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Mode & Musik
(2023)
Dieses Buch wird das Verständnis der Leser für die Verbindungen zwischen der Musik- und der Modeindustrie erweitern. Es hebt die Herausforderungen hervor, denen sich die Modeindustrie derzeit in Bezug auf den Hyperwettbewerb, die Definition immer schnellerer Trends, sich ändernde Verbraucherwünsche usw. gegenübersieht. Die Modeindustrie wird in der Tat stark von der digitalen Revolution in der Musikindustrie beeinflusst, die das Gesicht des individuellen Musikkonsums und des sozialen Bezugs verändert hat und sich daher auch auf den Modekonsum und den sozialen Bezug auswirkt. Dieses Verständnis ist von entscheidender Bedeutung, um die Strategien eines Modeunternehmens auf die Anforderungen der modernen Modekonsumenten auszurichten.
The replacement of conventional material with recyclates affects product personality, particularly regarding sustainability aspects influencing consumer behaviour. A definition of personality for products made of recyclates is missing in literature. As these products require appropriate aesthetics based on material origin to communicate the advantage concerning sustainability, there is a need for research in this regard. This paper aims to develop an adequate personality of a reusable water bottle made of ocean plastic by collecting personality traits that evoke associations related to the material's origin and sustainability. We conducted two quantitative field studies. Study 1 collected associated visual perceived attributes and context-related personality traits in order to develop and visualize a preliminary design. Study 2 evaluated the design regarding associated personality traits. The overall outcome was a product personality scale consisting of 23 items plus a concrete design recommendation for a water bottle made of recycled ocean plastic. The assessment of degree of sustainability was strongly influenced by participants’ associations with personal use, familiarity with usage and the factor of stability and resilience.
Naturfasern dienen der Menschheit seit Urzeiten als wichtiger Rohstoff für viele Gegenstände des täglichen Lebens, sei es als Kleidung, als technische Textilprodukte oder, im Falle von Cellulosefasern, als Ballaststoffe bei unserer Ernährung. Waren die allerersten Gebrauchstextilien unserer Vorfahren noch hauptsächlich tierischen Ursprungs in Form von Fellen und Pelzen, so wurden zunehmend die Pflanzenfasern als Ressource für vielfältige Anwendungen entdeckt. Dem Beispiel der Natur folgend, fanden die unterschiedlichen Faserarten Anwendung entsprechend ihres natürlichen Bestimmungszwecks bzw. entsprechend ihrer morphologischen und technologischen Eigenschaften. So wurde und wird z.B. Wolle aufgrund ihrer flexiblen, isolierenden und wärmenden Eigenschaften hauptsächlich als Kleidung und als Kälteschutz eingesetzt, während sich die steifen, glatten und festen Bastfasern wie Flachs oder Hanf, sich eher als Seile, Netze oder auch als Bogensehnen eigneten.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore why men do not rent luxury fashion to explain why the demand for luxury fashion rental services for men is so low and to contribute to science by collecting high-quality data for the research fields gender differences in barriers to renting fashion, barriers to participating in renting luxury fashion in general and to increase the amount of data on men consumption behavior in the field of fashion and luxury fashion research. Furthermore, this study aims not only to make a theoretical contribution, but also to provide practical implications for the luxury fashion rental industry.
Design/methodology/approach
To answer the research question, qualitative semi-structured interviews with seven men were conducted, who are interested in fashion and spend at least 10% of their monthly net income on luxury fashion per month. Through a deductively-inductively category-based qualitative content analysis of the interviews supported by the software MAXQDA, not only were the reasons found why many men refuse to rent luxury fashion, but also characteristics were discovered that make luxury fashion rental services more attractive to men, as well as two fashion segments and a product category in which men can imagine renting fashion or luxury fashion under certain circumstances.
Findings
Men reject the concept of renting primarily because of the nonexistence of ownership, which has to do with loss of emotional value, loss of functional value, fear of social rejection, and identity concerns; other reasons include lack of individualism, lack of habit and their own subjective standards. Except for two outliers, the remaining men surveyed could imagine using a luxury rental service under certain conditions. The most frequently mentioned features were omnichannel approach, transparency of the entire rental process provided by reviews and feedback about both the borrower and the lender, information about the cleaning process, and proof of authenticity. Also mentioned was the maintenance of exclusivity and the fact that rental services should be offered directly by the company. In the convenience category, the purchase option and insurance were mentioned most often. In addition, some men could imagine renting event-related clothing, very trendy and expensive luxury clothing, and luxury watches. However, none of the respondents would give up owning clothes and primarily use the LFRS.
Value/Practical Implications
So that marketers do not have to go through trial and error to figure out which of these characteristics works best for which male target group, the work developed five types that can be targeted with selected characteristics and their marketing, and thus perhaps persuaded to participate in the LFRS. The social type needs the feature of maintenance of exclusivity, the emotional type needs the purchase option and an omnichannel experience, the flexibility type needs the same day delivery and free exchange possibilities, the cost-benefit type needs analytical tools to maximize his rental income or to calculate whether it is cheaper to buy or rent this particular item for this particular period of time, the rule-governed type needs an added value in addition to renting such as a top service.
Flame-retardant finishing of cotton fabrics using DOPO functionalized alkoxy- and amido alkoxysilane
(2023)
In the present study, DOPO-based alkoxysilane (DOPO-ETES) and amido alkoxysilane (DOPO-AmdPTES) were synthesized by one-step and without by-products as halogen-free flame retardants. The flame retardants were applied on cotton fabric utilizing sol–gel method and pad-dry-cure finishing process. The flame retardancy, the thermal stability and the combustion ehaviour of treated cotton were evaluated by surface and bottom edge ignition flame test (according to EN ISO 15025), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and micro-scale combustion calorimeter (MCC). Unlike CO/DOPO-ETES sample, cotton treated with DOPO-AmdPTES nanosols exhibits self-extinguishing ehaviour with high char residue, an improvement of the LOI value and a significant reduction of the PHRR, HRC and THR compared to pristine cotton. Cotton finished with DOPO-AmdPTES reveals a semi-durability after ten laundering cycles keeping the flame-retardant properties unchanged. According to the results obtained from TGA-FTIR, Py-GC/MS and XPS, the major activity of flame retardant occurs in the condensed phase via catalytic induced char formation as physical barrier along with the activity in the gas phase derived mainly from the dilution effect. The early degradation of CO/DOPO-AmdPTES compared to CO/DOPO-ETES, triggered by the cleavage of the weak bond between P and C=O, as the DFT study indicated, provides the beneficial effect of this flame retardant on the fire resistance of cellulose.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
Polyester fibers are widely employed in a multitude of sectors and applications from the technical textiles to everyday life thanks to their durability, strength, and flexibility. Despite these advantages, polyester lacks in dyeability, adhesion of coating, hydrophilicity, and it is characterized by a low wettability respect to natural fibers. On this regard, beyond the harmful hydrophobic textile finishings of polyester fabrics containing fluorine-compounds, and in order to avoid pre-treatments, such as laser irradiation to improve their surface properties, research is moving towards the development of fluorine-free and safer coatings. In this work, the (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and various long alkyl-chain alkoxysilanes were employed for the fabrication in the presence of a catalyst of a water-based superhydrophobic finishing for polyester fabrics with a simple sol-gel, non-fluorinated, sustainable approach and the dip-pad-dry-cure method. The finished polyester fabrics surface properties were investigated by static and dynamic water repellency tests. Additionally, the resistance to common water-based liquids, abrasion resistance, moisture adsorption, and air permeability measurements were performed. Scanning electron microscopy was employed to examine the micro- and nano-morphology of the functionalized polyester fabrics surfaces. The obtained superhydrophobic finishings displayed high water-based stain resistance as well as good hydrophobicity after different cycles of abrasion.