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Henning Eichinger beschäftigt sich seit dem Jahr 2000 in seiner künstlerischen Arbeit mit den scheinbaren Gegensätzen von Kunst und Wissenschaft. Als Gewinner des Kunstpreises des Fabry-Museums im Jahre 2000 stieß er auf den berühmten Wundarzt und Begründer der modernen Chirurgie in Deutschland, Wilhelm Fabry, der im Jahr 1560 in Hilden geboren wurde. In Fabrys Überzeugung, dass der Mediziner sowohl aufmerksam beobachten als auch handwerklich geschickt sein müsse, sah Eichinger eine Parallele zum künstlerischen Arbeiten. "Diese Gemeinsamkeiten haben mich dazu bewegt, die vergangene Welt des Arztes Fabry im Kontext zeitgenössischer Kunst zu betrachten und zu visualisieren", erklärt Eichinger.
In seinen künstlerischen Arbeiten thematisiert Eichinger Fragen wie: Ist unser Körper nicht längst zum Objekt, ja zum Accessoire geworden, welches wir mit viel Geld und medizinischem Aufwand verändern können? Wer liefert die Vorgaben für die ästhetische Veränderung des menschlichen Körpers? Und was ist mit der Einheit von Körper und Geist?
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyze the importance of word-of-mouth for fashion companies and to answer the research questions if fashion companies should integrate their customers actively in their marketing communication and if so, how can they approach the conversion of their customers into promoters?
Findings: The integraton of the customer into the marketing mix is inevitable in today's marketplace. Customers are heavily influencing the fashion industry escpecially the transmission of trends. Thereof, a redefinition and proactive integration of the customer as promoter is necessary.
Sesam öffne Dich
(2017)
Aus ähnlichen Beweggründen, die Ferdinand von Steinbeis im Großen verfolgte, ist es den Bemühungen des Textilfachlehrers Reichelt und dem damaligen Prof. Stängle zu verdanken, dass gegen Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts an der in der Zwischenzeit zum Technikum für Textilindustrie avancierten Reutlinger Textilanstalt eine reichhaltige Sammlung von Modellen und Gewebemustern eingerichtet und aufgebaut wurde. Den Schwerpunkt der aus über 500000 Mustern und Gewebefragmenten bestehenden Kollektion bilden europäische Jacquard-Gewebe und engliche Anzugsstoffe aus dem 19. Jahrhundert. Das Glanzstück der Reutlinger Gewebesammlung bilden ... etwa 900 altjapanische Gewebefragmente aus der Zeit von 1530 bis 1880 ...
The desire to combine advanced user friendly interfaces with a product personality communicating environmental friendliness to customers poses new challenges for car interior designers, as little research has been carried out in this field to date. In this paper, the creation of three personas aimed at defining key German car users with pro environmental behaviour is presented. After collecting ethnographic data of potential drivers through literature review, information about generation and Euro car segment led to the definition of three key user groups. The resulting personas were applied to determine the most important interaction points in car interior. Finally, present design cues of eco-friendly product personality developed in the field of automotive design were explored. Our work presents three strategic directions for the design development of future in-car user interfaces named as a) foster multimodal mobility; b) emphasize the interlinkage economy - sustainable driving; and c) highlight new technological developments. The presented results are meant as an impulse for developers to fit the needs of green customers and drivers when designing user-friendly HMI components.
Collaborative apparel consumption is proposed as more sustainable alternative to conventional consumption. The purpose of this study is the exploration of consumers’ motives to participate in collaborative apparel consumption. Findings suggest that consumers’ intention to participate in collaborative apparel consumption is mainly influenced by financial benefits, convenience and sustainability awareness.
In a globalized world the importance of a proper segmentation method for identifying target consumers has been increasing. Vast majority of the research in this area focuses on the usage or development of different techniques. Lifestyle is a good criterion for dividing people into groups which then can be better targeted. This article addresses the research question, which classical methods exist to segment markets with the aid of lifestyle. The purpose of this paper is to illustrate several instruments, such as A.I.O., Roper Consumer Styles, VALS-Method, the Sinus-Milieus, Sigma-Milieus, RISC-Method and Semiometrie but also Discriminant and Conjoint Analysis which proved of value in the past. Furthermore it deals with the benefits of this methods but weaknesses are also considered. Therefore several existing literature is examined, and information is collected by institutes providing the typologies. Obvious is, that new methods e.g. predictive analytics already play a major role in marketing, because it can be found much literature about it. In the literature research also appear research implications, because besides the provided information from institutes and journals, there is hardly no data to find if and how companies use the instruments. Furthermore, some important databases cannot be scanned because they are not accessible without paying.
Bodenbeläge aus Feinsteinzeug und Naturstein werden poliert und zur Gewährleistung ausreichender Rutschfestigkeit im Innenbereich (Bewertungsgruppe der Rutschsicherheit R9 und R10) werden durch Laserbehandlung mikroskopischen Vertiefungen erzeugt. In Laborversuchen wurden bei einigen Materialien deutliche Vorteile bzgl. des Anschmutzverhaltens und Reinigung festgestellt. Es sollte untersucht werden, inwieweit dadurch in der Praxis tatsächlich eine Reduktion des Reinigungsaufwandes und der damit verbundenen Umweltbelastung möglich ist, im Gegensatz zu anderen Oberflächenbearbeitungen, die die Bewertungsgruppe "R9" erzielen. Die Oberflächenbehandlung und die damit verbundene Reinigung sollten optimiert werden hinsichtlich minimalem Aufwand und minimalem Einsatz von Reinigungsmittel für Unterhaltsreinigung und der dazugehörigen Grundreinigungs- und Zwischenreinigungsfrequenz. Ziel war eine Reduktion um bis zum Faktor 2. Dazu sollten für verschiedene typische und weit gebräuchliche Bodenplatten aus Feinsteinzeug und Naturstein Abstand und Größe der Vertiefungen optimiert und kontrolliert werden. Die Dosierungen der Reinigungsmittel sollten, ausgehend von der derzeitigen Herstellervorgabe, reduziert werden. Die Abstände zwischen den Grundreinigungen, die mit einer starken Umweltbelastung verbunden sind, sollten vergrößert werden. Begleitend sollte eine Methode für die Vorhersage und Messung der Verschmutzung entwickelt werden. Diese wird in der Entwicklung benutzt und soll nach dem Projekt für die Optimierungen an anderen Materialien, z. B. PVC oder Polyolefinböden nutzbar sein und auch als Vorarbeit für eine Zertifizierung der Böden nach LEED dienen. Bislang gab es zwar Hinweise für die Vorteile bzgl. Reinigung, die aber weder optimiert noch belegbar waren. Deshalb hatte sich dieses Verfahren noch nicht durchgesetzt. Der Marktanteil liegt bei Naturstein < 10%, im Bereich Feinsteinzeug weit niedriger.
Im Rahmen des Forschungsprojektes wurden Ausrüstungsmittel und -verfahren entwickelt, die dem vorbeugenden Schutz von Textilien (insbesondere Bodenbelägen) vor Anschmutzung dienen. Das Verfahren sieht eine kombinierte Ausrüstung von Textilien mit fluorierten Polymeren mit inkorporierten Nanopartikeln (in erster Linie: SiO2) zur Erhöhung der Rauhigkeit vor. Es wurden kommerziell erhältliche Hydrophobiermittel (Fluorcarbon- oder Kohlenwasserstoff-basierte Polymere) in Kombination mit SiO2-Nanopartikeln auf Teppiche aufgebracht und hinsichtlich eines Anschmutzens - z.B. durch Kaffee, KoolAid, Rotwein, AATCC Standard Soil, schwarze Schuhcreme - untersucht. Hierzu wurden die scherempfindlichen Dispersionen der Hydrophobiermittel mit neu entwickelten angepassten Dispersionen von SiO2-Nanopartikel versetzt. Die SiO2-Nanopartikel wurden mit systematisch variierten Größen von 10-1.000 nm synthetisiert, umfassend charakterisiert und mit Hilfe von neu entwickelten Fluormethacrylat-Copolymeren mit reaktiven Gruppen (Maleinsäure-, Itaconsäure- oder Citraconsäureanhydrid) und hydrophilen Modifiern (Alkohol- oder Amingruppen) stabilisiert. Die resultierenden Polymer-Teilchen-Dispersionen konnten aus wässrigen oder ethanolisch-wässrigen Lösungen auf Textilien (PA-, PES- oder WO-Teppiche und -Gewebe) appliziert werden. Weiterhin wurden auch die neu entwickelten Fluorcarbon-Polymere hinsichtlich ihrer Anwendung getestet. In Anschmutzungsversuchen wiesen die so ausgerüsteten Teppiche ein geringeres Anschmutzen durch Standardschmutz als Referenzmaterialien auf. Die Beständigkeit der Ausrüstung bei mechanischer Belastung konnte durch Vernetzung der Polymere auf dem Textilmaterial verbessert werden. Für PA 6- und PA 6.6-Teppiche wurden die besten Ergebnisse hinsichtlich eines geringeren Anschmutzens durch wasserlösliche Verschmutzungen (Kaffee, Rotwein, KoolAid) im Vergleich zu unbehandelten Teppichen ermittelt, wenn die Ausrüstung mit Fluorpolymer-stabilisierten SiO2-Nanopartikeln oder mit einer kombinierten Dispersion aus SiO2-Partikeln und Fluorcarbonharzen vorgenommen wurde. Eine im Vergleich zu unbehandelten Teppichen weniger starke Anschmutzung durch AATCC Standard Soil (DIN EN ISO 11378-2) wurde für mit SiO2-Partikeln behandelte PA 6-Teppiche ermittelt. Hydrophobe Anschmutzungen (z.B. schwarze Schuhcreme) konnten von mit Fluorcarbon-Polymeren ausgerüsteten Teppichen am besten entfernt werden. Die Kombination von SiO2-Partikeln mit Fluorcarbon-Polymeren erwies sich meist als günstiger als die alleinige Behandlung mit Fluorcarbonharzen. Ein Zusammenhang zwischen der Größe der Nanopartikel, der Abrasionsbeständigkeit und den Reinigungseigenschaften wurde festgestellt, und es konnte gezeigt werden, dass FC-Nanopartikel-Composites diese verbessern. Die mechanische Beständigkeit der Antischmutzausrüstung mit SiO2-Nanopartikeln und Fluorcarbon-Polymeren auf Polyamidteppichen wurde z.B. durch Hexapod-Trommelbeanspruchung (nach ISO 10361) geprüft. Durch REM, IR-Spektroskopie und den Wassertropfentest wurde nach 4.000 und auch nach 12.000 Touren noch eine intakte Beschichtung nachgewiesen. Mit Vernetzern, die das Polymer selbst, das Polymer mit Partikeln und/oder der Substratoberfläche vernetzen, konnte z.T. die Abrasionsbeständigkeit verbessert werden (hier müssen ggf. optimalere Vernetzer gesucht werden).
Das textile Bauen ist ein seit vielen Jahren wachsender Bereich der Textilindustrie. Durch die Verwendung textiler Materialien bieten sich nicht zuletzt für die Architektur neue gestalterische Möglichkeiten, die mit konventionellen Baumaterialien nicht realisierbar sind. Bekannte Beispiele für textile Bauwerke sind große Sportarenen, Bahnhöfe und Flughäfen. Dabei sind Leichtbauweisen und zumindest teilweise Transparenz der Bauwerke auf einer Seite herausragende Eigenschaften, auf der anderen Seite stellen diese Gebäude besondere Anforderungen an das Klima- und Energiemanagement. Der Innenraum kann sich bei Sonneneinstrahlung stark aufheizen, da neben dem sichtbaren Licht vor allem ein Großteil des Infrarotanteils der solaren Strahlung transmittieren kann. Im konventionellen Bauen existieren bereits hohe Anforderungen an die energietechnische Ausgestaltung von Bauwerken, die u.a. über eine effiziente Wärmedämmung erfüllt werden. Dies wird in der Regel mit Hilfe von voluminösen, offenporigen Dämmstoffen erreicht. Ziel ist es dabei vornehmlich, den Verlust von Wärme aus dem Innenraum zu verringern, gleichzeitig können schlecht wärmeleitende Stoffe bei hoher Masse und hoher spezifischer Wärmekapazität Temperaturspitzen im Sommer abpuffern. Auch für das textile Bauen ist die Energieeffizienz ein wichtiger Aspekt. Die Verwendung von schweren Dämmstoffen widerspricht dabei aber der Idee der flexiblen textilen Leichtbauweise.
Several ionic liquids are excellent solvents for cellulose. Starting from that finishing of PET fabrics with cellulose dissolved in ionic liquids like 1-ethyl 3-methyl imidazolium acetate, diethylphosphate and chloride, or the chloride of butyl-methyl imidazolium has been investigated. Finishing has been carried out from solutions of different concentrations, using microcrystalline cellulose or cotton and by employing different cross-linkers. Viscosity of solutions has been investigated for different ionic liquids,concentrations, cellulose sources, linkers and temperatures. Since ionic liquids exhibit no vapor pressure,simple pad-dry-cure processes are excluded. Before drying the ionic liquid has to be removed by a rinsing step. Accordingly rinsing with fresh ionic liquid followed by water or the direct rinsing with waterhave been tested. The amount of cellulose deposited has been investigated by gravimetry, zinc chlorideiodine test as well as reactive dyeing. Results concerning wettability, water up-take, surface resistance,wear-resistance or washing stability are presented.
Three established test methods employed for evaluating the abrasion or wear resistance of textile materials were compared to gain deeper insight into the specific damaging mechanisms to better understand a possible comparability of the results of the different tests. The knowledge of these mechanisms is necessary for a systematic development of finishing agents improving the wear resistance of textiles. Martindale, Schopper, and Einlehner tests were used to analyze two different fabrics made of natural (cotton) or synthetic (polyethylene terephthalate) fibers, respectively. Samples were investigated by digital microscopy and scanning electron microscopy to visualize the damage. Damage symptoms are compared and discussed with respect to differences in the damaging mechanisms.
Textil im Verbund ist besser? Das ist in der Fachwelt lange keine Frage mehr, textile Verbundwerkstoffe können viele Vorteile bieten. Es ist wohl bekannt, dass sie oft besser sind als nicht-textile Alternativen. Die Beispiele sind mannigfaltig. Innovative Entwicklungen sind nicht nur der stark beachtete Textilbeton, der mit dem Deutschen Zukunftspreis ausgezeichnet wurde, sondern auch viele vielleicht weniger wahrgenommene oder spektakuläre Produkte auf Basis faserverstärkter Kunststoffe.
Are textile structures better? In the professional world, there is no doubt that textile composites can offer many advantages. It is well known that they are often better than non-textile alternatives. There are manifold examples. Innovative developments are not only the popular textile reinforced concrete which was awarded with the Deutscher Zukunftspreis (German Future Award) but also a huge number of probably less perceived or spectacular products based on fiber-reinforced plastics.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to find out the influences of sustainability labels on fashion buying behaviour. Despite key information about Fair Trade is provided in all stores of the sample company, customers seem not to be aware of the Fair Trade concept. Therefore this paper aims to give recommendations for a fashion retailer in terms of elucidation about Fair Trade by answering the following research questions: Which influences do sustainability labels wield on customer´s buying behaviour? Are consumers of textile products aware of the function and backgrounds of the Fair Trade label?
Design/methodology/approach: A paper-based questionnaire was administered to 128 customers of a German fashion retailer "Adler Modemärkte AG" in four city stores from which 127 were correctly completed. Additionally an adjusted self-completion questionnaire administered to 50.000 customers online from which a total of 1.712 were correctly completed. Descriptive analysis and cross tabulations were applied to abstract the main research findings and evaluate the hypotheses.
Findings: Key findings suggest that Adler should either enhance their communication strategy regarding Fair Trade or remove Fair Trade products from the assortment, as the majority of respondents are not aware of Adlers´ Fair Trade products. The Fair Trade label could neither be identified as consumer-barrier nor sales support. Further findings revealed participants have more knowledge about Fair Trade than initially assumed.
Research limitations/implications: Majorly women aged between 56 and 75 participated in the survey. Findings are limited to geography, the target group of the fashion retailer Adler, gender, age group and the research method questionnaire.
The purpose of this paper is to illustrate the communication of sustainability of fashion retailers via their websites with a focus on the involvement of the consumer and the varying communication processes, based on the sender-receiver model. For the empirical study, 10 fashion retailers were analyzed in terms of their communication of sustainability via their websites, with a focus on the consumer involvement. The results of empirical study were applied to the theoretical communication process model and illustrate the varying communication processes among the ten fashion retailers. The communication of sustainability via the Fashion retailer´s websites varied strongly. Only one fashion retailer communicated environmental- and social as well as all consumer-related aspects. As a result, the loop of the communication process has only been closed for one fashion retailer. Accordingly, these findings confirm that there is a need for fashion retailers to inform consumers in a holistic way about sustainability, especially in terms of sustainable fashion consumption when communicating sustainability via websites.
Customer needs and requirements are getting increasingly diverse and consumers more and more want to express their individuality with the products they buy. Due to the emergence of the internet and possibilities given, customers no longer only play a passive role, but are actually enabled to determine what they are purchasing. Therefore customisation or personlisation approaches like the miadidas concept from adidas, providing customised performance shoes or sneakers are more popular than ever. The prosumer concept already plays an important role trying to satisfy the demands of customers in future. As apparel for outdoor activities represents the largest and most important part of the sports good market in Germany and is yet still expected to grow, the purpose of this study is, on the one hand to identify diverse prosumer concepts existing and on the other hand to examine to what extent companies of the outdoor industry already have implemented prosumer concepts. A content analysis of homepages and online shops of 30 different European and North American outdoor brands was conducted. Results show, that companies of the outdoor industry have already implemented several prosumer concepts, but most of them are mainly concentrating on one prosumer approach and the involvement of professional users of their products.
The purpose of this paper is to review, compare and contrast the body of published literature regarding consumer related emotions in fashion shopping behavior. This paper analyses 39 academic articles which focus on emotions in fashion shopping behavior between 2000 and 2013. Therefore articles which examine the influence of environmental stimuli in a retail setting as well as articles which focus on the impact of factors affecting individuals especially in shopping for fashion were analysed. Most of the articles are based on the SOR paradigm. A larger focus is recently placed on the research of emotions and consumers’ behavior in online fashion environments. The influence of stimuli, occurring in endogenous and exogenous ways, on consumers’ emotion and resulting behavior could be confirmed in most studies. However the determination of addressed emotions is already widely researched, the impact on consumers’ shopping behavior has to be analysed more detailed.
Case study: EMP
(2018)
The purpose of this research paper is to investigate the business model of the retailer EMP. The in-depth literature review develops the relevance of merchandising for the rock and heavy metal scene and the relevance of EMP within that market. Literature about existing approaches of multi-channelling has been reviewed. Based on this theoretical framework, a case study of EMP has been drafted. Findings are discussed, focusing on the performance of EMP as a multi-channel and lifestyle retailer and additionally provide valuable managerial implications for fashion retailers. Implications for further research address lifestyle retailers to contribute to the findings or validate them with different examples. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholar literature concerning EMP in particular. Hence, magazines, journals and information provided by the company serve as reference. Even though EMP provided some information, gathering any information about how EMP manages multi channelling operationally was not possible.
Einkaufsverhalten in Warenhäusern in Deutschland und USA : Zusammenfassung der Studienergebnisse
(2014)
Die Studie "Einkaufsverhalten in Warenhäusern in Deutschland und USA" unter der Leitung von Prof. Dr. Jochen Strähle (39), International Fashion Management, Hochschule Reutlingen, untersucht die Unterschiede im digitalen Nutzungsverhalten von Warenhauskunden in Deutschland und den USA. In einer Befragung wurden im Jahr 2013 Stationärkäufer in Deutschland und in den USA befragt. Es zeigte ich, dass die amerikanischen Kunden digitale Medien deutlich stärker für ihren Kauf im Warenhaus einsetzen als die deutschen. Signifikante Unterscheide zeigen sich in der Art und Weise des Informationsverhaltens. Deutsche Kunden informieren sich deutlich weniger im Vorfeld über die Produkte als amerikanische Kunden. So gaben über 70 Prozent der Deutschen an, dass sie sich nie oder selten vorab informierten. Bei den Amerikanern informierte sich knapp die Hälfte bereits vorher über die Produkte. Amerikaner nutzen dabei stärker mobile Quellen als Deutsche. So nutzen nur 15 Prozent ihr Smartphone häufig zur Vorabinformationen, wohingegen dies bei mehr als 28 Prozent der Amerikaner der Fall ist. Während in Deutschland noch knapp ein Fünftel gelegentlich bis häufig einen Katalog zur Hand nehmen, nutzt in Amerika nur noch jeder zehnte ein Printkatalog zur Informationssuche. Knapp 30 Prozent der Amerikaner prüfen die Verfügbarkeit der Ware vorab. In Deutschland hingegen sind es nur knapp 15 Prozent.
Co-design and endorsement
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to determine the success factors regarding celebrities of the music business involved in fashion advertising. That famous people have the power to help brands and products to stand out among others is proven and popular. This paper is concentrating on successful musicians and their endorsements of fashion brands and examines the benefits for both, the brand and the artist. It investigates how consumer perceives brand and artist collaboration and what factors enhance the purchase intention and increase sales. This paper is structured in the following manner: The introduction presents the research question and sets the aim for the paper, followed by the analysis of the existing literature. The paper ends with conclusions, limitations and suggestions for further research.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the potential of a fashion fTRACE (ffTRACE) application that gives transparent insight on the supply chain of a fashion item. The research methodology applied to this purpose is a literature review examining academic references. The key findings of this paper are that information plays a major role in the consumer decision process and is therefore beneficial to the demand for sustainable products. Given the right information content in a transparent, credible and understandable way is important. It is found that the functions of such an application would be able to satisfy this consumer demand and therefore has the potential to raise the sales of a sustainable company as well as increase the brand’s awareness and improve its image. While mainly indicating the potentials of the ffTRACE application, their relevance is not examined in this paper.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the use of sustainable closed-loop supply chain of the fashion brand Filippa K. Information on green fashion has been gathered and a case study approach on the fashion retailer
Filippa K conducted. Results show a switch in knowledge content between a fast fashion supply chain and a sustainable supply chain. Also there is an evolution in sustainability as companies, retailers, and manufactures suffer under pressure from the customers, governments, and the media. Sustainable fashion brands like Filippa K are interested in sharing precise knowledge on variety of aspects linked to the sustainable closed-loop supply chain. This research paper has been limited by less information and unexplored topics in the theme green fashion. This led to the personal critical disputation with the brand Filippa K.
Aim of this paper is to provide an understanding to which extent music and fashion interdepend and interact referring to the music and fashion trend development, focusing the period from 1950 till today. It further helps the reader to gain an insight if the technology provided influences the development and the access of music and fashion in future. The research for this paper required the use of secondary sources including library and online research. The goal was to gather information about the former and current development of music and fashion. These methods were the best alternatives of secondary sources as they provided trusted results thus enhancing the accuracy of the data being collected. But however they were also limited since mainly data for the fashion and music development of the noughties were limited. This is explainable by the key finding that the development of this time is not as distinct as the one of the former times, when a fashion trend came along with a new music genre or hit, which implies that fashion and music correlate to a certain extent, but characterized by a reactivation of the music and fashion trends of previous times without any new inventions.
Das Ziel dieses Papiers ist es zu verstehen, inwieweit Musik und Mode voneinander abhängig und miteinander interagieren, wobei der Schwerpunkt auf der Entwicklung von Musik- und Modetrends im Zeitraum von 1950 bis heute liegt. Darüber hinaus soll dem Leser ein Einblick darin ermöglicht werden, ob die zur Verfügung stehende Technologie die Entwicklung und den Zugang zu Musik und Mode in Zukunft beeinflusst. Die Recherche für dieses Papier erforderte die Verwendung von Sekundärquellen, einschließlich Bibliotheks- und Online-Recherchen. Das Ziel war es, Informationen über die frühere und aktuelle Entwicklung von Musik und Mode zu sammeln. Diese Methoden waren die besten Alternativen zu Sekundärquellen, da sie zuverlässige Ergebnisse lieferten und so die Genauigkeit der gesammelten Daten erhöhten. Sie waren jedoch auch begrenzt, da vor allem Daten für die Mode- und Musikentwicklung der Nullerjahre begrenzt waren. Dies ist durch das Hauptergebnis erklärbar, dass die Entwicklung dieser Zeit nicht so deutlich ist wie die der früheren Zeiten, in denen ein Modetrend mit einem neuen Musikgenre oder Hit einherging, was bedeutet, dass Mode und Musik in gewissem Maße korrelieren, aber durch eine Reaktivierung der Musik- und Modetrends der Vorjahre ohne neue Erfindungen gekennzeichnet ist.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how the practice of closed-loop production systems (CLPS) is implemented in the fashion industry. This paper offers a critical literature review to present a thorough understanding of the actual status of literature. Subsequently, the paper reveals that CLPS are of great importance. Generally, such systems include different activities that have to be integrated. Critical points are the product acquisition, the recovering process itself and the remarketing to the customer. A lack of reliable data concerning CLPS in the specific case of fashion industry can be identified. Important research fields could be marketing strategies, controlling the acquisition process, evolvement of return technologies and strategies, adaption of recovered products to the mass market, and the development of new technologies concerning recovering processes.
The purpose of this paper is to explain the key aspects and growing relevance of sustainability in fashion retail and to evaluate the possibilities of fashion retailers to act sustainable in supply chain management as well as carving out the challenges they have to deal with. The research methodology applied for this purpose is a critical literature review examining books and articles. The findings demonstrate the rising importance of sustainability in fashion retail. In this regard, fashion retailers play a key role and responsibility for sustainability in the fashion supply chain, from the beginning up to the end. This paper mainly analyzes sustainability in the fashion supply chain. It does not analyze topics like second-hand shopping or social media sustainability.
Since there is no denying that transparency is increasingly central to corporate sustainability, the purpose of this paper is a case study on a company’s attempt to be fully transparent, hence, picking up the existent scholarly conversation about uncompromising supply chain transparency. Literature so far was found to be fairly limited, but, following a trend, has been rising in numbers over recent years. Addressing these shortcomings in the methodology, an in-depth literature review about the multiple dimensions of supply chain transparency has been performed and links within supply networks stressed. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the fashion label Honestby has been drafted and the effort to become the world’s first 100 % transparent company further examined. Findings are discussed whether more supply chain transparency is desirable in any case, obstacles listed and an outlook for this kind of business model has been drawn. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholarly literature concerning Honestby in particular. Out of this reason, magazines and journal entries are used as reference as well. Only with the extension of the topic itself to supply chain transparency and the literature review beforehand, the paper gained its necessary academic standard. Concerning implications, it needs to be mentioned that even though Honest by demonstrates to be fully transparent, it was not possible to find any public information about the degree of supplier relationship. In particular, concerning the applied control mechanisms used to exert influence and to balance out the power gradient between company and suppliers.
The purpose of this paper is to study the recycling form of reusing second hand clothing from a conventional fashion brand’s perspective. It should clarify which measures and activities a fashion company needs to integrate in its value chain in order to offer branded second hand merchandise in a self-operated store. The research paper relies on a desk-based research and aims to illustrate the topic by means of a descriptive approach, processing the existing literature. Key findings demonstrate that fashion brands need to integrate complete lifecycle strategies, sustainability communication, and reverse logistics structures, like take-back schemes, for offering second hand clothing. The main limitations evolve from the research design. Further, empirical evidences need to be conducted for a more fundamental understanding of the new business model.
The purpose of this paper is to identify key success factors of Crowdfunding in the Music Business in order to discuss their applicability to the Fashion Industry. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic and non-academic references. Key research findings include four main success factors. First explains the innovative and adaptive nature of the music industry caused by historical evolution. Second strong commitment and connection to the fan base is identified as success factor. Third manageable effort for the realisation on a large scale reduces the risk of a failure. And, last success factor describes the successful implementation of campaign specific aspects. The discussion finally shows that three of four success factors can be adapted to the Fashion Business. Due to little scientific research in the field of Crowdfunding in the Music Business, the success factors are worked out independently, based on general literature. Accordingly, quantitative testing and further analysis is recommended.
Impact of brand and country image on the perception of sustainability in the fashion business
(2015)
The fashion and textile industry is presently confronted to participate in the sustainability movement and society demands corporate social responsibility. Today, it is crucial for fashion companies to be able to measure, monitor and improve environmental and social performance, due to the fact that there is a heightened awareness of sustainable practices by stakeholders. The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion consumers on their sustainable perception of a fashion company. More specifically, the objective of this study is to highlight the fashion consumer`s awareness in regards to the sustainable practices of a fashion company by considering the brand and country image factors. An experimental research design was utilized for the study and the researcher surveyed 120 fashion students. The basis of the surveys within the experiment is the present sustainable practice of the fashion brand H&M. This research aims to understand, if and how fashion consumers are influenced by a fashion brand image or its souring practices, when it comes to evaluate the sustainable performance of a fashion company. Results show that participants have significantly different perceptions when considering the fashion brand image of H&M on the one hand and the sourcing countries of H&M on the other. The result of this research provides useful information about the actual state of affairs in sustainable knowledge of the consumer and the related power of a brand's image and its sourcing strategies.
This article aims to point out main changes of the music industry since the advent of the Internet and how the fashion industry can learn from it. Different factors are researched with a birds-eye perspective by conducting a literature review. The results are limited by the availability of sources and the implications are based on a theoretical foundation. For further research the conclusions drawn for the fashion industry have to be proven empirically. After reading the paper, the reader has rather an overview of the changed circumstances and how the music industry reacted than deep knowledge in each field. More specifically, this paper gives an overview of the changed circumstances due to digitalisation and how the music industry reacted within. As both the fashion and music industry have their similarities, they are limited in their comparability, since fashion products cannot be fully digitalized like a music record. The fact that the music industry had to reinvent itself rapidly to adopt new possibilities and chances results from the article. To make use of the sustainability trend and to build communities in order to include them in the creation process are the major suggestions for the fashion industry.
Purpose of the present research paper is to examine the current state of research, define dimensions of research and reveal gaps in research on the topic of ‘Fashion and music’. To do so, the methodology of a scientific literature review was applied. The literature review revealed that music and its business mainly serve the fashion industry as influencer on trends, image building marketing tool, support of fashion processes and contributor to the development of innovative fashion products. Both industries provide identify-forming features, unify their mutual target groups in a certain lifestyle and thus enlarge their own target market. This results in increased brand awareness, image and credibility, emotionalized brand experience, differentiation and sophisticated brand identity. The present paper can serve as the basis for further research. It is limited by the time, depth and availability of data collection, the predominance of grey literature and its focus on the modern relationship of fashion and music.
The purpose of this paper is to define what impacts sustainable manufacturing standards have for retail brands concerning the communication policy and to find possible solutions of how the companies can deal with them. Therefore, sustainable standards and the impacts on the internal and external communication are described. The enclosed discussion finds possible solutions for the negative impacts. A literature discussion has been conducted to investigate the purpose. Generally, there are many impacts fashion retails have to consider, if they want to transform their company to become more sustainable, because only the impacts on a defined part of the communication policy were huge. A limitation of this paper is that the proposals how retailers could deal with the impacts of the transformation of the company toward more sustainability need further research and tests until they are practicable.
The second hand concept indicates a growing trend in clothing recently, leading to growing numbers of second hand shops and developments of new second hand retail forms. This paper concentrates on the current second hand market for fashion products and presents the different motives toward second hand consumption as well as alternative consumption channels for second hand products. The findings of the paper are founded on literature research of academic articles and case studies. Results show that there is a high potential for the second hand market due to the increasing interest of consumers in buying second hand products. The paper concentrates on the second hand market for fashion products in the western society. This means that there was no research on second hand products for disadvantaged people in poor countries. Furthermore, the paper focuses the formal second hand retail channels to see what is already on the market.
Music is omnipresent and an important factor for cultural and social development. Thus, the connection between music and fashion has rarely been contemplated yet. In particular, this research paper is concerned with the connection between music and fashion communication, with special interest to its emotional background in the context of neuromarketing. The research question of how music affects the perception of a fashion brand, when regarded as emotional stimulus in the context of neuromarketing, has been investigated by researching existing literature. Without attempting to explain neurological processes to their core, this paper tries to give an overview of how music generates emotion and how this can be used for branding activities. This led to the result that music causes positive emotional response of the consumer, when used in marketing actions. Through emotional response, the perception, identity, and recall of a brand are strongly influenced.
This paper is purposed to examine the impact of grunge music on fashion and to explain how grunge music is reflected in grunge style. The research methodology applied is a case study on grunge music and grunge style. Key findings suggest that different elements of grunge music had a great impact on the evolution of grunge style: Mentality and philosophy of the movement, musical style and sound as well as lyrical concerns are incorporated by grunge style. Commercial exploitation of grunge partly led to its downfall. Moreover, the original spirit of the movement is not commonly shared by all sub-genres’ respective contemporary styles. Musicians had great impact on the evolution of grunge style and unintentional rose to style icons. The research is limited by the amount of academic literature concerning the connection between grunge music and grunge style. Therefore, journal entries and blogs are used as reference as well.
The purpose of this research paper is to find out to which extent rap music merchandise is influencing the fashion world of today. The research design is mainly created through analysing Internet sources. The key findings of this paper describe the way rap merchandise is created and distributed nowadays. Furthermore, is explained how an idea becomes trend and how rap artists influence trend creation, especially through social media channels. The topic around rap merchandising products and strategies is a very new one, thus there is barely any literature to find. Nevertheless, trend leading online music platforms and blogs offer a lot of grey literature about the research topic. In this paper, the analysis of rap merchandise and fashion is focused on clothing items to create a better understanding in which dimension the influence of rap merchandise on the fashion world is given.
The purpose of this research is to explore current boundaries of the fashion industry’s second hand market and which solutions and approaches can be adopted from the used-car industry. The paper is based on the study of existing literature which deals with sustainability in combination with second hand markets in general and adaptable features of the used-car industry. Adaptable features are found using the business model canvas. The key finding of this study indicates that the fashion industry faces immense social and environmental challenges which can be partly solved by the development of the second hand market. Used-car industry can be seen as role model for fashion retail. In this study only aspects of used-car distribution are highlighted; therefore, characteristics of the recycling of used cars are not examined.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the role of in-store music in the fashion retail environment and to describe music as an atmospheric building tool in order to influence customer behaviour with emotions created by musical compositions. As offline retailer try to differentiate their stores through shopping experiences, atmospherics like visuals, scent and sound are appropriate tools to reinforce brand image and therefore customers’ willingness to enter, explore and purchase. Music can be a powerful primary element in creating or enhancing sensory experiences of shoppers and serves as a powerful connection to emotions. Focus of the literature review lies on the emotions which are triggered though different musical characteristics and then affect the customer behaviour. The paper offers a concisely presented review and highlights crucial aspects on what role in-store music has on customers’ perception of atmosphere, emotions and behaviour.
The purpose of this paper is to examine the impact on sustainability of fashion production and consumption in order to discuss what the main lever is to reduce the negative impact. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. Key findings suggest that fashion production and consumption have a single comparable impact on sustainability. Moreover, as the fashion production follows the demand, the consumer steers the production in a certain direction. Therefore, consumers take over responsibility and need to be informed. To reach a long-term change in the fashion industry, the consumer has to be the focus of the sustainable efforts. Most results in literature were conducted by qualitative research methods, so that further quantitative testing of the results is recommended. Furthermore, most surveys were conducted with young fashion consumers in the EU or UK which does not represent the fashion consumer in general.
The purpose of this paper is to highlight potentials and limitations of the prosumer concept in fashion retail. The paper illustrates the evolution of prosumption and in which directions the concept is being developed. The primary research is based on a literature review containing different sources of academic and non-academic references. Findings suggest that the prosumer concept is no new phenomenon. Recently, it has moved into the focus of companies that have noted that it is efficient when engaging with customers in order to strengthen their brand loyalty. An increasing number of companies offer innovative business models that underlie the concept. However, lately smart prosuming machines are changing the objectives of the concept. Even if the prosumer concept exists since many years and scholars investigate its potentials continuously, it is the fashion industry that has been researched comparatively little up to now.
This study focuses on the different roles of social media for the promotion of a sustainable lifestyle, behaviour and consumption, especially with regard to the typically non-ethical fashion industry. Research findings include eight roles of social media influencing a sustainable consumption contrary to prior research naming one to five impacts. Results show that social media educates and engages the young and ethically interested target group besides increasing supply chain transparency and brand or theme awareness. Furthermore, social media provides a platform for organisations’ relationship management and social interaction since users get empowered to share experiences which leads to a higher level of trust.
The purpose of this paper is to examine the relationship between the consumers’ perception of sustainability and the application of a QR-code in stores with the focus on the information searching behavior regarding sustainable aspects. An online questionnaire was conducted with fashion students at Reutlingen University: in total, 65 students participated in the survey. Paired samples t-test and other statistical analyses were applied to test research questions. Apart from this, the research paper is based on a literature review. Furthermore, the decision was taken to use a projective method in the form of a dummy fashion fTRACE website. Key findings of the survey are that participants give sustainable aspects a higher importance with a QR-code than without one. Participants who prefer a product with detailed information experience a “positive shopping feeling” when provided with transparency via a QR-code. “Origin”, “production” and “quality” were rated of higher importance by those participants. These findings suggest that, transparency provided through the application of a QR-Code in stores influences the consumers’ perception of sustainability. Due to the small sample size of participants (65) in the study, findings of this research not generalizable to a larger population. This paper focused on the consumers’ information searching behavior regarding sustainable aspects, limiting its findings to impacts on perception of sustainability. Further research is therefore recommended.
The aim of this paper is to examine the impact of sustainability communication in the fashion industry on the customers’ behavior with a focus on consumers’ perception regarding websites with sustainability-specific content. Based on a profound literature review, a projective method in form of two dummy websites is developed. Both websites illustrate sustainability communication with comprehensive and transparent information demonstrating a credible, trustful and serious commitment. Additionally, both sites have the same structure and an appealing, visualized website design as well as a customer oriented communication. While each website consists of almost the same aspects such as Vision & Mission, Value chain, Corporate Commitment, Working Conditions, Environment, Social Commitment and documents such as a Sustainability Report and Code of Conduct, they differ enormously in the sustainability-specific content. For instance, website 1 represents a sustainable and responsible company communicating sustainable issues about eco-friendly materials, fair working conditions, ecological production and their social commitment. It further includes eco-friendly wash and care advices as seen by reformation to remember consumers to take care of the environment, e.g. to wash cold or by using ecological detergents. In contrast, website 2 does not represent a sustainable and responsible fashion brand. It also does not communicate sustainable efforts or a sustainable engagement. Rather it is about offering trendy, low-priced fast- fashion products, produced under unfair working conditions with wages and working hours as usual terms in production countries with a focus on style and design. Regarding website 2, all raw materials have been produced conventionally in developing countries and are therefore not eco-friendly, resulting in a pollution of the environment due to long transport routes. Additionally, the website voices the wish to improve the chances for developing animal protection only minimally, showing that the company is not socially committed. Although website 2 focuses on transparency and a customer-oriented communication, it is not sustainable. Both websites are tested via an online survey. A total of 90 fashion students participated in the sample.
The purpose of this paper is to evaluate consisting consumption patterns caused by fast fashion with a new appearing form of consumption and retaining potentials as an alternative as well as sustainable form of fast fashion consumption. This research is set up on a theoretical background of scientific literature including governmental as well as press releases in order to evaluate the status quo of consumption and answering the research question. A new consumption pattern as well as an appearing economy of sharing can be stated including potential aspects of raising businesses and sustainable alternative forms of fast fashion. The framework of the research is limited to the textile and fashion industry in industrialized countries focusing on consumption in the twenty first century.
The purpose of this paper is to find out how musicians are able to differentiate themselves from their competitors by using their style. Casting shows and the evolution of the contestants’ style during and after the show serve as a paradigm for creating differentiation by style. The method of research was diverse but largely drawn from research papers as well as online magazines and newspapers. Within the scope of the research, it was feasible to draw on a varied range of sources to answer the research question. In the course of this research paper, it was possible to define key factors for a musician to create differentiation by style in modern times. By examining the style of casting show contestants, it was explored to which extent they transform from rather normal people to pop stars. In reducing the detailed analysis of casting shows to three shows and contestants, only a broad overview was provided. The paper is of interest to those working for casting shows in order to develop those.
Case study: Marillion
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to highlight the use of crowdfunding,
demonstrated by a case study about the rock band Marillion. The research
methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the rock band Marillion and how they invented crowdfunding has been drafted. Findings suggest that the crowdfunding concept is no new phenomenon, since the rock band Marillion has investigated the business model. Recently, the funding method is applied to the fashion industry; hence it is efficient and engaging to finance projects by that specific business model. A limitation of this paper is that the topic of crowdfunding is new to the fashion business and needs further research and tests until they are practicable to interpret. Results show that there is a high potential for using crowdfunding in fashion by reaching a long-term change in this industry.
Due to the increasing awareness of social and environmental issues of the consumer, sustainability has become significantly important in the fashion businesses. Therefore, developing a sustainable supply chain is crucial for fashion companies to meet consumer´s consciousness. According to Bin Shen (2014), the Fast Fashion Retailer H&M is more likely to select suppliers in countries with a low score on the human wellbeing factor of the Sustainable Society Index (SSI). This paper extends the findings of Bin Shen (2014) and investigates fashion firms of different segments on their scoring at the 8 underlying categories of the SSI. This approach let the researcher assume that fashion firms of different segments which are active in sustainability are selecting their suppliers in countries with a low degree on the 8 categories of the SSI. Consequently, by utilising the SSI as a tool, the findings of this paper will be helpful to profile and compare Fashion companies of different segments in their supplier selection in regards to sustainability.
The purpose of this study is to evaluate online German fashion shopping websites from a customer perspective, based on a two-dimensional conceptual framework covering
shopping experience and shopping quality. As the research methodology, an exploratory mystery shopping approach was used in order to compare online shops. The results were as follows. First, four categories of online shops were identified: heroes, marketing winners, process winners, and underperformers. Second, three main levers for improvement were elaborated: emotionality of websites, reducing complexity, and the introduction of an industry standard of payments. From These results, it is possible to analyze and benchmark websites and to adapt online Marketing decisions as well as general management strategies for online fashion Shopping companies. The study has originality and value as it is the first time that an Evaluation of websites has combined the consumer´s perspective before the purchase and its fulfillment (e.g. delivery) after the online purchase.