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The strong demand to transform the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires continuous implementation of the Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) mission statement in education and industry. To achieve this goal, the European research project "Fashion DIET - Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe. Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators", co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union (2020-1-DE01-KA203-005657), aims to create an ESD module for university lecturers and research-based teaching and learning materials delivered through an e-learning portal. First, an online questionnaire was rolled out to assess university faculty attitudes toward and needs for ESD content and methods. The feedback questionnaire enabled the selection of the most relevant data for the elaboration of an action and research-oriented professional development module for ESD in textile education, which will be accessible through an information & e-learning portal. The e-learning portal can be used as a web-based tool to apply and evaluate the project outcomes, e.g. the further education module and the teaching and learning materials for educators, such as manuals, broadcasts and the provision of interactive and physical materials. It thus ensures that the teaching materials can be used sustainably in the classroom. It also provides country-specific data for the fashion and textile industry and its market, taking into account the different perspectives of universities and schools. In any case, the portal represents (1) the web-based platform to support the dissemination of ESD as a guiding principle and (2) a central contact point for the target group to obtain relevant information on ESD. Fashion DIET explores the use of e-learning to improve teaching and learning on ESD, by training educators and empowering them as multipliers for a sustainable textile and fashion industry. At a higher level, the European project strengthens the quality and relevance of learning provision in education towards the latest developments in textile research and innovation in terms of a more sustainable fashion.
Das Ziel dieses Papiers ist es zu verstehen, inwieweit Musik und Mode voneinander abhängig und miteinander interagieren, wobei der Schwerpunkt auf der Entwicklung von Musik- und Modetrends im Zeitraum von 1950 bis heute liegt. Darüber hinaus soll dem Leser ein Einblick darin ermöglicht werden, ob die zur Verfügung stehende Technologie die Entwicklung und den Zugang zu Musik und Mode in Zukunft beeinflusst. Die Recherche für dieses Papier erforderte die Verwendung von Sekundärquellen, einschließlich Bibliotheks- und Online-Recherchen. Das Ziel war es, Informationen über die frühere und aktuelle Entwicklung von Musik und Mode zu sammeln. Diese Methoden waren die besten Alternativen zu Sekundärquellen, da sie zuverlässige Ergebnisse lieferten und so die Genauigkeit der gesammelten Daten erhöhten. Sie waren jedoch auch begrenzt, da vor allem Daten für die Mode- und Musikentwicklung der Nullerjahre begrenzt waren. Dies ist durch das Hauptergebnis erklärbar, dass die Entwicklung dieser Zeit nicht so deutlich ist wie die der früheren Zeiten, in denen ein Modetrend mit einem neuen Musikgenre oder Hit einherging, was bedeutet, dass Mode und Musik in gewissem Maße korrelieren, aber durch eine Reaktivierung der Musik- und Modetrends der Vorjahre ohne neue Erfindungen gekennzeichnet ist.
It is widely recognized that Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) plays a critical role in creating a more sustainable world by fostering the development of the knowledge, skills, understanding, values, and actions necessary for such change (UNESCO, 2020). In this context, ESD represents a holistic approach that focuses on lifelong learning to create informed people who can make decisions today and in the future. Related to the textile and fashion industry, ESD is an appropriate approach to continuously implement sustainability aspects in education and training. To achieve this goal, the European project "Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) has developed a digital teaching module in a partnership between a University of Education and universities with textile departments. The main objective of the project is to elaborate an ESD module for university lecturers in order to introduce a sustainable fashion curriculum in textile universities in Europe and implement it in educational systems. The project therefore aims to train educators along the textile supply chain, to inform the young generation about the latest aspects of sustainability and raise awareness by implementing ESD in textile education. This paper presents the learning outcomes of the modules on sustainable fashion design and related production technologies developed by the technical university partners, as part of the total of 42 courses covering didactic-methodological approaches and the sustainable orientation of the fashion market, offered at the consortium level. The project content is made available as Open Educational Resources through Glocal Campus, an open-access e-learning platform that enables virtual collaboration between universities.
This paper explores why and how dominant international social standards used in the fashion industry are prone to implementation failures. A qualitative multiple-case study method was conducted, using purposive sampling to select 13 apparel supply chain actors. Data were collected through on-site semi-structured face-to-face interviews. The findings of the study are interpreted by using core tenets of agency theory. The case study findings clearly highlight why and how multi-tier apparel supply chains fail to implement social standards effectively. As a consequence of substantial goal conflicts and information asymmetries, sourcing agents and suppliers are driven to perform opportunistic behaviors in form of hidden characteristics, hidden intentions, and hidden actions, which significantly harm social standards. Fashion retailers need to empower their corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments by awarding an integrative role to sourcing decisions. Moreover, accurate calculation of orders, risk sharing, cost sharing, price premiums, and especially guaranteed order continuity for social compliance are critical to reduce opportunistic behaviors upstream of the supply chain. The development of social standards is highly suggested, e.g., by including novel metrics such as the assessment of buying practices or the evaluation of capacity planning at factories and the strict inclusion of subcontractors’ social performances. This paper presents evidence from multiple Vietnamese and Indonesian cases involving sourcing agents as well as Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers on a highly sensitive topic. With the development of the conceptual framework and the formulation of seven related novel propositions, this paper unveils the ineffectiveness of social standards, offers guidance for practitioners, and contributes to the neglected social dimension in sustainable supply chain management research and accountability literature.
For the widespread establishment of a circular economy, the acceptance of used products among consumers is a prerequisite. This paper investigates the customer experience of product service systems related to used products (PSSuP), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models, and aims to point out the offering characteristics that effect customer response and customer engagement. This study was conducted by means of a content analysis-based literature review of 69 empirical PSSuP studies. A frequency analysis of the categories that determine customer experience creation was conducted, as well as a contingency analysis to reveal the interrelationship between these categories. On this basis, the different PSSuP types were compared, and four strategic orientations of customer experience creation in PSSuP are pointed out: price, confidence, convenience, and delight orientation. For each of these strategic orientations, supportive PSSuP offering characteristics are specified. Building on the findings of this study, theoretical and managerial implications for product–service systems marketing are pointed out, and the need for research on the role of information and communication technology as an enabler of customer experience creation in PSSuP is highlighted.
Defining the antecedents of experience co-creation as applied to alternative consumption models
(2019)
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to propose a conceptual framework of experience co-creation that captures the multi-dimensionality of this construct, as well as a research process for defining of the antecedents of experience co-creation.
Design/methodology/approach – The framework of experience co-creation was conceptualized by means of a literature review. Subsequently, this framework was used as the conceptual basis for a qualitative content analysis of 66 empirical papers investigating alternative consumption models (ACMs), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models.
Findings – The qualitative content analysis resulted in 12 categories related to the consumer and 9 related to the ACM offerings that represent the antecedents of experience co-creation. These categories provide evidence that, to a large extent, the developed conceptual framework allows one to capture the multi-dimensionality of the experience co-creation construct.
Research limitations/implications – This study underscores the understanding of experience co-creation as a function of the characteristics of the offering – which are, in turn, a function of the consumers’ motives as determined by their lifeworlds – as well as to service design as an iterative approach to finding, creating and refining service offerings.
Practical implications – The investigation of the antecedents of experience co-creation can enable service providers to determine significant consumer market conditions for forecasting the suitability and viability of their offerings and to adjust their service designs accordingly.
Originality/value – This paper provides a step toward the operationalization of the dimension-related experience co creation construct and presents an approach to defining the antecedents of experience co-creation by considering different research perspectives that can enhance service design research.
In recent years the share economy has gained widespread success across different industries. Since small firms and new ventures obtain fewer resources, an increased focus on service allows them to differentiate and compete with cost pressure in traditionally manufacturing based industries. There still is a lack of understanding how these firms manage to successfully shift towards service-oriented business models. This paper adopts a dynamic capabilities approach to examine the particular microfoundations that underlie sensing, seizing and reconfiguring dynamic capabilities of early-stage service firms within a traditional retail market. The context of this study is the fashion industry. It is an ideal setting since it is characterized by severe competition, short life cycles, strong cost pressure and high volatility. There are few but increasing examples of entrepreneurial initiatives that try to compete by providing offers to resell, rent or swap clothes. Qualitative data of five early stage fashion ventures is analyzed. Findings reveal that the ability to develop and maintain long-term relationships is essential. It has also been found crucial to acquire knowledge from external network partners, delegate tasks and share information. Furthermore, skills for interacting with customers and adopting consumer feedback are critical. This study provides empirical evidence of dynamic capabilities of early-stage firms and contributes to knowledge on the factors that facilitate servitization in traditionally manufacturing based industries. For practitioners, the presented microfoundations provide a framework of critical tasks that allow them to develop and maintain a service oriented business model.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
Kleider machen Drummer
(2018)
Nicht nur Songs machen Musiker bekannt, sondern auch ihr Look: David Bowie, Kurt Cobain, Madonna, Elvis Presley haben durch ihre Musik und ihren Kleidungsstil ganze Generationen geprägt. Viele Drummer legen sehr viel Wert auf Technik - doch wenn man in der Musikbranche erfolgreich sein will, sollte man sich auch seiner Wirkungsweis bewusst sein.
The aim of this paper is to examine the impact of sustainability communication in the fashion industry on the customers’ behavior with a focus on consumers’ perception regarding websites with sustainability-specific content. Based on a profound literature review, a projective method in form of two dummy websites is developed. Both websites illustrate sustainability communication with comprehensive and transparent information demonstrating a credible, trustful and serious commitment. Additionally, both sites have the same structure and an appealing, visualized website design as well as a customer oriented communication. While each website consists of almost the same aspects such as Vision & Mission, Value chain, Corporate Commitment, Working Conditions, Environment, Social Commitment and documents such as a Sustainability Report and Code of Conduct, they differ enormously in the sustainability-specific content. For instance, website 1 represents a sustainable and responsible company communicating sustainable issues about eco-friendly materials, fair working conditions, ecological production and their social commitment. It further includes eco-friendly wash and care advices as seen by reformation to remember consumers to take care of the environment, e.g. to wash cold or by using ecological detergents. In contrast, website 2 does not represent a sustainable and responsible fashion brand. It also does not communicate sustainable efforts or a sustainable engagement. Rather it is about offering trendy, low-priced fast- fashion products, produced under unfair working conditions with wages and working hours as usual terms in production countries with a focus on style and design. Regarding website 2, all raw materials have been produced conventionally in developing countries and are therefore not eco-friendly, resulting in a pollution of the environment due to long transport routes. Additionally, the website voices the wish to improve the chances for developing animal protection only minimally, showing that the company is not socially committed. Although website 2 focuses on transparency and a customer-oriented communication, it is not sustainable. Both websites are tested via an online survey. A total of 90 fashion students participated in the sample.
The fashion industry is well documented for causing significant environmental impact. Product-service systems (PSS) present a promising way to solve this challenge. PSS shift the focus toward complementary service offers, which decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption and entails dematerialization. However, PSS are not ecoefficient by nature but need to be accompanied by corporate environmental management (CEM) practices. The objective of this article is to examine the potential of PSS to contribute to the environmental sustainability of today's fashion industry by investigating if fashion firms with a positive attitude toward PSS implementation also pursue goals related to the ecological environment. For this purpose, analysis of variance (ANOVA) is conducted to analyze data of 102 fashion firms. Results reveal that the diffusion of PSS in today's fashion industry is low and few firms consider implementing PSS. Results, furthermore, demonstrate that PSS implementation is positively related to CEM. This indicates that existing structures of CEM favor PSS implementation and unlock the eco-efficient potential of implemented PSS in the fashion industry.
Case study: Marillion
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to highlight the use of crowdfunding,
demonstrated by a case study about the rock band Marillion. The research
methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the rock band Marillion and how they invented crowdfunding has been drafted. Findings suggest that the crowdfunding concept is no new phenomenon, since the rock band Marillion has investigated the business model. Recently, the funding method is applied to the fashion industry; hence it is efficient and engaging to finance projects by that specific business model. A limitation of this paper is that the topic of crowdfunding is new to the fashion business and needs further research and tests until they are practicable to interpret. Results show that there is a high potential for using crowdfunding in fashion by reaching a long-term change in this industry.
The purpose of this paper is to identify key success factors of Crowdfunding in the Music Business in order to discuss their applicability to the Fashion Industry. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic and non-academic references. Key research findings include four main success factors. First explains the innovative and adaptive nature of the music industry caused by historical evolution. Second strong commitment and connection to the fan base is identified as success factor. Third manageable effort for the realisation on a large scale reduces the risk of a failure. And, last success factor describes the successful implementation of campaign specific aspects. The discussion finally shows that three of four success factors can be adapted to the Fashion Business. Due to little scientific research in the field of Crowdfunding in the Music Business, the success factors are worked out independently, based on general literature. Accordingly, quantitative testing and further analysis is recommended.
This article aims to point out main changes of the music industry since the advent of the Internet and how the fashion industry can learn from it. Different factors are researched with a birds-eye perspective by conducting a literature review. The results are limited by the availability of sources and the implications are based on a theoretical foundation. For further research the conclusions drawn for the fashion industry have to be proven empirically. After reading the paper, the reader has rather an overview of the changed circumstances and how the music industry reacted than deep knowledge in each field. More specifically, this paper gives an overview of the changed circumstances due to digitalisation and how the music industry reacted within. As both the fashion and music industry have their similarities, they are limited in their comparability, since fashion products cannot be fully digitalized like a music record. The fact that the music industry had to reinvent itself rapidly to adopt new possibilities and chances results from the article. To make use of the sustainability trend and to build communities in order to include them in the creation process are the major suggestions for the fashion industry.
Case study: EMP
(2018)
The purpose of this research paper is to investigate the business model of the retailer EMP. The in-depth literature review develops the relevance of merchandising for the rock and heavy metal scene and the relevance of EMP within that market. Literature about existing approaches of multi-channelling has been reviewed. Based on this theoretical framework, a case study of EMP has been drafted. Findings are discussed, focusing on the performance of EMP as a multi-channel and lifestyle retailer and additionally provide valuable managerial implications for fashion retailers. Implications for further research address lifestyle retailers to contribute to the findings or validate them with different examples. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholar literature concerning EMP in particular. Hence, magazines, journals and information provided by the company serve as reference. Even though EMP provided some information, gathering any information about how EMP manages multi channelling operationally was not possible.
The purpose of this research paper is to find out to which extent rap music merchandise is influencing the fashion world of today. The research design is mainly created through analysing Internet sources. The key findings of this paper describe the way rap merchandise is created and distributed nowadays. Furthermore, is explained how an idea becomes trend and how rap artists influence trend creation, especially through social media channels. The topic around rap merchandising products and strategies is a very new one, thus there is barely any literature to find. Nevertheless, trend leading online music platforms and blogs offer a lot of grey literature about the research topic. In this paper, the analysis of rap merchandise and fashion is focused on clothing items to create a better understanding in which dimension the influence of rap merchandise on the fashion world is given.
The purpose of this paper is to find out how musicians are able to differentiate themselves from their competitors by using their style. Casting shows and the evolution of the contestants’ style during and after the show serve as a paradigm for creating differentiation by style. The method of research was diverse but largely drawn from research papers as well as online magazines and newspapers. Within the scope of the research, it was feasible to draw on a varied range of sources to answer the research question. In the course of this research paper, it was possible to define key factors for a musician to create differentiation by style in modern times. By examining the style of casting show contestants, it was explored to which extent they transform from rather normal people to pop stars. In reducing the detailed analysis of casting shows to three shows and contestants, only a broad overview was provided. The paper is of interest to those working for casting shows in order to develop those.
Co-design and endorsement
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to determine the success factors regarding celebrities of the music business involved in fashion advertising. That famous people have the power to help brands and products to stand out among others is proven and popular. This paper is concentrating on successful musicians and their endorsements of fashion brands and examines the benefits for both, the brand and the artist. It investigates how consumer perceives brand and artist collaboration and what factors enhance the purchase intention and increase sales. This paper is structured in the following manner: The introduction presents the research question and sets the aim for the paper, followed by the analysis of the existing literature. The paper ends with conclusions, limitations and suggestions for further research.
Music is omnipresent and an important factor for cultural and social development. Thus, the connection between music and fashion has rarely been contemplated yet. In particular, this research paper is concerned with the connection between music and fashion communication, with special interest to its emotional background in the context of neuromarketing. The research question of how music affects the perception of a fashion brand, when regarded as emotional stimulus in the context of neuromarketing, has been investigated by researching existing literature. Without attempting to explain neurological processes to their core, this paper tries to give an overview of how music generates emotion and how this can be used for branding activities. This led to the result that music causes positive emotional response of the consumer, when used in marketing actions. Through emotional response, the perception, identity, and recall of a brand are strongly influenced.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the role of in-store music in the fashion retail environment and to describe music as an atmospheric building tool in order to influence customer behaviour with emotions created by musical compositions. As offline retailer try to differentiate their stores through shopping experiences, atmospherics like visuals, scent and sound are appropriate tools to reinforce brand image and therefore customers’ willingness to enter, explore and purchase. Music can be a powerful primary element in creating or enhancing sensory experiences of shoppers and serves as a powerful connection to emotions. Focus of the literature review lies on the emotions which are triggered though different musical characteristics and then affect the customer behaviour. The paper offers a concisely presented review and highlights crucial aspects on what role in-store music has on customers’ perception of atmosphere, emotions and behaviour.