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YouTube fashion videos
(2020)
YouTube is the most widely adopted and successful video sharing platform. It works as a marketing instrument and money-making tool for companies while reaching the target group. After considering the significant literature based on YouTube, it is striking that there is lack of information about YouTube’s benefits as a video marketing instrument for fashion brands. To establish this subject further, the purpose of this study is to enrich the existing findings on social video marketing on YouTube in the apparel industry. The findings indicate the importance of YouTube as a social network for fashion marketers. The second part conducts an empirical study, which makes the YouTube channel performance of nine fashion brands the subject of discussion. Thereby, three brands per lifestyle, sports and luxury sector are analyzed through comparative aspects. Accordingly, the differences and similarities within and between the sectors are analyzed and evaluated.
Woven piezoelectric sensors as part of the textile reinforcement of fiber reinforced plastics
(2019)
Sensor integration in fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) structures enables online process and structural health monitoring (SHM). This paper describes the development and application of woven fabric-based piezoelectric impact and bending sensors for integration into FRP. The work focuses on design and characterization of woven piezoelectric sensors, especially as a part of the reinforcement structure. The reinforcement of the component acts as a sensor in itself and therefore no additional external objects in the form of sensor components or sensor fibers, which could create unwanted weak points within the FRP, are added. The bending test results reveal a direct relationship between the applied load and the sensor signal. Furthermore, the appropriate sensor position in the component cross section was determined and the influence of thermal polarization on the sensor properties was investigated.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore why men do not rent luxury fashion to explain why the demand for luxury fashion rental services for men is so low and to contribute to science by collecting high-quality data for the research fields gender differences in barriers to renting fashion, barriers to participating in renting luxury fashion in general and to increase the amount of data on men consumption behavior in the field of fashion and luxury fashion research. Furthermore, this study aims not only to make a theoretical contribution, but also to provide practical implications for the luxury fashion rental industry.
Design/methodology/approach
To answer the research question, qualitative semi-structured interviews with seven men were conducted, who are interested in fashion and spend at least 10% of their monthly net income on luxury fashion per month. Through a deductively-inductively category-based qualitative content analysis of the interviews supported by the software MAXQDA, not only were the reasons found why many men refuse to rent luxury fashion, but also characteristics were discovered that make luxury fashion rental services more attractive to men, as well as two fashion segments and a product category in which men can imagine renting fashion or luxury fashion under certain circumstances.
Findings
Men reject the concept of renting primarily because of the nonexistence of ownership, which has to do with loss of emotional value, loss of functional value, fear of social rejection, and identity concerns; other reasons include lack of individualism, lack of habit and their own subjective standards. Except for two outliers, the remaining men surveyed could imagine using a luxury rental service under certain conditions. The most frequently mentioned features were omnichannel approach, transparency of the entire rental process provided by reviews and feedback about both the borrower and the lender, information about the cleaning process, and proof of authenticity. Also mentioned was the maintenance of exclusivity and the fact that rental services should be offered directly by the company. In the convenience category, the purchase option and insurance were mentioned most often. In addition, some men could imagine renting event-related clothing, very trendy and expensive luxury clothing, and luxury watches. However, none of the respondents would give up owning clothes and primarily use the LFRS.
Value/Practical Implications
So that marketers do not have to go through trial and error to figure out which of these characteristics works best for which male target group, the work developed five types that can be targeted with selected characteristics and their marketing, and thus perhaps persuaded to participate in the LFRS. The social type needs the feature of maintenance of exclusivity, the emotional type needs the purchase option and an omnichannel experience, the flexibility type needs the same day delivery and free exchange possibilities, the cost-benefit type needs analytical tools to maximize his rental income or to calculate whether it is cheaper to buy or rent this particular item for this particular period of time, the rule-governed type needs an added value in addition to renting such as a top service.
In addition to increased safety by detecting possible overload, continuous component monitoring by sensor integration makes the use of fiber reinforced plastics more cost-effective. Since the components are continuously monitored, one can switch from time-based to condition-based maintenance. However, the integration of conventional sensor components causes weak points, as foreign objects are inserted into the reinforcing structure. In this paper, we examine the use of the textile reinforcement as a sensor in itself. We describe how bending sensors can be formed by slightly modifying in the composite’s reinforcement structure. We investigated two different sensor principles. (1) The integration of textile plate capacitors into the structure; (2) The construction of textile piezo elements as part of the reinforcing structure. The bending test results reveal that textile plate capacitors show a load-dependent signal output. The samples with textile piezo elements show a significant increase in signal strength.
The purpose of this paper is to determine the relevance of social media for luxury brand management. It employs both a multi-methodological approach: After analyzing the online performance of the three luxury brands Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the empirical research includes a survey as well as an eye tracking test executed with Tobii Studio. The findings reveal that online and social media have given luxury fashion businesses the opportunity to establish a sustainable interaction with their customers and distinguish themselves from the competition. Still, the online business holds many challenges for luxury companies to overcome. This paper gives instructions as to how social media can be effectively incorporated into a luxury company.
The desire to combine advanced user friendly interfaces with a product personality communicating environmental friendliness to customers poses new challenges for car interior designers, as little research has been carried out in this field to date. In this paper, the creation of three personas aimed at defining key German car users with pro environmental behaviour is presented. After collecting ethnographic data of potential drivers through literature review, information about generation and Euro car segment led to the definition of three key user groups. The resulting personas were applied to determine the most important interaction points in car interior. Finally, present design cues of eco-friendly product personality developed in the field of automotive design were explored. Our work presents three strategic directions for the design development of future in-car user interfaces named as a) foster multimodal mobility; b) emphasize the interlinkage economy - sustainable driving; and c) highlight new technological developments. The presented results are meant as an impulse for developers to fit the needs of green customers and drivers when designing user-friendly HMI components.
Thin, flat textile roofing offers negligible heat insulation. In warm areas, such roofing membranes are therefore equipped with metallized surfaces to reflect solar heat radiation, thus reducing the warming inside a textile building. Heat reflection effects achieved by metallic coatings are always accompanied by shading effects as the metals are non-transparent for visible light (VIS). Transparent conductive oxides (TCOs) are transparent for VIS and are able to reflect heat radiation in the infrared. TCOs are, e.g., widely used in the display industry. To achieve the perfect coatings needed for electronic devices, these are commonly applied using costly vacuum processes at high temperatures. Vacuum processes, on account of the high costs involved and high processing temperatures, are obstructive for an application involving textiles. Accepting that heat-reflecting textile membranes demand less perfect coatings, a wet chemical approach has been followed here when producing transparent heat-reflecting coatings. Commercially available TCOs were employed as colloidal dispersions or nanopowders to prepare sol-gel-based coating systems. Such coatings were applied to textile membranes as used for architectural textiles using simple coating techniques and at moderate curing temperatures not exceeding 130 °C. The coatings achieved about 90% transmission in the VIS spectrum and reduced near-infrared transmission (at about 2.5 µm) to nearly zero while reflecting up to 25% of that radiation. Up to 35% reflection has been realized in the far infrared, and emissivity values down to ε = 0.5777 have been measured.
The purpose of this paper is to study the recycling form of reusing second hand clothing from a conventional fashion brand’s perspective. It should clarify which measures and activities a fashion company needs to integrate in its value chain in order to offer branded second hand merchandise in a self-operated store. The research paper relies on a desk-based research and aims to illustrate the topic by means of a descriptive approach, processing the existing literature. Key findings demonstrate that fashion brands need to integrate complete lifecycle strategies, sustainability communication, and reverse logistics structures, like take-back schemes, for offering second hand clothing. The main limitations evolve from the research design. Further, empirical evidences need to be conducted for a more fundamental understanding of the new business model.
This paper investigates if food ^ retailing mobile applications from Germany, Austria, USA and the United Kingdom are meant to stay a marginal topic in grocery shopping, or if they have the potential to significantly shape the future of grocery retailing by serving as competitive advantages that can fulfil customer requirements and satisfaction. It has filtered out success factors in form of functions of grocery apps and it has extracted key competencies that can be used to create customer value. The Kano model can help selecting the right app functions. But, there are other prerequisites, like customers’ general attitude towards technology and their acceptance towards any kind of apps, that play an important role looking at the big picture of apps in grocery retailing. However, this paper has contributed one vital part of giving more importance to apps in grocery retailing in form of app functions that clearly deliver customer value. In short, apps that fit customers’ needs and that provide usability and convenience clearly have the potential to shape the future of grocery retailing - if key barriers towards app use are eliminated and if incentives are given that overcome scepticism.
Purpose: This paper is to show what sustainable fashion is and how it has developed in recent years. Also the paper discusses which factors are important in order to be sustainable. Above all, it's about customers who show a lot interest in sustainable fashion. Child labor, working conditions, poor quality and poisonous substances are stricty rejected by these consumers. Amazingly, fashion companies that repeatedly hit the headlines with bad properties are very successful. It's about the sustainable oxymoron, the act and want of the consumer.
Findings: It is difficult to be sustainable. The reasons for that are the consumption, not much transparency in textile chains, fast fashion and much more. It's almost impossible for a product to achieve the 100 percent sustainability. On one hand the consumers want to have sustainable products, on the other hand they purchase for newness and cheap clothes. It has become clear that they buy in a conflict.
The second hand concept indicates a growing trend in clothing recently, leading to growing numbers of second hand shops and developments of new second hand retail forms. This paper concentrates on the current second hand market for fashion products and presents the different motives toward second hand consumption as well as alternative consumption channels for second hand products. The findings of the paper are founded on literature research of academic articles and case studies. Results show that there is a high potential for the second hand market due to the increasing interest of consumers in buying second hand products. The paper concentrates on the second hand market for fashion products in the western society. This means that there was no research on second hand products for disadvantaged people in poor countries. Furthermore, the paper focuses the formal second hand retail channels to see what is already on the market.
This study focuses on the different roles of social media for the promotion of a sustainable lifestyle, behaviour and consumption, especially with regard to the typically non-ethical fashion industry. Research findings include eight roles of social media influencing a sustainable consumption contrary to prior research naming one to five impacts. Results show that social media educates and engages the young and ethically interested target group besides increasing supply chain transparency and brand or theme awareness. Furthermore, social media provides a platform for organisations’ relationship management and social interaction since users get empowered to share experiences which leads to a higher level of trust.
Implementation of product-service systems (PSS) requires structural changes in the way that business in manufacturing industries is traditionally conducted. Literature frequently mentions the importance of human resource management (HRM), since people are involved in the entire process of PSS development and employees are the primary link to customers. However, to this day, no study has provided empirical evidence whether and in what way HRM of firms that implement PSS differs from HRM of firms that solely run a traditional manufacturing based business model. The aim of this study is to contribute to closing this gap by investigating the particular HR components of manufacturing firms that implement PSS and compare it with the HRM of firms that do not. The context of this study is the fashion industry, which is an ideal setting since it is a mature and highly competitive industry that is well-documented for causing significant environmental impact. PSS present a promising opportunity for fashion firms to differentiate and mitigate the industry’s ecological footprint. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze data of 102 international fashion firms. Findings reveal a significant higher focus on nearly the entire spectrum of HRM components of firms that implement PSS compared with firms that do not. Empirical findings and their interpretation are utilized to propose a general framework of the role of HRM for PSS implementation. This serves as a departure point for both scholars and practitioners for further research, and fosters the understanding of the role of HRM for managing PSS implementation.
The purpose of this paper is to highlight potentials and limitations of the prosumer concept in fashion retail. The paper illustrates the evolution of prosumption and in which directions the concept is being developed. The primary research is based on a literature review containing different sources of academic and non-academic references. Findings suggest that the prosumer concept is no new phenomenon. Recently, it has moved into the focus of companies that have noted that it is efficient when engaging with customers in order to strengthen their brand loyalty. An increasing number of companies offer innovative business models that underlie the concept. However, lately smart prosuming machines are changing the objectives of the concept. Even if the prosumer concept exists since many years and scholars investigate its potentials continuously, it is the fashion industry that has been researched comparatively little up to now.
The fashion industry is well documented for causing significant environmental impact. Product-service systems (PSS) present a promising way to solve this challenge. PSS shift the focus toward complementary service offers, which decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption and entails dematerialization. However, PSS are not ecoefficient by nature but need to be accompanied by corporate environmental management (CEM) practices. The objective of this article is to examine the potential of PSS to contribute to the environmental sustainability of today's fashion industry by investigating if fashion firms with a positive attitude toward PSS implementation also pursue goals related to the ecological environment. For this purpose, analysis of variance (ANOVA) is conducted to analyze data of 102 fashion firms. Results reveal that the diffusion of PSS in today's fashion industry is low and few firms consider implementing PSS. Results, furthermore, demonstrate that PSS implementation is positively related to CEM. This indicates that existing structures of CEM favor PSS implementation and unlock the eco-efficient potential of implemented PSS in the fashion industry.
This chapter provides insights in the future of fashion film with respect to augmented reality and virtual reality technologies. The question: How does augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film? is therefore considered. It is important to analyze the influence of those technologies on fashion films to assess the potential for fashion retailers and in best case gain first-mover advantages. To answer the stated research question, a literature research was conducted to gain insights about the topic and its influence towards fashion filming. Explanation of augmented reality and virtual reality is provided as well as implications in the retail sector regarding fashion films. Moreover, company examples already using this approach have been compiled. Furthermore, an empirical research part was conducted including a survey method based on an online survey design. The questionnaire is based on what has been revealed in literature to gain in depth insides and approval. The data gained indicated that augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film in various ways. The findings highlight how important those technologies can be in order to enhance customer experience and engagement. Regarding the research question, the conclusion can be drawn that it is highly important for fashion managers to take future developments like augmented reality and virtual reality into account to stay competitive and satisfy the requirements of modern consumers.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyze if the practice of emotional fashion advertising has ethical dimensions, which must be considered by the companies using those advertising approaches in order to adhere to their general ethical and social responsibility.
Findings: First it was shown that companies have a social and hence ethical responsibility toward the society they operate in and that this responsibility includes their marketing and advertising activities. Furthermore it was examined how emotional advertising works in order to analyze this practice from an ethical point of view. It was shown that an emotional advertising approach can have negative effects on consumers and therefore could jeopardize a company's ethical responsibility.
Due to the increasing awareness of social and environmental issues of the consumer, sustainability has become significantly important in the fashion businesses. Therefore, developing a sustainable supply chain is crucial for fashion companies to meet consumer´s consciousness. According to Bin Shen (2014), the Fast Fashion Retailer H&M is more likely to select suppliers in countries with a low score on the human wellbeing factor of the Sustainable Society Index (SSI). This paper extends the findings of Bin Shen (2014) and investigates fashion firms of different segments on their scoring at the 8 underlying categories of the SSI. This approach let the researcher assume that fashion firms of different segments which are active in sustainability are selecting their suppliers in countries with a low degree on the 8 categories of the SSI. Consequently, by utilising the SSI as a tool, the findings of this paper will be helpful to profile and compare Fashion companies of different segments in their supplier selection in regards to sustainability.
The development and preservation of children’s innate creativity as they enter their professional career has grown in importance due to fundamental changes in today’s economy and society. It is therefore key to understand how teaching strategies can contribute to educational change in the early stages of schooling. Design teaching encompasses a variety of skills that can help schools shift their focus to foster children’s natural ability to “ask why” in their search for learning how to think and create. This article presents the results of an interdisciplinary workshop involving university students aiming to develop new educational approaches to foster children’s creativity through design to be implemented in the elementary school curriculum of the German federal state Baden-Württemberg. To support the workshop participants in providing a holistic concept within a compressed time period, a sustainability framework was included to further articulate their brief. The teams who were composed of chemists, computer scientists, designers, and engineers, followed the Design Thinking process to develop their proposals. A kick-off meeting presenting results of an international qualitative survey with elementary school teachers, as well as expert input during the workshop addressing the relevant topics, provided teams with key information to define their design directions. Concepts designed by each team exhibited a comprehensive solution resulting in both the abstract “education idea” and physical embodiments of the tools. Their outputs included products, interior concepts to be implemented in classrooms, exercises as well as games to support the newly developed educational models. The benefits and limitations of these concepts along with key observations of participants’ interdisciplinary collaboration are presented and discussed herein. Future work will investigate the Design knowledge of German elementary school teachers more in depth and will involve testing the new concepts in German elementary school environments.
The aim of this paper is to examine the impact of sustainability communication in the fashion industry on the customers’ behavior with a focus on consumers’ perception regarding websites with sustainability-specific content. Based on a profound literature review, a projective method in form of two dummy websites is developed. Both websites illustrate sustainability communication with comprehensive and transparent information demonstrating a credible, trustful and serious commitment. Additionally, both sites have the same structure and an appealing, visualized website design as well as a customer oriented communication. While each website consists of almost the same aspects such as Vision & Mission, Value chain, Corporate Commitment, Working Conditions, Environment, Social Commitment and documents such as a Sustainability Report and Code of Conduct, they differ enormously in the sustainability-specific content. For instance, website 1 represents a sustainable and responsible company communicating sustainable issues about eco-friendly materials, fair working conditions, ecological production and their social commitment. It further includes eco-friendly wash and care advices as seen by reformation to remember consumers to take care of the environment, e.g. to wash cold or by using ecological detergents. In contrast, website 2 does not represent a sustainable and responsible fashion brand. It also does not communicate sustainable efforts or a sustainable engagement. Rather it is about offering trendy, low-priced fast- fashion products, produced under unfair working conditions with wages and working hours as usual terms in production countries with a focus on style and design. Regarding website 2, all raw materials have been produced conventionally in developing countries and are therefore not eco-friendly, resulting in a pollution of the environment due to long transport routes. Additionally, the website voices the wish to improve the chances for developing animal protection only minimally, showing that the company is not socially committed. Although website 2 focuses on transparency and a customer-oriented communication, it is not sustainable. Both websites are tested via an online survey. A total of 90 fashion students participated in the sample.
Polyester fibers are widely employed in a multitude of sectors and applications from the technical textiles to everyday life thanks to their durability, strength, and flexibility. Despite these advantages, polyester lacks in dyeability, adhesion of coating, hydrophilicity, and it is characterized by a low wettability respect to natural fibers. On this regard, beyond the harmful hydrophobic textile finishings of polyester fabrics containing fluorine-compounds, and in order to avoid pre-treatments, such as laser irradiation to improve their surface properties, research is moving towards the development of fluorine-free and safer coatings. In this work, the (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and various long alkyl-chain alkoxysilanes were employed for the fabrication in the presence of a catalyst of a water-based superhydrophobic finishing for polyester fabrics with a simple sol-gel, non-fluorinated, sustainable approach and the dip-pad-dry-cure method. The finished polyester fabrics surface properties were investigated by static and dynamic water repellency tests. Additionally, the resistance to common water-based liquids, abrasion resistance, moisture adsorption, and air permeability measurements were performed. Scanning electron microscopy was employed to examine the micro- and nano-morphology of the functionalized polyester fabrics surfaces. The obtained superhydrophobic finishings displayed high water-based stain resistance as well as good hydrophobicity after different cycles of abrasion.
The current paper studies the influence of geometrical parameters of the fused deposition modeling (FDM) - fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printing process on printed part strength for open source desktop 3D printers and the most popular material used for that purpose - i.e., polylactic acid (PLA). The study was conducted using a set of different nozzles (0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm) and a range of layer heights from the minimum to maximum physical limits of the machine. To assess print strength, a novel assessment method is proposed. A tubular sample is loaded in the weakest direction (across layers) in a three point bending fixture. Mesostructure evaluation through scanning electronic microscopy (SEM) scans of the samples was used to explain the obtained results. We detected a significant influence of geometric process parameters on sample mesostructure, and consequently, on sample strength.
Sole value – the sneaker resale market :
an explorative analysis of the sneaker resale market
(2018)
The purpose of this explorative research paper is to examine the sneaker resale market and its typical processes in order to give a comprehensive overview over the secondary market for limited edition sneakers. Hypotheses are presented that will be analysed with the empirical research methods of expert interviews and sales data analysis. Amongst other findings, this paper shows that there is a complementary relationship between sneaker brands and the resale market; that product limitation is essential for value increases; that collaborations are necessary for sneaker brands to be relevant on the resale market and that the market is very fragmented. All combined circumstances described in this paper explain the sneaker resale market and its processes. Additionally, some outlooks on the future will be given with the help of expert interviewees and current developments on the market will be discussed.
Social sustainable supply chain management in the textile and apparel industry : a literature review
(2017)
So far, a vast amount of studies on sustainability in supply chain management have been conducted by academics over the last decade. Nevertheless, socially related aspects are still neglected in the related discussion. The primary motivation of the present literature review has arisen from this shortcoming, thus the key purpose of this study is to enrich the discussion by providing a state of-the-art, focusing exclusively on social issues in sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) by considering the textile/apparel sector as the field of application. The authors conduct a literature review, including content analysis which covers 45 articles published in English peer-reviewed journals, and proposes a comprehensive map which integrates the latest findings on socially related practices in the textile/apparel industry with the dominant conceptualization in order to reveal potential research areas in the field. The results show an ongoing lack of investigation regarding the social dimension of the triple bottom line in SSCM. Findings indicate that a company’s internal orientation is the main assisting factor in sustainable supply chain management practices. Further, supplier collaboration and assessment can be interpreted as an offer for suppliers deriving from stakeholders and a focal company’s management of social risk. Nevertheless, suppliers do also face or even create huge barriers in improving their social performance. This calls for more empirical research and qualitative or quantitative survey methods, especially at the supplier level located in developing countries.
This paper explores why and how dominant international social standards used in the fashion industry are prone to implementation failures. A qualitative multiple-case study method was conducted, using purposive sampling to select 13 apparel supply chain actors. Data were collected through on-site semi-structured face-to-face interviews. The findings of the study are interpreted by using core tenets of agency theory. The case study findings clearly highlight why and how multi-tier apparel supply chains fail to implement social standards effectively. As a consequence of substantial goal conflicts and information asymmetries, sourcing agents and suppliers are driven to perform opportunistic behaviors in form of hidden characteristics, hidden intentions, and hidden actions, which significantly harm social standards. Fashion retailers need to empower their corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments by awarding an integrative role to sourcing decisions. Moreover, accurate calculation of orders, risk sharing, cost sharing, price premiums, and especially guaranteed order continuity for social compliance are critical to reduce opportunistic behaviors upstream of the supply chain. The development of social standards is highly suggested, e.g., by including novel metrics such as the assessment of buying practices or the evaluation of capacity planning at factories and the strict inclusion of subcontractors’ social performances. This paper presents evidence from multiple Vietnamese and Indonesian cases involving sourcing agents as well as Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers on a highly sensitive topic. With the development of the conceptual framework and the formulation of seven related novel propositions, this paper unveils the ineffectiveness of social standards, offers guidance for practitioners, and contributes to the neglected social dimension in sustainable supply chain management research and accountability literature.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
A distinctive highlight of the dissertation at hand is the investigation of multiple apparel supply chain actors incorporating the views of a global apparel retailer in Europe and multiple suppliers in Vietnam and Indonesia.
More specifically, the dissertation presents a coherent investigation starting with the depiction of a conceptual framework for social management strategies as a means for social risk management (SRM), exclusively aiming at the apparel industry. In accordance to the identified research gaps and suggested research directions from the conceptual framework, the role of the apparel sourcing agent for social management strategies was analysed by conducting a multiple case study approach with evidence from Vietnam and Europe, ultimately suggesting ten propositions. Whereas a further multiple case study data collection in Vietnam, Indonesia and Europe allowed for the investigation of buyer-supplier relationships with regards to social compliance strategies by using core tenets of agency theory to interpret the findings and outline ten propositions. Based on the development of a conceptual framework on social SSCM in the apparel industry, the formulation of related 20 propositions with evidence from crucial developing (apparel sourcing) countries, and the application of agency theory which has been declared as a shortfall in this context, this thesis contributes with further grounding to SSCM theory and substantially contributes to the debate by addressing numerous research gaps.
Social and environmental risk management in supply chains : a survey in the clothing industry
(2015)
Almost daily, news indicates that there are environmental and social problems in globally fragmented supply chains. Even though conceptualisations of sustainable supply chain management suggest supplier-related risk management for sustainable products and processes as substantial for companies, research on how risk management for environmental and social issues in supply chains is performed has so far been neglected. This study aims at analysing both why companies in the clothing industry are performing management of social and environmental risks in their supply chain and what kind of action they are taking. Based on the literature on sustainable supply chain management and supply chain risk management as well as 10 expert interviews, a conceptual model for risk management in sustainable supply chains was developed. This model was tested in an empirical study in the clothing industry. The data were analysed by structural equation modelling. Results of the research show high statistical significance for the respective conceptual model. The main driver to perform risk management in environmental and social affairs is pressures and incentives from stakeholders. While companies’ corporate orientation mainly drives social actions, top management drives environmental affairs for differentiating themselves from competitors.
A premise guaranteeing the successful interdisciplinary teamwork in product design is a mutual understanding of both professional and academic communities of the different design expertise and the role they play in the process. It appears that the open compound word industrial design is open to interpretation in European education. This ambiguity had a negative impact on the labour policies of some European countries, which have labelled some professions with incorrect names. Therefore, this terminological inconsistency urges for clarification within the design community. This work analyses the term industrial design, it presents historical developments in European industrial design education, in particular in Germany and in the Netherlands, and discusses how the education to the industrial design profession was positioned towards product development. This paper suggests that the causes for the observed lack of clarity about the meaning of the term industrial design are of an etymological and disciplinary kind. In order to act as a bridge between the professional and academic communities, universities should create the premises for interdisciplinary collaboration between designers and engineers through standardized communication, ultimately contributing for a sustainable future in both design and engineering education.
This chapter looks at the usage of image films produced by brands and their dealing with themselves. It focuses on analyzing important film parameters, the content and the way it can influence brand image. A list of 70 fashion brands from different categories was gathered through a survey and confirmed by comparing the results with relevant literature. All 70 brands were looked at to find relevant self-referencing films. The films had to be produced by the brand themselves. Videos for advertisement or promoting collections are not regarded either. In total 22 films from 17 brands were analyzed. Results show that most brands seem to have recognized videos as a powerful marketing tool in the social media age. Many brands seem to struggle with the compliance of certain parameters such as length and the use of the brand logo. In general, the content of the videos is focused around the four topics recruitment, value, history and behind the brand. As for the intent, the videos can be classified into the three categories learning, emotion and doing something. This paper not only analyzes this special film category, but also gives recommendations to improve the videos.
Pultrusion of braids
(2016)
Customer needs and requirements are getting increasingly diverse and consumers more and more want to express their individuality with the products they buy. Due to the emergence of the internet and possibilities given, customers no longer only play a passive role, but are actually enabled to determine what they are purchasing. Therefore customisation or personlisation approaches like the miadidas concept from adidas, providing customised performance shoes or sneakers are more popular than ever. The prosumer concept already plays an important role trying to satisfy the demands of customers in future. As apparel for outdoor activities represents the largest and most important part of the sports good market in Germany and is yet still expected to grow, the purpose of this study is, on the one hand to identify diverse prosumer concepts existing and on the other hand to examine to what extent companies of the outdoor industry already have implemented prosumer concepts. A content analysis of homepages and online shops of 30 different European and North American outdoor brands was conducted. Results show, that companies of the outdoor industry have already implemented several prosumer concepts, but most of them are mainly concentrating on one prosumer approach and the involvement of professional users of their products.
Product-Service Systems (PSS) in the fashion industry : an analysis of intra-organizational factors
(2018)
The fashion industry is a vast industry that has grown tremendously over the last decades. This growth causes significant environmental impact since the production of clothes involves high input of energy, water, chemicals and generates great volumes of waste. Even though fashion firms have started to address this challenge by adopting environmental standards, it has turned out that the sole use of eco-friendly material and new manufacturing techniques is insufficient. Instead, sustainable business models are increasingly gaining attention to solve the environmental problems. Offers to rent, swap, repair or redesign clothes are among the most prominent and promising examples. For analytical purposes, these concepts can be assigned to the growing research stream of Product-Service Systems (PSS) that shift the focus from the pure sale of a product toward complementary or substitutional service offers. This decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption, prolongs the garments' lifetime and thus diminishes both material input and appertaining waste. Besides environmental sustainability, PSS imply potential economic benefits for organizations. Particularly in highly competitive industries like the fashion industry, PSS allow firms to differentiate, better compete with cost pressure and mitigate the risk of being imitated by rivels since service is more difficult to replicate. However, fashion PSS are still mainly operated in a niche market by small firms and have yet to be anchored in the mainstream fashion industry.
In times of e-commerce and digitalization, new markets are opening, young companies have the possibility to grow and new perspectives arise in terms of customer relationship. Customers require more possibilities of personalization. In the same time, companies have access to new and especially more information about the customer. Seems like it was a correlation that could evolve greatly if there weren't privacy issues. Vast amount of data about consumers are collected in Big Data warehouses. These shall be analyzed via predictive analytics and customers shall be classified by algorithms like clustering models, propensity models or collaborative filtering. All these subjects are growing in importance, as they are shaping the global marketing landscape. Marketers develop together with IT scientists new ways of analyzing customer databases and benefit from more accurate segmentation methods as that have been used until now. The following paper shall provide a literature review on new methods of consumer segmentation regarding the high inflow of new information via e-commerce. It will introduce readers in the subject of predictive analytics and will discuss several predictive models. The writing of the paper is not based on own empirical researches, but shall serve as a reference text for further researches. A conclusion will complete the paper.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the potential of a fashion fTRACE (ffTRACE) application that gives transparent insight on the supply chain of a fashion item. The research methodology applied to this purpose is a literature review examining academic references. The key findings of this paper are that information plays a major role in the consumer decision process and is therefore beneficial to the demand for sustainable products. Given the right information content in a transparent, credible and understandable way is important. It is found that the functions of such an application would be able to satisfy this consumer demand and therefore has the potential to raise the sales of a sustainable company as well as increase the brand’s awareness and improve its image. While mainly indicating the potentials of the ffTRACE application, their relevance is not examined in this paper.
Processing of recycled carbon fibers by wet-laid technology has many advantages. The fibers are implemented in water - no dusk formation. Further benefits are the light density of the fabric and the implementation of other layers (multilayer). First results of recyled carbon fibers from composite parts are showing good performances.
The wet chemical deposition of solution processed transparent conducting oxides (TCO) provides an alternative low cost and economical deposition technique to realize large-areas of conducting films. Since the price for the most common TCO Indium Tin Oxide rises enormously, Aluminum Zinc Oxide (AZO) as alternative TCO reaches more and more interest. The optoelectronical properties of nanoparticle coatings strongly depend beneath the porosity of the coating on the shape and size of the used particles. By using bigger or rod-shaped particles it is possible to minimize the amount of grain boundaries resulting in an improvement of the electrical properties, whereas particles bigger than 100 nm should not be used if highly transparent coatings are necessary as these big particles scatter the visible light and lower the transmittance of the coatings. In this work we present a simple method to synthesize AZO particles with different shape and size, but comparable electronical properties. We use a simple, well reproducible polyol method for synthesis and influence the shape and size of the particles by adding different amounts of water to the precursor solution. We can show that the addition of aluminum as dopant strongly hinders the crystal growth but the addition of water counteracts this, so that both, spherical and rod-shaped particles can be obtained.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles. An explorative approach was chosen for the literature section. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is possible in numerous different ways. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailers should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post-processing of these videos.
In the luxury Fashion industry, consumers could be categorized into two groups: fashion leader and Fashion follower. Both groups of consumers purchase luxury fashion products aim at satisfying both their functional needs and social needs (i.e., social influence). Thus the demands of both consumer groups are related. In this paper, we construct a model to examine the effects of pricing and online retail service in luxury fashion firms with social influence. To maximize profit, we identify the optimal prices and online retail service when the luxury fashion firms provide the non-differentiated and differentiated online retail services, respectively. More insights are discussed.
The purpose of this study is to evaluate online German fashion shopping websites from a customer perspective, based on a two-dimensional conceptual framework covering
shopping experience and shopping quality. As the research methodology, an exploratory mystery shopping approach was used in order to compare online shops. The results were as follows. First, four categories of online shops were identified: heroes, marketing winners, process winners, and underperformers. Second, three main levers for improvement were elaborated: emotionality of websites, reducing complexity, and the introduction of an industry standard of payments. From These results, it is possible to analyze and benchmark websites and to adapt online Marketing decisions as well as general management strategies for online fashion Shopping companies. The study has originality and value as it is the first time that an Evaluation of websites has combined the consumer´s perspective before the purchase and its fulfillment (e.g. delivery) after the online purchase.
There is no doubt that the amplification of channel integration towards an omni-channel structure is a powerful idea whose time has finally come. The digitally cross-linked world postulates all-encompassing, ubiquitous, and unobtrusive future services. In the concomitant, increasingly competitive market, retailers are starting to lay the foundation for omnichannel, meeting the expectations of a digitally cunning audience wanting their shopping experience to be as seamless and uncomplicated as possible. Nevertheless, recent researches show that there are still enough avenues for further research on omnichannel. Until now, the performance of companies was solely considered by experts from a suppliers’ point of view. It would be rather interesting to find out whether the desire to meet the increased cus-tomer expectations is also recognized by the customers themselves. This paper seeks to answering how the purchasing behavior has changed and what customers demand. In addition, it elaborates the opportunities that are promoted by omni-channel. Searching out all the effects, the paper will get to a final step, where it can be attested how the omnichannel performance of fashion and lifestyle retailers can be measured from a consumers’ perspective by developing an exclusive index. The study is confined to four fashion and lifestyle retailers: Hugo Boss AG, Levi Strauss & Co, Pull and Bear as well as COS. Using the scientific method of mystery shopping and a multi-item checklist including 54 key performance indicators, the paper aims to examine to which extend the four selected retailers provide a seamless customer journey, according to the five decision-making phases.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyze if omni-channeling is a prerequisite for physical stores to create an emotional shopping experience.
Findings: Due to the technological developments an changes in consumer behavior, the retailer needs to adapt digital tools and to offer services that link on- and offline channels ensuring an emotional shopping experience. Multi-channel retailers need to integrate their channels to satisfy the customer.
In the IGF project No. 19617 N, nitrogen and phosphorous substituted alkoxysilanes were prepared and their ability to inhibit fire growth and spread for fabrics was explored. To this end, a series of flame retardants were synthesized using different strategies including click chemistry and nucleophilic substitution of commercial organophosphorus compounds with amino-based trialkoxysilanes and/or cyanuric chloride. The new halogen-free and aldehyde-free flame retardants were applied to different fabrics such as cotton (CO), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyamide (PA) and their blends using the well-known pad-dry-cure technique and sol-gel method. The flame-retarding efficiencies were evaluated by EN ISO 15025 test methods (protective clothing-protection against heat and flame method of test for limited flame spread). Good flame retardancy of the hybrid organic-inorganic materials was achieved with the addition of as small amount as 3-5 wt.% for cotton fabrics. Moreover, the water solubility and the washing resistance could be controlled through the functional groups attached to the phosphor atom or through the optimization of the curing temperature. Overall, the research project demonstrated that N-P-silanes are very good permanent flame retardants for textiles.
Using the damage area as a quantification method for the Martindale test is a promising method to compare textile finishes without the need to test to full destruction. In addition, it could be shown that the results of Martindale tests performed with different pressure loads can be scaled to identical functional shape. If these results can be verified, this method would be a simplification of abrasive testing for different application areas.
Nanocoatings based on sol–gel coatings are presented as suitable tool to modify materials based on polymers. The main focus is set onto textiles as the most common polymer materials. It presents which types of functionalization can be reached by modified sol–gel processes. Also a suitable categorization of functions is given and set into relation to common applications. A special focus is set on the functional properties, antimicrobial, UV protective, and flame retardant. The concept of bifunctional coatings is discussed and especially the combination of water-repellent and antistatic is presented.
Hip-hop culture defines itself through four central pillars: DJing, MCing, breakdancing and graffiti, but a fifth one, fashion, may be in the coming. Hip-hop has become the most popular music genre, and the influence it has on society is undebatable. But as hip-hop artists increasingly underpin their music with visual components, like music videos, the question arises if that has an influence on the fashion industry. This chapter clarifies which factors may determine a fashion business impact and discusses differences between mainstream hip-hop artists and the ones that are active in the fashion industry as well. The focus lays on the way and amount fashion is presented in the music videos. 24 music videos were analyzed, thereof 15 popular records from the past three years and nine of artists that are already considered as fashion influential. Additionally, a fashion influence index was created to compare the degree of fashion between the music videos. Numbers of styles, recognized brands, fashion related song verses, fashion related description box mentions and articles about the fashion in the music video were noted. Findings reveal that the number of outfits shown in the video did not have a direct link to the amount of traffic it produces in fashion media. The artists that are considered influential in the fashion industry, name brands in their song lyrics more often and show brand logos more frequent in their music videos than others. Though over the observed years, for the mainstream hip-hop artists, a rise in fashion awareness can be seen through a higher number of styles, recognizable brands and fashion related verses in the lyrics.
Music is omnipresent and an important factor for cultural and social development. Thus, the connection between music and fashion has rarely been contemplated yet. In particular, this research paper is concerned with the connection between music and fashion communication, with special interest to its emotional background in the context of neuromarketing. The research question of how music affects the perception of a fashion brand, when regarded as emotional stimulus in the context of neuromarketing, has been investigated by researching existing literature. Without attempting to explain neurological processes to their core, this paper tries to give an overview of how music generates emotion and how this can be used for branding activities. This led to the result that music causes positive emotional response of the consumer, when used in marketing actions. Through emotional response, the perception, identity, and recall of a brand are strongly influenced.
Collaborative apparel consumption is proposed as more sustainable alternative to conventional consumption. The purpose of this study is the exploration of consumers’ motives to participate in collaborative apparel consumption. Findings suggest that consumers’ intention to participate in collaborative apparel consumption is mainly influenced by financial benefits, convenience and sustainability awareness.
The purpose of this research paper is to find out to which extent rap music merchandise is influencing the fashion world of today. The research design is mainly created through analysing Internet sources. The key findings of this paper describe the way rap merchandise is created and distributed nowadays. Furthermore, is explained how an idea becomes trend and how rap artists influence trend creation, especially through social media channels. The topic around rap merchandising products and strategies is a very new one, thus there is barely any literature to find. Nevertheless, trend leading online music platforms and blogs offer a lot of grey literature about the research topic. In this paper, the analysis of rap merchandise and fashion is focused on clothing items to create a better understanding in which dimension the influence of rap merchandise on the fashion world is given.
As the market penetration of alternative fuel vehicles is still uncertain, defining green design cues for their design is of specific relevance to target environmentally conscious customers. This paper is a review of the existing literature aiming at summarizing the market penetration scenarios of alternative fuel vehicles over the next years, consumer demand for sustainable materials, and present methodologies to represent characteristics of eco-friendly mobility in the interior of alternative fuel vehicles. In particular, present attempts to correlate materials with green design cues are explored. Finally, projections for the future of the field are suggested, posing enchanting research questions to further unify the field of environmentally conscious design with the domain of product personality.
This case study describes the emerging customized omnichannel loyalty solution of Marc O’Polo from a customer’s perspective. After the introduction of Marc O’Polo and their general omnichannel strategy, the loyalty program is described in detail, like Marc O’Polo for members and the mobile app, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities. A discussion chapter closes the case study with research implications and open questions for Marc O’Polo.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyse the main elements of successful customer loyalty programs in general and emotional components of the buying process in order to determine loyalty programs for fashion retailers.
Findings: The results of this study indicate that loyalty programs in fashion retail require considerable non-monetary benefits such as sense of exclusive membership and enhanced status to distinguish from competitors customer loyalty programs.
The purpose of this paper is to review, compare and contrast the body of published literature regarding consumer related emotions in fashion shopping behavior. This paper analyses 39 academic articles which focus on emotions in fashion shopping behavior between 2000 and 2013. Therefore articles which examine the influence of environmental stimuli in a retail setting as well as articles which focus on the impact of factors affecting individuals especially in shopping for fashion were analysed. Most of the articles are based on the SOR paradigm. A larger focus is recently placed on the research of emotions and consumers’ behavior in online fashion environments. The influence of stimuli, occurring in endogenous and exogenous ways, on consumers’ emotion and resulting behavior could be confirmed in most studies. However the determination of addressed emotions is already widely researched, the impact on consumers’ shopping behavior has to be analysed more detailed.
The purpose of this paper is to explain the key aspects and growing relevance of sustainability in fashion retail and to evaluate the possibilities of fashion retailers to act sustainable in supply chain management as well as carving out the challenges they have to deal with. The research methodology applied for this purpose is a critical literature review examining books and articles. The findings demonstrate the rising importance of sustainability in fashion retail. In this regard, fashion retailers play a key role and responsibility for sustainability in the fashion supply chain, from the beginning up to the end. This paper mainly analyzes sustainability in the fashion supply chain. It does not analyze topics like second-hand shopping or social media sustainability.
ITMA 2015 which took place from November 12-19, 2015, in Milan/Italy showed new record results. The number of exhibitors rose in comparison to ITMA 2011 by 25% to nearly 1,700 exhibitors, and visitors and exhibition space rose by 20%. A survey by the German Textile Machinery Association (VDMA) and interviews at the fair conducted by the author showed that the exhibiting companies were highly satisfied with the quality and the number of discussions and that many new customers could be acquired. Furthermore, the VDMA survey showed that 74% of the German companies already concluded negotiations and contracts at the show. Of particular note were the transactions of the Belgian weaving machinery manufacturer Picanol, which sold hundreds of machines directly at the fair. The estimatons regarding aftersales were also expected to be good to very good. This is a very welcome development in comparison to both preceding ITMA shows.
Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the value of the web representation of certain fashion hot spots and how these results can be shown on fashion maps in an illustrated way.
Design/methodology/approach: A new ranking was created, which was evaluated with a self-instructed index, to gain solid results. Numbers were collected from Google, Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and web.alert.io. Additionally, fashion maps were created for an illustrative visualization of the results.
Findings: Compared with the ranking of a trend forecasting agency, called Global Language Monitor, which concepted a ranking of non-virtual fashion cities, the web representation and therefore the ranking of the research project, differs mainly in the situation of the cities among the first 10, viz. the rank on which a city occurs, but fewer in the actual cities mentioned.
Research limitations: The research was limited to subjective analysis of data, leading to partly subjective results, as well as the selected number of social media platforms, that had been used.
Originality/value: This is the first study to explore the web representation value of fashion metropolises in comparison to their non-virtual ranking. The results are partly based on results that already existed, concerning transformations of fashion cities or in general which cities own the status of a fashion city.
The focus of this work lies on teaching methods for product design to stimulate novelty within a multiple disciplinary educational context. To address this issue, the different types of multiple disciplinary approach are presented by reviewing existing literature. As the initial study involved looking at the correlation between disciplines and product features, the definition of product design and its relationship with industrial design and other adjacent domains are introduced. The structure of a newly developed interdisciplinary master in product design is presented and, within this program, an educational activity fostering creativity in heterogeneous multiple disciplinary environments is described. Inspired by the approach of industrial designers to generate creative solutions, it is conceived to help product design students to flexibly adapt the problem and the solution space together through an iterative process.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyze the importance of word-of-mouth for fashion companies and to answer the research questions if fashion companies should integrate their customers actively in their marketing communication and if so, how can they approach the conversion of their customers into promoters?
Findings: The integraton of the customer into the marketing mix is inevitable in today's marketplace. Customers are heavily influencing the fashion industry escpecially the transmission of trends. Thereof, a redefinition and proactive integration of the customer as promoter is necessary.
Instagram fashion videos
(2020)
Instagram is one of the most used social media platforms to share photos and videos. Due to this, it can be seen as a helpful opportunity for companies to use the platform as a marketing tool in order to spread information to a wide range of potential customers. Ever since its launch, Instagram is strongly connected to fashion, which makes the platform in particular interesting for fashion brands. According to the screened literature, most brands use Instagram for marketing purposes. It is furthermore a matter of fact, that the utilization of videos plays a decisive role. Following up on this, the question about how brands use videos on Instagram for marketing purposes comes up. Due to this, this chapter aims to investigate the extent to which brands make use of videos on Instagram, what the goals of the videos are and what the most effective videos in terms of user engagement are. More specifically, this chapter includes an empirical study which examines the Instagram profiles of nine selected brands of the categories lifestyle, luxury and fashion and sportswear on the underlying research question. A subsequent evaluation and discussion of the results depicts differences and similarities within the categories and between the categories. All in all, the results of the study show that fashion brands use the possibility of films as a marketing tool on Instagram. The content and types of films thereby heavily depend on the brand category.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to assess the state of the art concerning the information demand of the sustainable consumer focusing on the characterization of the sustainable customer, the demanded information content with regard to fashion products and the expected information frame.
Findings: Key findings of this paper are that sustainable consumers share certain psychographics such as sustainable knowledge and perceived customer effectiveness. So demanded information content is about general sustainable knowledge and the concrete impact of sustainable purchase behavior. Fashion product attributes demanded are details about production, material and the after-purchase use. Concerning the information frame, consumers expect information to be credible, transparent and comprehensible. Eco-labels play an important role within the information frame.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to find out the influences of sustainability labels on fashion buying behaviour. Despite key information about Fair Trade is provided in all stores of the sample company, customers seem not to be aware of the Fair Trade concept. Therefore this paper aims to give recommendations for a fashion retailer in terms of elucidation about Fair Trade by answering the following research questions: Which influences do sustainability labels wield on customer´s buying behaviour? Are consumers of textile products aware of the function and backgrounds of the Fair Trade label?
Design/methodology/approach: A paper-based questionnaire was administered to 128 customers of a German fashion retailer "Adler Modemärkte AG" in four city stores from which 127 were correctly completed. Additionally an adjusted self-completion questionnaire administered to 50.000 customers online from which a total of 1.712 were correctly completed. Descriptive analysis and cross tabulations were applied to abstract the main research findings and evaluate the hypotheses.
Findings: Key findings suggest that Adler should either enhance their communication strategy regarding Fair Trade or remove Fair Trade products from the assortment, as the majority of respondents are not aware of Adlers´ Fair Trade products. The Fair Trade label could neither be identified as consumer-barrier nor sales support. Further findings revealed participants have more knowledge about Fair Trade than initially assumed.
Research limitations/implications: Majorly women aged between 56 and 75 participated in the survey. Findings are limited to geography, the target group of the fashion retailer Adler, gender, age group and the research method questionnaire.
Are textile structures better? In the professional world, there is no doubt that textile composites can offer many advantages. It is well known that they are often better than non-textile alternatives. There are manifold examples. Innovative developments are not only the popular textile reinforced concrete which was awarded with the Deutscher Zukunftspreis (German Future Award) but also a huge number of probably less perceived or spectacular products based on fiber-reinforced plastics.
This research is about Omnichannel Retailing and addresses the question how the omnichanneling of retailers in the fashion market can be measured. Our sources will include books, interviews, newspapers and scientific databases.
Omnichanneling is a current topic in the fashion market, retailers all over the world face the question on how to adapt to the challenges Omnichannel Retailing sets. We are going to define what Omnichanneling is by explaining the differences between Multiple-, Multi-, Cross- and Omnichannel Retailing. After we defined omnichanneling itself, we took a set of 26 retailers to evaluate regarding their Omnichannel capabilities. Then we create an index with criteria that can measure the Omnichannel capability of each retailer.
The Omnichannel Score is based on 31 criteria, which analyze the retailers in offline, online, mobile and social aspects enables to see differences between retailers. Our findings were that retailers in the US fashion market are more advanced in Omnichannel Retailing than retailers in the German fashion market. Our top three Omnichannel retailers were Sears with an Omnichannel Score of 91, followed by KOHL’S and Marks&Spencer, both with a Omnichannel Score of 88. The best Omnichannel Retailer from Germany was Adidas with the fourth place and an Omnichannel Score of 81.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the role of in-store music in the fashion retail environment and to describe music as an atmospheric building tool in order to influence customer behaviour with emotions created by musical compositions. As offline retailer try to differentiate their stores through shopping experiences, atmospherics like visuals, scent and sound are appropriate tools to reinforce brand image and therefore customers’ willingness to enter, explore and purchase. Music can be a powerful primary element in creating or enhancing sensory experiences of shoppers and serves as a powerful connection to emotions. Focus of the literature review lies on the emotions which are triggered though different musical characteristics and then affect the customer behaviour. The paper offers a concisely presented review and highlights crucial aspects on what role in-store music has on customers’ perception of atmosphere, emotions and behaviour.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
The purpose of this paper is to examine the impact on sustainability of fashion production and consumption in order to discuss what the main lever is to reduce the negative impact. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. Key findings suggest that fashion production and consumption have a single comparable impact on sustainability. Moreover, as the fashion production follows the demand, the consumer steers the production in a certain direction. Therefore, consumers take over responsibility and need to be informed. To reach a long-term change in the fashion industry, the consumer has to be the focus of the sustainable efforts. Most results in literature were conducted by qualitative research methods, so that further quantitative testing of the results is recommended. Furthermore, most surveys were conducted with young fashion consumers in the EU or UK which does not represent the fashion consumer in general.
The purpose of this paper is to define what impacts sustainable manufacturing standards have for retail brands concerning the communication policy and to find possible solutions of how the companies can deal with them. Therefore, sustainable standards and the impacts on the internal and external communication are described. The enclosed discussion finds possible solutions for the negative impacts. A literature discussion has been conducted to investigate the purpose. Generally, there are many impacts fashion retails have to consider, if they want to transform their company to become more sustainable, because only the impacts on a defined part of the communication policy were huge. A limitation of this paper is that the proposals how retailers could deal with the impacts of the transformation of the company toward more sustainability need further research and tests until they are practicable.
Purpose: This research paper deals with the question how the degree of transparency of a payment method influences the buying decision in fashion business. Therefore, consumer behavior and the decision-making process in fashion business are reviewed. Furthermore, the impact different degrees of payment transparency have on consumer behavior in general are compiled and evaluated.
Findings: It is assumed that the degree of transparency of a payment method has an impact on consumption in fashion business. Transparency relates positively to the pain of paying, which functions as a self-regulation tool by sending out signals about the conceivable consequences of spending money. Hence, the less transparent a payment is, the higher the willingness to spend will be. Moreover, it is assumed that transparency not only has an impact on consumption in fashion business, but the effect is also reinforced by consumer behavior.
Impact of brand and country image on the perception of sustainability in the fashion business
(2015)
The fashion and textile industry is presently confronted to participate in the sustainability movement and society demands corporate social responsibility. Today, it is crucial for fashion companies to be able to measure, monitor and improve environmental and social performance, due to the fact that there is a heightened awareness of sustainable practices by stakeholders. The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion consumers on their sustainable perception of a fashion company. More specifically, the objective of this study is to highlight the fashion consumer`s awareness in regards to the sustainable practices of a fashion company by considering the brand and country image factors. An experimental research design was utilized for the study and the researcher surveyed 120 fashion students. The basis of the surveys within the experiment is the present sustainable practice of the fashion brand H&M. This research aims to understand, if and how fashion consumers are influenced by a fashion brand image or its souring practices, when it comes to evaluate the sustainable performance of a fashion company. Results show that participants have significantly different perceptions when considering the fashion brand image of H&M on the one hand and the sourcing countries of H&M on the other. The result of this research provides useful information about the actual state of affairs in sustainable knowledge of the consumer and the related power of a brand's image and its sourcing strategies.
The purpose of this paper is to examine the relationship between the consumers’ perception of sustainability and the application of a QR-code in stores with the focus on the information searching behavior regarding sustainable aspects. An online questionnaire was conducted with fashion students at Reutlingen University: in total, 65 students participated in the survey. Paired samples t-test and other statistical analyses were applied to test research questions. Apart from this, the research paper is based on a literature review. Furthermore, the decision was taken to use a projective method in the form of a dummy fashion fTRACE website. Key findings of the survey are that participants give sustainable aspects a higher importance with a QR-code than without one. Participants who prefer a product with detailed information experience a “positive shopping feeling” when provided with transparency via a QR-code. “Origin”, “production” and “quality” were rated of higher importance by those participants. These findings suggest that, transparency provided through the application of a QR-Code in stores influences the consumers’ perception of sustainability. Due to the small sample size of participants (65) in the study, findings of this research not generalizable to a larger population. This paper focused on the consumers’ information searching behavior regarding sustainable aspects, limiting its findings to impacts on perception of sustainability. Further research is therefore recommended.
This article aims to point out main changes of the music industry since the advent of the Internet and how the fashion industry can learn from it. Different factors are researched with a birds-eye perspective by conducting a literature review. The results are limited by the availability of sources and the implications are based on a theoretical foundation. For further research the conclusions drawn for the fashion industry have to be proven empirically. After reading the paper, the reader has rather an overview of the changed circumstances and how the music industry reacted than deep knowledge in each field. More specifically, this paper gives an overview of the changed circumstances due to digitalisation and how the music industry reacted within. As both the fashion and music industry have their similarities, they are limited in their comparability, since fashion products cannot be fully digitalized like a music record. The fact that the music industry had to reinvent itself rapidly to adopt new possibilities and chances results from the article. To make use of the sustainability trend and to build communities in order to include them in the creation process are the major suggestions for the fashion industry.
The replacement of conventional material with recyclates affects product personality, particularly regarding sustainability aspects influencing consumer behaviour. A definition of personality for products made of recyclates is missing in literature. As these products require appropriate aesthetics based on material origin to communicate the advantage concerning sustainability, there is a need for research in this regard. This paper aims to develop an adequate personality of a reusable water bottle made of ocean plastic by collecting personality traits that evoke associations related to the material's origin and sustainability. We conducted two quantitative field studies. Study 1 collected associated visual perceived attributes and context-related personality traits in order to develop and visualize a preliminary design. Study 2 evaluated the design regarding associated personality traits. The overall outcome was a product personality scale consisting of 23 items plus a concrete design recommendation for a water bottle made of recycled ocean plastic. The assessment of degree of sustainability was strongly influenced by participants’ associations with personal use, familiarity with usage and the factor of stability and resilience.
Green fashion retail
(2017)
This book focuses on sustainability in fashion retail, which is fast becoming the pivot point of future fashion retail strategies. Chapters in the book provide theoretical and practical insight on how going green may positively influence the strategy of fashion retailers and marketers, who have to react to the changing society and customer needs. Structured in four main parts, and based on distinct research questions, readers will be able to dig deep into the individual levers for possible adaptions. It thus provides a solid understanding on how to integrate green aspects into any fashion retailers business model.
Indium tin oxide (ITO) particle coatings are known for high transparency in the visible, good conductive properties and near-infrared absorption. These properties depend on ITO particle's stiochiometric composition, defects and size. Here we present a method to gradually change ITO particle's optical properties by a simple and controlled laser irradiation process. The defined irradiation process and controlled energy dose input allows one to engineer the absorption and transsmission of coatings made from these particles. We investigate the role of the surrounding solvent, influence of laser fluence and the specific energy dose targeting modification of the ITO particle's morphology and chemistry by stepwise laser irradiation in a free liquid jet. TEM, SEM, EDX, XPS, XRD and Raman are used to elucidate the structural, morphological and chemical changes of the laser-induced ITO particles. On the basis of these results the observed modification of the optical properties is tentatively attributed to chemical changes, e.g. laser-induced defects or partial reduction.
Purpose: This research paper provides a general assessment and analysis of social media in digital marketing context and highlights its current use, risks, but also its enormous potential for companies to extent their customer reach by using such new channels, which has not been broadly established yet.
Findings: Key findings demonstrate the importance of social media engagement for companies and present respective difficulties in designing a social media strategy. Since marketers are under constant pressure to justify social media spending, measurement methods need to be established. Expressing the return on social media spending in actual numbers has so far represented major obstacle for firms.
Automotive technology is in a state of upheaval. IN the field of human machine interface (HMI), the increasing interaction between vehicles, users, and the Internet results in an increment of controls needed, which ultimately has a negative impact on usability and overall car weight. An interdisciplinary team of researchers has been developing for the past two years more intuitive and lighter in-car user interfaces through smart textiles at Reutlingen University. With the newly developed operating and feedback properties, a 1:1 demonstrator was realized and then integrated into a car driving simulator.
The textile-finishing industry, is one of the main sources of persistent organic pollutants in water; in this regard, it is necessary to develop and employ new sustainable approaches for fabric finishing and treatment. This research study shows the development of an efficient and eco-friendly procedure to form highly hydrophobic surfaces on cotton fabrics using different modified silica sols. In particular, the formation of highly hydrophobic surfaces on cotton fabrics was studied by using a two-step treatment procedure, i.e., first applying a hybrid silica sol obtained by hydrolysis and subsequent condensation of (3-Glycidyloxypropyl) trimethoxy silane with different alkyl(trialkoxy) silane under acid conditions, and then applying hydrolyzed hexadecyltrimethoxysilane on the treated fabrics to further improve the fabrics’ hydrophobicity. The treated cotton fabrics showed excellent water repellency with a water contact angle above 150◦ under optimum treatment conditions. The cooperative action of rough surface structure due to the silica sol nanoparticles and the low surface energy caused by long-chain alkyl(trialkoxy)silane in the nanocomposite coating, combined with the expected roughness on microscale due to the fabrics and fiber structure, provided the treated cotton fabrics with excellent, almost super, hydrophobicity and water-based stain resistance in an eco-sustainable way.
Flame-retardant finishing of cotton fabrics using DOPO functionalized alkoxy- and amido alkoxysilane
(2023)
In the present study, DOPO-based alkoxysilane (DOPO-ETES) and amido alkoxysilane (DOPO-AmdPTES) were synthesized by one-step and without by-products as halogen-free flame retardants. The flame retardants were applied on cotton fabric utilizing sol–gel method and pad-dry-cure finishing process. The flame retardancy, the thermal stability and the combustion ehaviour of treated cotton were evaluated by surface and bottom edge ignition flame test (according to EN ISO 15025), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and micro-scale combustion calorimeter (MCC). Unlike CO/DOPO-ETES sample, cotton treated with DOPO-AmdPTES nanosols exhibits self-extinguishing ehaviour with high char residue, an improvement of the LOI value and a significant reduction of the PHRR, HRC and THR compared to pristine cotton. Cotton finished with DOPO-AmdPTES reveals a semi-durability after ten laundering cycles keeping the flame-retardant properties unchanged. According to the results obtained from TGA-FTIR, Py-GC/MS and XPS, the major activity of flame retardant occurs in the condensed phase via catalytic induced char formation as physical barrier along with the activity in the gas phase derived mainly from the dilution effect. The early degradation of CO/DOPO-AmdPTES compared to CO/DOPO-ETES, triggered by the cleavage of the weak bond between P and C=O, as the DFT study indicated, provides the beneficial effect of this flame retardant on the fire resistance of cellulose.
The sol-gel approach offers a new class of flame retardants with a high potential for textile applications. Pure inorganic sol-gel systems do, however, typically not provide an effect sufficient for a sel-fextinguishing behavior on its own. We therefore employed compounds with nitrogen and phosphorous containing groups. Especially the combination of compounds with both elements, using the synergism, is promising for the aim to find well-applicable, environmental friendly, halogen-free flame retardants. In our approach, the sol-gel network ensured on the one hand the link to the textile as nonflammable binder. On the other hand, the sol-gel-based networks modified with functional groups containing nitrogen groups provided flame retardancy. In this way, a flame retardant finishing for textiles could be obtained by simple finishing techniques as, e.g., padding. Besides a characterization with various flame tests (e.g., according to EN ISO 15025 e protective clothing), we used a combination of cone calorimetry, thermogravimetry coupled with infrared spectroscopy analysis and scanning electron microscopy to analyze the mechanism of flame retardancy. Thus, we could show that the main mechanism is based on the formation of a protection layer. This work provides a model system for sol-gel-based flame retardants and has the potential to show the principle feasibility of the sol-gel approach in flame retardancy of textiles. It therefore lays the groundwork for tailoring sol-gel layers from newly synthesized sol-gel precursors containing nitrogen and phosphorous groups.
Soft, mechanically compliant robots are developed to safely interact with a “human environment”. The use of textiles and fibrous (composite-) materials for the fabrication of robots opens up new possibilities for “softness/compliance” and safety in human-robot interaction. Besides external motion monitoring systems, textiles allow on-board monitoring and early prediction, or detection, of robot-human contact. The use of soft fibers and textiles for robot skins can increase the acceptance of robots in human surroundings. Novel topology optimization tools, materials, processing technologies and biomimetic engineering allow developing ultra-light-weight, multifunctional, and adaptive structures.
Fashion show films
(2020)
Due to technological developments, fashion show films provide fashion brands the opportunity to communicate their brand concepts, to attract attention and to gain more brand awareness by publishing them in the Internet. The purpose of this research paper is to investigate how fashion brands communicate their brand concept and personality through fashion show films. For this purpose, ten fashion show films of brands from the categories luxury, premium, high-street and active wear are investigated. The results indicate that the investigated brands use different ways to attract attention and to communicate their brand concept and personality. The design of the setting, the presentation of the collection as well as the visualization of the brand concept through the brand name, logo, colors or symbols and camera work play an important role to create an effective and exciting fashion show film in order to communicate the brand concept and to promote their brand image. Mostly luxury and premium brands use fashion show films for branding. For high-street and active wear brands the analysis indicates less importance of fashion show films. The limitations of this research are related to the fact that the restricted number of ten fashion show films is analyzed. This gives an overview but cannot provide a comprehensive breakdown of this topic.
Based on new ways of watching series via streaming platforms and a change of buying behavior, advertising needs to focus on new strategies. Branded entertainment gives brands the opportunity to deeper integrate their product placements into television show plots. Through a managerial perspective this increases the advertising effectiveness. The serial ‘Sex and the City’ exemplifies successful branded entertainment and shows how series influence fashion nowadays. The placements are outstanding when it comes to storytelling around the brand or product, setting trends and creating a character connection plus a desire through identification. This chapter shows success factors and chances of placements for the fashion industry.
Knowing your customer, i.e. your target market, is critical for the success of a company and its’ products. The current socio-demographic changes in the United States issue new challenges to marketers and practitioners. Actual fashion consumer seg-mentation approaches within the United States have received little attention in media and scholarly literature. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to present the existing academic literature addressing fashion consumer style preferences, particularly highlighting the most promising consumer groups within the United States: Hispanics and African-Americans. For this, a literature review was chosen with a subsequent critical discussion and comparison of both segments including findings of academic researches as well as market research agencies and actual lifestyle clustering approaches regarding these consumer groups. The findings show, whilst the published literature on consumer segmentation in the apparel industry provides only a surficial understanding of the fashion buying behaviors of Hispanics and Black Americans, it could be found that both ethnic groups are highly interested in fashion, price sensitive, and they are over indexed in apparel spending habits. Especially within the Hispanic population factors such as age and level of acculturation play a vital role in the purchasing choice of apparel, footwear and accessories and require further research.
A case study with four German fashion retail brands was conducted in order to measure the performance of their Omnichannel services. In detail, their Click & Collect service was analyzed. Click & Collect is one of the first introduced Omnichannel services in fashion retailing. Omnichannel services integrate different sales and communication channels providing a seamless customer journey experience. Offline, online, and mobile app customer experiences should provide a seamless customer experience. Omnichannel performance of the four retailers Decathlon, Hunkemöller, Massimo Dutti and Galeria Kaufhof was measured via mystery shopping. A seamless customer journey experience is not yet a standard in German fashion retailing. The four companies differ in many process details. The biggest market potential and the recommendation for further research emerges in deficits of the offline store Omnichannel customer experience. Here, all four case companies have room to improve. Best overall results regarding the integration of offline, online and mobile shops were found with Hunkemöller, followed by Decathlon, Massimo Dutti, and Galeria Kaufhof.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to describe and discuss the current state of fashion business academic education worldwide. This is motivated by the wish to develop recommendations for the fashion business bachelor program of Reutlingen Uni versity.
Design/methodology/approach: This paper is based on a systematic review of relevant fashion business academic programs. A qualitative comparison is conducted through a categorization of the programs’ content and a score system evaluating the programs’ concepts.
Findings: Key findings were that several factors ensure successful fashion business education: Industry connections, international networks, project-based work, personalized career services and innovative approaches in teaching that include all steps along the fashion value chain.
Research limitations/implications: The research was primarily limited due to the limited number of schools assessed. As a result of the restricted time frame, those schools that were presented could only be analyzed regarding a few aspects. Future research should focus on a more in-depth analysis and further-reaching comparisons, e.g. comparisons with teaching concepts outside the fashion business area or with requirements by fashion companies.
Purpose of the present research paper is to examine the current state of research, define dimensions of research and reveal gaps in research on the topic of ‘Fashion and music’. To do so, the methodology of a scientific literature review was applied. The literature review revealed that music and its business mainly serve the fashion industry as influencer on trends, image building marketing tool, support of fashion processes and contributor to the development of innovative fashion products. Both industries provide identify-forming features, unify their mutual target groups in a certain lifestyle and thus enlarge their own target market. This results in increased brand awareness, image and credibility, emotionalized brand experience, differentiation and sophisticated brand identity. The present paper can serve as the basis for further research. It is limited by the time, depth and availability of data collection, the predominance of grey literature and its focus on the modern relationship of fashion and music.
This book aims to explore various aspects of the use of moving images in fashion retail and fashion apparel companies in-store or online. The use of moving images is growing in numbers and in relevance for consumers. Films can be used in various forms by fashion businesses in traditional media like cinema or TV and in modern forms like in social media or moving images in high street stores.
The book provides a data-oriented analysis of the state-of-the-art with certain future outlooks. Additional areas of covering fashion in moving images, such as ‘fashion company identity films’ or ‘fashion and music videos’ are covered in order to get a more complete analysis from a consumer influenced perspective.
This chapter discusses German television as a platform for fashion content and, in that context, streaming services as possible alternatives. Three German television channels were surveilled over the period of one month, as well as the two most popular streaming services in Germany and the online media library of one German television channel over six months, regarding length, fashion connection, transmission time and success. Additionally, for three channels fashion advertisement was analyzed. Broadcasting the most contributions with fashion connection in one month, VOX was the channel being the most fashionable. Aiming to entertain, informative contributions about fashion in television build a minority. Streaming services offer more flexibility, which the user is asking for. All three television stations show fashion brand spots during prime-time. Especially ProSieben and sixx are in close cooperation with several fashion brands. Therefore, fashion advertising seems to be preferably inserted in fashion related series.
Fashion & music
(2018)
This book will broaden readers’ understanding of the links between the music and fashion industries. It highlights the challenges currently facing the fashion industry in terms of hyper-competition, definition of ever faster trends, changing consumer demands etc. In fact, the fashion industry is heavily influenced by the digital revolution in the music industry, which has changed the face of individual music consumption and social reference, and therefore, also has impacts on fashion consumption and social reference. This understanding is crucial in order to realign any fashion company’s strategies to the demands of modern fashion consumers. In terms of content, the book first discusses the social perspective of fashion and music. This includes an analysis of music as a key influencer of fashion trends, both theoretically and on the basis of a case study on grunge music. Then the role of music in the fashion business is addressed, and covers in-store music and the role of music in fashion communication. Following up, the role of fashion in the music business is analyzed. This includes the trend of co-design of fashion collections, music artists’ role of differentiation by style, and the market for music fashion merchandise articles (both theoretically and drawing on a case study). In closing, potential lessons learned from the music industry are developed for the fashion industry. This includes an analysis of the digital revolution and the advent of the crowdfunding idea (both theoretically and in a case study).
After definition and the history of podcasts, in this book the role of podcasts in the communication strategy is mapped out. Podcast production, podcast types, podcast structures, and podcast advertising are explained. Podcast audiences and podcast in the fashion industry are introduced.
In a thorough explorative analysis, a general exploration of the podcast offering of the fashion sector was conducted. Then a selected podcast analysis with evaluation and conclusion, including a discussion of the future use of podcasts closes this book.
An event film is a successful marketing and communication instrument, which can be used from companies along social media. By reaching the target group and potential customers, companies could benefit from increasing brand awareness. It is striking that there is a lack of information about how event films are used in regard to showing fashion. To establish the subject further, the purpose of this paper is to enrich the existing findings and analyze the influence event films have. In an empirical study, the performance of two events and the two related fast fashion retailers H&M and Zara on Instagram and YouTube regarding event and fashion connected films is analyzed. Identified stylistic elements of event fashion are searched and found in their online shops. Since emotions are especially well transferred through event films, there is an indication that they contribute to the shaping of fashion trends.
When wearing compressive garments, the tissue of the human body is altered in relation to its natural shape by the properties of the applied material and by the pattern construction used.
To check the fit of garments, both construction and selected materials can be virtually simulated in 3D on avatars in corresponding CAD programs before fabrication.
The software Blender allows the modelling of an avatar and to generate in respective to the different tissue zones with their specific properties to adjust them with soft body physics according to the testing of real soft tissue but the models in Blender are mainly using linear springs.
In recent years, the demand for accurate and efficient 3D body scanning technologies has increased, driven by the growing interest in personalised textile development and health care. This position paper presents the implementation of a novel 3D body scanner that integrates multiple RGB cameras and image stitching techniques to generate detailed point clouds and 3D mesh models. Our system significantly enhances the scanning process, achieving higher resolution and fidelity while reducing the cost, time and effort required for data acquisition and processing. Furthermore, we evaluate the potential use cases and applications of our 3D body scanner, focusing on the textile technology and health sectors. In textile development, the 3D scanner contributes to bespoke clothing production, allowing designers to construct made-to-measure garments, thus minimising waste and enhancing customer satisfaction through fitting clothing. In mental health care, the 3D body scanner can be employed as a tool for body image analysis, providing valuable insights into the psychological and emotional aspects of self-perception. By exploring the synergy between the 3D body scanner and these fields, we aim to foster interdisciplinary collaborations that drive advancements in personalisation, sustainability, and well-being.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to elaborate if video marketing enhance emotional involvement. Therefore a literature research is done in two parts. Firstly there is a review on the development of marketing communication and video marketing. In the second part of the review the focus is set on emotions itself, how emotional involvement is generated and how emotions influence consumption behavior.
Findings: The key finding of this paper is that videos can enhance emotions through their multi-sensory character in an efficient way. Furthermore there could be identified that especially viral videos create emotional enhancement and meet the direct marketing approach.