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Due to the increasing awareness of social and environmental issues of the consumer, sustainability has become significantly important in the fashion businesses. Therefore, developing a sustainable supply chain is crucial for fashion companies to meet consumer´s consciousness. According to Bin Shen (2014), the Fast Fashion Retailer H&M is more likely to select suppliers in countries with a low score on the human wellbeing factor of the Sustainable Society Index (SSI). This paper extends the findings of Bin Shen (2014) and investigates fashion firms of different segments on their scoring at the 8 underlying categories of the SSI. This approach let the researcher assume that fashion firms of different segments which are active in sustainability are selecting their suppliers in countries with a low degree on the 8 categories of the SSI. Consequently, by utilising the SSI as a tool, the findings of this paper will be helpful to profile and compare Fashion companies of different segments in their supplier selection in regards to sustainability.
Collaborative apparel consumption is proposed as more sustainable alternative to conventional consumption. The purpose of this study is the exploration of consumers’ motives to participate in collaborative apparel consumption. Findings suggest that consumers’ intention to participate in collaborative apparel consumption is mainly influenced by financial benefits, convenience and sustainability awareness.
A distinctive highlight of the dissertation at hand is the investigation of multiple apparel supply chain actors incorporating the views of a global apparel retailer in Europe and multiple suppliers in Vietnam and Indonesia.
More specifically, the dissertation presents a coherent investigation starting with the depiction of a conceptual framework for social management strategies as a means for social risk management (SRM), exclusively aiming at the apparel industry. In accordance to the identified research gaps and suggested research directions from the conceptual framework, the role of the apparel sourcing agent for social management strategies was analysed by conducting a multiple case study approach with evidence from Vietnam and Europe, ultimately suggesting ten propositions. Whereas a further multiple case study data collection in Vietnam, Indonesia and Europe allowed for the investigation of buyer-supplier relationships with regards to social compliance strategies by using core tenets of agency theory to interpret the findings and outline ten propositions. Based on the development of a conceptual framework on social SSCM in the apparel industry, the formulation of related 20 propositions with evidence from crucial developing (apparel sourcing) countries, and the application of agency theory which has been declared as a shortfall in this context, this thesis contributes with further grounding to SSCM theory and substantially contributes to the debate by addressing numerous research gaps.
This paper explores why and how dominant international social standards used in the fashion industry are prone to implementation failures. A qualitative multiple-case study method was conducted, using purposive sampling to select 13 apparel supply chain actors. Data were collected through on-site semi-structured face-to-face interviews. The findings of the study are interpreted by using core tenets of agency theory. The case study findings clearly highlight why and how multi-tier apparel supply chains fail to implement social standards effectively. As a consequence of substantial goal conflicts and information asymmetries, sourcing agents and suppliers are driven to perform opportunistic behaviors in form of hidden characteristics, hidden intentions, and hidden actions, which significantly harm social standards. Fashion retailers need to empower their corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments by awarding an integrative role to sourcing decisions. Moreover, accurate calculation of orders, risk sharing, cost sharing, price premiums, and especially guaranteed order continuity for social compliance are critical to reduce opportunistic behaviors upstream of the supply chain. The development of social standards is highly suggested, e.g., by including novel metrics such as the assessment of buying practices or the evaluation of capacity planning at factories and the strict inclusion of subcontractors’ social performances. This paper presents evidence from multiple Vietnamese and Indonesian cases involving sourcing agents as well as Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers on a highly sensitive topic. With the development of the conceptual framework and the formulation of seven related novel propositions, this paper unveils the ineffectiveness of social standards, offers guidance for practitioners, and contributes to the neglected social dimension in sustainable supply chain management research and accountability literature.
Impact of brand and country image on the perception of sustainability in the fashion business
(2015)
The fashion and textile industry is presently confronted to participate in the sustainability movement and society demands corporate social responsibility. Today, it is crucial for fashion companies to be able to measure, monitor and improve environmental and social performance, due to the fact that there is a heightened awareness of sustainable practices by stakeholders. The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion consumers on their sustainable perception of a fashion company. More specifically, the objective of this study is to highlight the fashion consumer`s awareness in regards to the sustainable practices of a fashion company by considering the brand and country image factors. An experimental research design was utilized for the study and the researcher surveyed 120 fashion students. The basis of the surveys within the experiment is the present sustainable practice of the fashion brand H&M. This research aims to understand, if and how fashion consumers are influenced by a fashion brand image or its souring practices, when it comes to evaluate the sustainable performance of a fashion company. Results show that participants have significantly different perceptions when considering the fashion brand image of H&M on the one hand and the sourcing countries of H&M on the other. The result of this research provides useful information about the actual state of affairs in sustainable knowledge of the consumer and the related power of a brand's image and its sourcing strategies.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
Social sustainable supply chain management in the textile and apparel industry : a literature review
(2017)
So far, a vast amount of studies on sustainability in supply chain management have been conducted by academics over the last decade. Nevertheless, socially related aspects are still neglected in the related discussion. The primary motivation of the present literature review has arisen from this shortcoming, thus the key purpose of this study is to enrich the discussion by providing a state of-the-art, focusing exclusively on social issues in sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) by considering the textile/apparel sector as the field of application. The authors conduct a literature review, including content analysis which covers 45 articles published in English peer-reviewed journals, and proposes a comprehensive map which integrates the latest findings on socially related practices in the textile/apparel industry with the dominant conceptualization in order to reveal potential research areas in the field. The results show an ongoing lack of investigation regarding the social dimension of the triple bottom line in SSCM. Findings indicate that a company’s internal orientation is the main assisting factor in sustainable supply chain management practices. Further, supplier collaboration and assessment can be interpreted as an offer for suppliers deriving from stakeholders and a focal company’s management of social risk. Nevertheless, suppliers do also face or even create huge barriers in improving their social performance. This calls for more empirical research and qualitative or quantitative survey methods, especially at the supplier level located in developing countries.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to find out the influences of sustainability labels on fashion buying behaviour. Despite key information about Fair Trade is provided in all stores of the sample company, customers seem not to be aware of the Fair Trade concept. Therefore this paper aims to give recommendations for a fashion retailer in terms of elucidation about Fair Trade by answering the following research questions: Which influences do sustainability labels wield on customer´s buying behaviour? Are consumers of textile products aware of the function and backgrounds of the Fair Trade label?
Design/methodology/approach: A paper-based questionnaire was administered to 128 customers of a German fashion retailer "Adler Modemärkte AG" in four city stores from which 127 were correctly completed. Additionally an adjusted self-completion questionnaire administered to 50.000 customers online from which a total of 1.712 were correctly completed. Descriptive analysis and cross tabulations were applied to abstract the main research findings and evaluate the hypotheses.
Findings: Key findings suggest that Adler should either enhance their communication strategy regarding Fair Trade or remove Fair Trade products from the assortment, as the majority of respondents are not aware of Adlers´ Fair Trade products. The Fair Trade label could neither be identified as consumer-barrier nor sales support. Further findings revealed participants have more knowledge about Fair Trade than initially assumed.
Research limitations/implications: Majorly women aged between 56 and 75 participated in the survey. Findings are limited to geography, the target group of the fashion retailer Adler, gender, age group and the research method questionnaire.
