It has been shown that by digitising the obtained data of the different defined applied pressure levels, a prediction of the deformation of the tissue of the exact person becomes possible. As technology advances and data sets grow, this approach has the potential to reshape how we verify fit digitally with soft avatars and leverage their realistic soft tissue properties for various practical purposes.
Thin, flat textile roofing offers negligible heat insulation. In warm areas, such roofing membranes are therefore equipped with metallized surfaces to reflect solar heat radiation, thus reducing the warming inside a textile building. Heat reflection effects achieved by metallic coatings are always accompanied by shading effects as the metals are non-transparent for visible light (VIS). Transparent conductive oxides (TCOs) are transparent for VIS and are able to reflect heat radiation in the infrared. TCOs are, e.g., widely used in the display industry. To achieve the perfect coatings needed for electronic devices, these are commonly applied using costly vacuum processes at high temperatures. Vacuum processes, on account of the high costs involved and high processing temperatures, are obstructive for an application involving textiles. Accepting that heat-reflecting textile membranes demand less perfect coatings, a wet chemical approach has been followed here when producing transparent heat-reflecting coatings. Commercially available TCOs were employed as colloidal dispersions or nanopowders to prepare sol-gel-based coating systems. Such coatings were applied to textile membranes as used for architectural textiles using simple coating techniques and at moderate curing temperatures not exceeding 130 °C. The coatings achieved about 90% transmission in the VIS spectrum and reduced near-infrared transmission (at about 2.5 µm) to nearly zero while reflecting up to 25% of that radiation. Up to 35% reflection has been realized in the far infrared, and emissivity values down to ε = 0.5777 have been measured.
Cotton contamination by honeydew is considered one of the significant problems for quality in textiles as it causes stickiness during manufacturing. Therefore, millions of dollars in losses are attributed to honeydew contamination each year. This work presents the use of UV hyperspectral imaging (225–300 nm) to characterize honeydew contamination on raw cotton samples. As reference samples, cotton samples were soaked in solutions containing sugar and proteins at different concentrations to mimic honeydew. Multivariate techniques such as a principal component analysis (PCA) and partial least squares regression (PLS-R) were used to predict and classify the amount of honeydew at each pixel of a hyperspectral image of raw cotton samples. The results show that the PCA model was able to differentiate cotton samples based on their sugar concentrations. The first two principal components (PCs) explain nearly 91.0% of the total variance. A PLS-R model was built, showing a performance with a coefficient of determination for the validation (R2cv) = 0.91 and root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) = 0.036 g. This PLS-R model was able to predict the honeydew content in grams on raw cotton samples for each pixel. In conclusion, UV hyperspectral imaging, in combination with multivariate data analysis, shows high potential for quality control in textiles.
It is widely recognized that Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) plays a critical role in creating a more sustainable world by fostering the development of the knowledge, skills, understanding, values, and actions necessary for such change (UNESCO, 2020). In this context, ESD represents a holistic approach that focuses on lifelong learning to create informed people who can make decisions today and in the future. Related to the textile and fashion industry, ESD is an appropriate approach to continuously implement sustainability aspects in education and training. To achieve this goal, the European project "Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) has developed a digital teaching module in a partnership between a University of Education and universities with textile departments. The main objective of the project is to elaborate an ESD module for university lecturers in order to introduce a sustainable fashion curriculum in textile universities in Europe and implement it in educational systems. The project therefore aims to train educators along the textile supply chain, to inform the young generation about the latest aspects of sustainability and raise awareness by implementing ESD in textile education. This paper presents the learning outcomes of the modules on sustainable fashion design and related production technologies developed by the technical university partners, as part of the total of 42 courses covering didactic-methodological approaches and the sustainable orientation of the fashion market, offered at the consortium level. The project content is made available as Open Educational Resources through Glocal Campus, an open-access e-learning platform that enables virtual collaboration between universities.
Mode & Musik
(2023)
Dieses Buch wird das Verständnis der Leser für die Verbindungen zwischen der Musik- und der Modeindustrie erweitern. Es hebt die Herausforderungen hervor, denen sich die Modeindustrie derzeit in Bezug auf den Hyperwettbewerb, die Definition immer schnellerer Trends, sich ändernde Verbraucherwünsche usw. gegenübersieht. Die Modeindustrie wird in der Tat stark von der digitalen Revolution in der Musikindustrie beeinflusst, die das Gesicht des individuellen Musikkonsums und des sozialen Bezugs verändert hat und sich daher auch auf den Modekonsum und den sozialen Bezug auswirkt. Dieses Verständnis ist von entscheidender Bedeutung, um die Strategien eines Modeunternehmens auf die Anforderungen der modernen Modekonsumenten auszurichten.
The replacement of conventional material with recyclates affects product personality, particularly regarding sustainability aspects influencing consumer behaviour. A definition of personality for products made of recyclates is missing in literature. As these products require appropriate aesthetics based on material origin to communicate the advantage concerning sustainability, there is a need for research in this regard. This paper aims to develop an adequate personality of a reusable water bottle made of ocean plastic by collecting personality traits that evoke associations related to the material's origin and sustainability. We conducted two quantitative field studies. Study 1 collected associated visual perceived attributes and context-related personality traits in order to develop and visualize a preliminary design. Study 2 evaluated the design regarding associated personality traits. The overall outcome was a product personality scale consisting of 23 items plus a concrete design recommendation for a water bottle made of recycled ocean plastic. The assessment of degree of sustainability was strongly influenced by participants’ associations with personal use, familiarity with usage and the factor of stability and resilience.
Naturfasern dienen der Menschheit seit Urzeiten als wichtiger Rohstoff für viele Gegenstände des täglichen Lebens, sei es als Kleidung, als technische Textilprodukte oder, im Falle von Cellulosefasern, als Ballaststoffe bei unserer Ernährung. Waren die allerersten Gebrauchstextilien unserer Vorfahren noch hauptsächlich tierischen Ursprungs in Form von Fellen und Pelzen, so wurden zunehmend die Pflanzenfasern als Ressource für vielfältige Anwendungen entdeckt. Dem Beispiel der Natur folgend, fanden die unterschiedlichen Faserarten Anwendung entsprechend ihres natürlichen Bestimmungszwecks bzw. entsprechend ihrer morphologischen und technologischen Eigenschaften. So wurde und wird z.B. Wolle aufgrund ihrer flexiblen, isolierenden und wärmenden Eigenschaften hauptsächlich als Kleidung und als Kälteschutz eingesetzt, während sich die steifen, glatten und festen Bastfasern wie Flachs oder Hanf, sich eher als Seile, Netze oder auch als Bogensehnen eigneten.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore why men do not rent luxury fashion to explain why the demand for luxury fashion rental services for men is so low and to contribute to science by collecting high-quality data for the research fields gender differences in barriers to renting fashion, barriers to participating in renting luxury fashion in general and to increase the amount of data on men consumption behavior in the field of fashion and luxury fashion research. Furthermore, this study aims not only to make a theoretical contribution, but also to provide practical implications for the luxury fashion rental industry.
Design/methodology/approach
To answer the research question, qualitative semi-structured interviews with seven men were conducted, who are interested in fashion and spend at least 10% of their monthly net income on luxury fashion per month. Through a deductively-inductively category-based qualitative content analysis of the interviews supported by the software MAXQDA, not only were the reasons found why many men refuse to rent luxury fashion, but also characteristics were discovered that make luxury fashion rental services more attractive to men, as well as two fashion segments and a product category in which men can imagine renting fashion or luxury fashion under certain circumstances.
Findings
Men reject the concept of renting primarily because of the nonexistence of ownership, which has to do with loss of emotional value, loss of functional value, fear of social rejection, and identity concerns; other reasons include lack of individualism, lack of habit and their own subjective standards. Except for two outliers, the remaining men surveyed could imagine using a luxury rental service under certain conditions. The most frequently mentioned features were omnichannel approach, transparency of the entire rental process provided by reviews and feedback about both the borrower and the lender, information about the cleaning process, and proof of authenticity. Also mentioned was the maintenance of exclusivity and the fact that rental services should be offered directly by the company. In the convenience category, the purchase option and insurance were mentioned most often. In addition, some men could imagine renting event-related clothing, very trendy and expensive luxury clothing, and luxury watches. However, none of the respondents would give up owning clothes and primarily use the LFRS.
Value/Practical Implications
So that marketers do not have to go through trial and error to figure out which of these characteristics works best for which male target group, the work developed five types that can be targeted with selected characteristics and their marketing, and thus perhaps persuaded to participate in the LFRS. The social type needs the feature of maintenance of exclusivity, the emotional type needs the purchase option and an omnichannel experience, the flexibility type needs the same day delivery and free exchange possibilities, the cost-benefit type needs analytical tools to maximize his rental income or to calculate whether it is cheaper to buy or rent this particular item for this particular period of time, the rule-governed type needs an added value in addition to renting such as a top service.
Flame-retardant finishing of cotton fabrics using DOPO functionalized alkoxy- and amido alkoxysilane
(2023)
In the present study, DOPO-based alkoxysilane (DOPO-ETES) and amido alkoxysilane (DOPO-AmdPTES) were synthesized by one-step and without by-products as halogen-free flame retardants. The flame retardants were applied on cotton fabric utilizing sol–gel method and pad-dry-cure finishing process. The flame retardancy, the thermal stability and the combustion ehaviour of treated cotton were evaluated by surface and bottom edge ignition flame test (according to EN ISO 15025), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and micro-scale combustion calorimeter (MCC). Unlike CO/DOPO-ETES sample, cotton treated with DOPO-AmdPTES nanosols exhibits self-extinguishing ehaviour with high char residue, an improvement of the LOI value and a significant reduction of the PHRR, HRC and THR compared to pristine cotton. Cotton finished with DOPO-AmdPTES reveals a semi-durability after ten laundering cycles keeping the flame-retardant properties unchanged. According to the results obtained from TGA-FTIR, Py-GC/MS and XPS, the major activity of flame retardant occurs in the condensed phase via catalytic induced char formation as physical barrier along with the activity in the gas phase derived mainly from the dilution effect. The early degradation of CO/DOPO-AmdPTES compared to CO/DOPO-ETES, triggered by the cleavage of the weak bond between P and C=O, as the DFT study indicated, provides the beneficial effect of this flame retardant on the fire resistance of cellulose.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
Polyester fibers are widely employed in a multitude of sectors and applications from the technical textiles to everyday life thanks to their durability, strength, and flexibility. Despite these advantages, polyester lacks in dyeability, adhesion of coating, hydrophilicity, and it is characterized by a low wettability respect to natural fibers. On this regard, beyond the harmful hydrophobic textile finishings of polyester fabrics containing fluorine-compounds, and in order to avoid pre-treatments, such as laser irradiation to improve their surface properties, research is moving towards the development of fluorine-free and safer coatings. In this work, the (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and various long alkyl-chain alkoxysilanes were employed for the fabrication in the presence of a catalyst of a water-based superhydrophobic finishing for polyester fabrics with a simple sol-gel, non-fluorinated, sustainable approach and the dip-pad-dry-cure method. The finished polyester fabrics surface properties were investigated by static and dynamic water repellency tests. Additionally, the resistance to common water-based liquids, abrasion resistance, moisture adsorption, and air permeability measurements were performed. Scanning electron microscopy was employed to examine the micro- and nano-morphology of the functionalized polyester fabrics surfaces. The obtained superhydrophobic finishings displayed high water-based stain resistance as well as good hydrophobicity after different cycles of abrasion.
Are textile structures better? In the professional world, there is no doubt that textile composites can offer many advantages. It is well known that they are often better than non-textile alternatives. There are manifold examples. Innovative developments are not only the popular textile reinforced concrete which was awarded with the Deutscher Zukunftspreis (German Future Award) but also a huge number of probably less perceived or spectacular products based on fiber-reinforced plastics.