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The strong demand for a transformation of the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires a continuous implementation of the guiding principle of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) in education and industry [1, 2]. In a first step of the European research project "Sustainable fashion curriculum at textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) a continuing education module shall be created to implement ESD as a guiding principle in university teaching. The research-based teaching and learning materials are delivered through an e-learning portal.
The strong demand to transform the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires continuous implementation of the Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) mission statement in education and industry. To achieve this goal, the European research project "Fashion DIET - Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe. Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators", co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union (2020-1-DE01-KA203-005657), aims to create an ESD module for university lecturers and research-based teaching and learning materials delivered through an e-learning portal. First, an online questionnaire was rolled out to assess university faculty attitudes toward and needs for ESD content and methods. The feedback questionnaire enabled the selection of the most relevant data for the elaboration of an action and research-oriented professional development module for ESD in textile education, which will be accessible through an information & e-learning portal. The e-learning portal can be used as a web-based tool to apply and evaluate the project outcomes, e.g. the further education module and the teaching and learning materials for educators, such as manuals, broadcasts and the provision of interactive and physical materials. It thus ensures that the teaching materials can be used sustainably in the classroom. It also provides country-specific data for the fashion and textile industry and its market, taking into account the different perspectives of universities and schools. In any case, the portal represents (1) the web-based platform to support the dissemination of ESD as a guiding principle and (2) a central contact point for the target group to obtain relevant information on ESD. Fashion DIET explores the use of e-learning to improve teaching and learning on ESD, by training educators and empowering them as multipliers for a sustainable textile and fashion industry. At a higher level, the European project strengthens the quality and relevance of learning provision in education towards the latest developments in textile research and innovation in terms of a more sustainable fashion.
In recent years, the demand for accurate and efficient 3D body scanning technologies has increased, driven by the growing interest in personalised textile development and health care. This position paper presents the implementation of a novel 3D body scanner that integrates multiple RGB cameras and image stitching techniques to generate detailed point clouds and 3D mesh models. Our system significantly enhances the scanning process, achieving higher resolution and fidelity while reducing the cost, time and effort required for data acquisition and processing. Furthermore, we evaluate the potential use cases and applications of our 3D body scanner, focusing on the textile technology and health sectors. In textile development, the 3D scanner contributes to bespoke clothing production, allowing designers to construct made-to-measure garments, thus minimising waste and enhancing customer satisfaction through fitting clothing. In mental health care, the 3D body scanner can be employed as a tool for body image analysis, providing valuable insights into the psychological and emotional aspects of self-perception. By exploring the synergy between the 3D body scanner and these fields, we aim to foster interdisciplinary collaborations that drive advancements in personalisation, sustainability, and well-being.
Patterns are virtually simulated in 3D CAD programs before production to check the fit. However, achieving lifelike representations of human avatars, especially regarding soft tissue dynamics, remains challenging. This is mainly since conventional avatars in garment CAD programs are simulated with a continuous hard surface and not corresponding to the human physical and mechanical body properties of soft tissue. In the real world, the human body’s natural shape is affected by the contact pressure of tight-fitting textiles. To verify the fit of a simulated garment, the interactions between the individual body shape and the garment must be considered. This paper introduces an innovative approach to digitising the softness of human tissue using 4D scanning technology. The primary objective of this research is to explore the interactions between tissue softness and different compression levels of apparel, exerting pressure on the tissue to capture the changes in the natural shape. Therefore, to generate data and model an avatar with soft body physics, it is essential to capture the deform ability and elasticity of the soft tissue and map it into the modification options for a simulation. To aim this, various methods from different fields were researched and compared to evaluate 4D scanning as the most suitable method for capturing tissue deformability in vivo. In particular, it should be considered that the human body has different deformation capabilities depending on age, the amount of muscle and body fat. In addition, different tissue zones have different mechanical properties, so it is essential to identify and classify them to back up these properties for the simulation. It has been shown that by digitising the obtained data of the different defined applied pressure levels, a prediction of the deformation of the tissue of the exact person becomes possible. As technology advances and data sets grow, this approach has the potential to reshape how we verify fit digitally with soft avatars and leverage their realistic soft tissue properties for various practical purposes.
Thin, flat textile roofing offers negligible heat insulation. In warm areas, such roofing membranes are therefore equipped with metallized surfaces to reflect solar heat radiation, thus reducing the warming inside a textile building. Heat reflection effects achieved by metallic coatings are always accompanied by shading effects as the metals are non-transparent for visible light (VIS). Transparent conductive oxides (TCOs) are transparent for VIS and are able to reflect heat radiation in the infrared. TCOs are, e.g., widely used in the display industry. To achieve the perfect coatings needed for electronic devices, these are commonly applied using costly vacuum processes at high temperatures. Vacuum processes, on account of the high costs involved and high processing temperatures, are obstructive for an application involving textiles. Accepting that heat-reflecting textile membranes demand less perfect coatings, a wet chemical approach has been followed here when producing transparent heat-reflecting coatings. Commercially available TCOs were employed as colloidal dispersions or nanopowders to prepare sol-gel-based coating systems. Such coatings were applied to textile membranes as used for architectural textiles using simple coating techniques and at moderate curing temperatures not exceeding 130 °C. The coatings achieved about 90% transmission in the VIS spectrum and reduced near-infrared transmission (at about 2.5 µm) to nearly zero while reflecting up to 25% of that radiation. Up to 35% reflection has been realized in the far infrared, and emissivity values down to ε = 0.5777 have been measured.
Cotton contamination by honeydew is considered one of the significant problems for quality in textiles as it causes stickiness during manufacturing. Therefore, millions of dollars in losses are attributed to honeydew contamination each year. This work presents the use of UV hyperspectral imaging (225–300 nm) to characterize honeydew contamination on raw cotton samples. As reference samples, cotton samples were soaked in solutions containing sugar and proteins at different concentrations to mimic honeydew. Multivariate techniques such as a principal component analysis (PCA) and partial least squares regression (PLS-R) were used to predict and classify the amount of honeydew at each pixel of a hyperspectral image of raw cotton samples. The results show that the PCA model was able to differentiate cotton samples based on their sugar concentrations. The first two principal components (PCs) explain nearly 91.0% of the total variance. A PLS-R model was built, showing a performance with a coefficient of determination for the validation (R2cv) = 0.91 and root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) = 0.036 g. This PLS-R model was able to predict the honeydew content in grams on raw cotton samples for each pixel. In conclusion, UV hyperspectral imaging, in combination with multivariate data analysis, shows high potential for quality control in textiles.
It is widely recognized that Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) plays a critical role in creating a more sustainable world by fostering the development of the knowledge, skills, understanding, values, and actions necessary for such change (UNESCO, 2020). In this context, ESD represents a holistic approach that focuses on lifelong learning to create informed people who can make decisions today and in the future. Related to the textile and fashion industry, ESD is an appropriate approach to continuously implement sustainability aspects in education and training. To achieve this goal, the European project "Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) has developed a digital teaching module in a partnership between a University of Education and universities with textile departments. The main objective of the project is to elaborate an ESD module for university lecturers in order to introduce a sustainable fashion curriculum in textile universities in Europe and implement it in educational systems. The project therefore aims to train educators along the textile supply chain, to inform the young generation about the latest aspects of sustainability and raise awareness by implementing ESD in textile education. This paper presents the learning outcomes of the modules on sustainable fashion design and related production technologies developed by the technical university partners, as part of the total of 42 courses covering didactic-methodological approaches and the sustainable orientation of the fashion market, offered at the consortium level. The project content is made available as Open Educational Resources through Glocal Campus, an open-access e-learning platform that enables virtual collaboration between universities.
The replacement of conventional material with recyclates affects product personality, particularly regarding sustainability aspects influencing consumer behaviour. A definition of personality for products made of recyclates is missing in literature. As these products require appropriate aesthetics based on material origin to communicate the advantage concerning sustainability, there is a need for research in this regard. This paper aims to develop an adequate personality of a reusable water bottle made of ocean plastic by collecting personality traits that evoke associations related to the material's origin and sustainability. We conducted two quantitative field studies. Study 1 collected associated visual perceived attributes and context-related personality traits in order to develop and visualize a preliminary design. Study 2 evaluated the design regarding associated personality traits. The overall outcome was a product personality scale consisting of 23 items plus a concrete design recommendation for a water bottle made of recycled ocean plastic. The assessment of degree of sustainability was strongly influenced by participants’ associations with personal use, familiarity with usage and the factor of stability and resilience.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to explore why men do not rent luxury fashion to explain why the demand for luxury fashion rental services for men is so low and to contribute to science by collecting high-quality data for the research fields gender differences in barriers to renting fashion, barriers to participating in renting luxury fashion in general and to increase the amount of data on men consumption behavior in the field of fashion and luxury fashion research. Furthermore, this study aims not only to make a theoretical contribution, but also to provide practical implications for the luxury fashion rental industry.
Design/methodology/approach
To answer the research question, qualitative semi-structured interviews with seven men were conducted, who are interested in fashion and spend at least 10% of their monthly net income on luxury fashion per month. Through a deductively-inductively category-based qualitative content analysis of the interviews supported by the software MAXQDA, not only were the reasons found why many men refuse to rent luxury fashion, but also characteristics were discovered that make luxury fashion rental services more attractive to men, as well as two fashion segments and a product category in which men can imagine renting fashion or luxury fashion under certain circumstances.
Findings
Men reject the concept of renting primarily because of the nonexistence of ownership, which has to do with loss of emotional value, loss of functional value, fear of social rejection, and identity concerns; other reasons include lack of individualism, lack of habit and their own subjective standards. Except for two outliers, the remaining men surveyed could imagine using a luxury rental service under certain conditions. The most frequently mentioned features were omnichannel approach, transparency of the entire rental process provided by reviews and feedback about both the borrower and the lender, information about the cleaning process, and proof of authenticity. Also mentioned was the maintenance of exclusivity and the fact that rental services should be offered directly by the company. In the convenience category, the purchase option and insurance were mentioned most often. In addition, some men could imagine renting event-related clothing, very trendy and expensive luxury clothing, and luxury watches. However, none of the respondents would give up owning clothes and primarily use the LFRS.
Value/Practical Implications
So that marketers do not have to go through trial and error to figure out which of these characteristics works best for which male target group, the work developed five types that can be targeted with selected characteristics and their marketing, and thus perhaps persuaded to participate in the LFRS. The social type needs the feature of maintenance of exclusivity, the emotional type needs the purchase option and an omnichannel experience, the flexibility type needs the same day delivery and free exchange possibilities, the cost-benefit type needs analytical tools to maximize his rental income or to calculate whether it is cheaper to buy or rent this particular item for this particular period of time, the rule-governed type needs an added value in addition to renting such as a top service.
Flame-retardant finishing of cotton fabrics using DOPO functionalized alkoxy- and amido alkoxysilane
(2023)
In the present study, DOPO-based alkoxysilane (DOPO-ETES) and amido alkoxysilane (DOPO-AmdPTES) were synthesized by one-step and without by-products as halogen-free flame retardants. The flame retardants were applied on cotton fabric utilizing sol–gel method and pad-dry-cure finishing process. The flame retardancy, the thermal stability and the combustion ehaviour of treated cotton were evaluated by surface and bottom edge ignition flame test (according to EN ISO 15025), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and micro-scale combustion calorimeter (MCC). Unlike CO/DOPO-ETES sample, cotton treated with DOPO-AmdPTES nanosols exhibits self-extinguishing ehaviour with high char residue, an improvement of the LOI value and a significant reduction of the PHRR, HRC and THR compared to pristine cotton. Cotton finished with DOPO-AmdPTES reveals a semi-durability after ten laundering cycles keeping the flame-retardant properties unchanged. According to the results obtained from TGA-FTIR, Py-GC/MS and XPS, the major activity of flame retardant occurs in the condensed phase via catalytic induced char formation as physical barrier along with the activity in the gas phase derived mainly from the dilution effect. The early degradation of CO/DOPO-AmdPTES compared to CO/DOPO-ETES, triggered by the cleavage of the weak bond between P and C=O, as the DFT study indicated, provides the beneficial effect of this flame retardant on the fire resistance of cellulose.
Polyester fibers are widely employed in a multitude of sectors and applications from the technical textiles to everyday life thanks to their durability, strength, and flexibility. Despite these advantages, polyester lacks in dyeability, adhesion of coating, hydrophilicity, and it is characterized by a low wettability respect to natural fibers. On this regard, beyond the harmful hydrophobic textile finishings of polyester fabrics containing fluorine-compounds, and in order to avoid pre-treatments, such as laser irradiation to improve their surface properties, research is moving towards the development of fluorine-free and safer coatings. In this work, the (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane (GPTMS) and various long alkyl-chain alkoxysilanes were employed for the fabrication in the presence of a catalyst of a water-based superhydrophobic finishing for polyester fabrics with a simple sol-gel, non-fluorinated, sustainable approach and the dip-pad-dry-cure method. The finished polyester fabrics surface properties were investigated by static and dynamic water repellency tests. Additionally, the resistance to common water-based liquids, abrasion resistance, moisture adsorption, and air permeability measurements were performed. Scanning electron microscopy was employed to examine the micro- and nano-morphology of the functionalized polyester fabrics surfaces. The obtained superhydrophobic finishings displayed high water-based stain resistance as well as good hydrophobicity after different cycles of abrasion.
Are textile structures better? In the professional world, there is no doubt that textile composites can offer many advantages. It is well known that they are often better than non-textile alternatives. There are manifold examples. Innovative developments are not only the popular textile reinforced concrete which was awarded with the Deutscher Zukunftspreis (German Future Award) but also a huge number of probably less perceived or spectacular products based on fiber-reinforced plastics.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
The textile-finishing industry, is one of the main sources of persistent organic pollutants in water; in this regard, it is necessary to develop and employ new sustainable approaches for fabric finishing and treatment. This research study shows the development of an efficient and eco-friendly procedure to form highly hydrophobic surfaces on cotton fabrics using different modified silica sols. In particular, the formation of highly hydrophobic surfaces on cotton fabrics was studied by using a two-step treatment procedure, i.e., first applying a hybrid silica sol obtained by hydrolysis and subsequent condensation of (3-Glycidyloxypropyl) trimethoxy silane with different alkyl(trialkoxy) silane under acid conditions, and then applying hydrolyzed hexadecyltrimethoxysilane on the treated fabrics to further improve the fabrics’ hydrophobicity. The treated cotton fabrics showed excellent water repellency with a water contact angle above 150◦ under optimum treatment conditions. The cooperative action of rough surface structure due to the silica sol nanoparticles and the low surface energy caused by long-chain alkyl(trialkoxy)silane in the nanocomposite coating, combined with the expected roughness on microscale due to the fabrics and fiber structure, provided the treated cotton fabrics with excellent, almost super, hydrophobicity and water-based stain resistance in an eco-sustainable way.
When wearing compressive garments, the tissue of the human body is altered in relation to its natural shape by the properties of the applied material and by the pattern construction used.
To check the fit of garments, both construction and selected materials can be virtually simulated in 3D on avatars in corresponding CAD programs before fabrication.
The software Blender allows the modelling of an avatar and to generate in respective to the different tissue zones with their specific properties to adjust them with soft body physics according to the testing of real soft tissue but the models in Blender are mainly using linear springs.
A premise guaranteeing the successful interdisciplinary teamwork in product design is a mutual understanding of both professional and academic communities of the different design expertise and the role they play in the process. It appears that the open compound word industrial design is open to interpretation in European education. This ambiguity had a negative impact on the labour policies of some European countries, which have labelled some professions with incorrect names. Therefore, this terminological inconsistency urges for clarification within the design community. This work analyses the term industrial design, it presents historical developments in European industrial design education, in particular in Germany and in the Netherlands, and discusses how the education to the industrial design profession was positioned towards product development. This paper suggests that the causes for the observed lack of clarity about the meaning of the term industrial design are of an etymological and disciplinary kind. In order to act as a bridge between the professional and academic communities, universities should create the premises for interdisciplinary collaboration between designers and engineers through standardized communication, ultimately contributing for a sustainable future in both design and engineering education.
For a holistic assessment of the interaction between the human body and tight fitted clothing, it is necessary to consider the mechanical properties of the body. Default avatars in CAD software are usually solid and do not take this interaction into account. For this purpose, a solid avatar is converted to a deformable one by using the soft body physics implementation in the simulation program Blender. The fit of a 3D garment on both avatars are compared, which allows a first evaluation of the differences between these approaches.
The requirements for textiles differ greatly depending on the area of application, whereby it often does not remain with only one required functionality. For example, in the field of functional clothing or protective clothing/PPE, it is necessary to protect the textile’s wearers from UV radiation. At the same time, self-cleaning effects offer certain advantages in that field. In addition, an antimicrobial effect in functional clothing can reduce the formation of unpleasant odors, and in PPE – especially in the healthcare sector – can contribute to the interruption of the chain of infection. One way to achieve these 3 desired functions in just one finishing step is to immobilize titanium dioxide (TiO2). However, TiO2 is viewed critically for application in the textile sector due to a REACH listing. Another disadvantage is that it only takes effect under UV radiation and is therefore not suitable for indoor use. Alternatively, photocatalysts such as doped zinc oxides (ZnO) can be used, which also exhibit catalytic activity through activation by visible light, which can lead to the killing of microorganisms and the degradation of organic soiling.
Energy consumption by air-conditioning is expansive and leads to the emission of millions of tons of CO2 every year. A promising approach to circumvent this problem is the reflection of solar radiation: Rooms that would not heat up by irradiation will not need to be cooled down. Especially, transparent conductive metal oxides exhibit high infrared (IR) reflectivity and are commonly applied as low-emissivity coatings (low-e coatings). Indium tin oxide (ITO) coatings are the state-of-the-art application, though indium is a rare and expensive resource. This work demonstrates that aluminum-doped zinc oxide (AZO) can be a suitable alternative to ITO for IR-reflection applications. AZO synthesized here exhibits better emissivity to be used as roofing membrane coatings for buildings in comparison to commercially available ITO coatings. AZO particles forming the reflective coating are generated via solvothermal synthesis routes and obtain high conductivity and IR reflectivity without the need of any further post-thermal treatment. Different synthesis parameters were studied, and their effects on both conductive and optical properties of the AZO nanoparticles were evaluated. To this end, a series of characterization methods, especially 27Al-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (27Al-NMR) analysis, have been conducted for a deeper insight into the particles’ structure to understand the differences in conductivity and optical properties. The optimized AZO nanoparticles were coated on flexible transparent textile-based roofing membranes and tested as low-e coatings. The membranes demonstrated higher thermal reflectance compared with commercial ITO materials with an emissivity value lowered by 16%.
Automotive technology is in a state of upheaval. IN the field of human machine interface (HMI), the increasing interaction between vehicles, users, and the Internet results in an increment of controls needed, which ultimately has a negative impact on usability and overall car weight. An interdisciplinary team of researchers has been developing for the past two years more intuitive and lighter in-car user interfaces through smart textiles at Reutlingen University. With the newly developed operating and feedback properties, a 1:1 demonstrator was realized and then integrated into a car driving simulator.
In the IGF project No. 19617 N, nitrogen and phosphorous substituted alkoxysilanes were prepared and their ability to inhibit fire growth and spread for fabrics was explored. To this end, a series of flame retardants were synthesized using different strategies including click chemistry and nucleophilic substitution of commercial organophosphorus compounds with amino-based trialkoxysilanes and/or cyanuric chloride. The new halogen-free and aldehyde-free flame retardants were applied to different fabrics such as cotton (CO), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyamide (PA) and their blends using the well-known pad-dry-cure technique and sol-gel method. The flame-retarding efficiencies were evaluated by EN ISO 15025 test methods (protective clothing-protection against heat and flame method of test for limited flame spread). Good flame retardancy of the hybrid organic-inorganic materials was achieved with the addition of as small amount as 3-5 wt.% for cotton fabrics. Moreover, the water solubility and the washing resistance could be controlled through the functional groups attached to the phosphor atom or through the optimization of the curing temperature. Overall, the research project demonstrated that N-P-silanes are very good permanent flame retardants for textiles.
Nanocoatings based on sol–gel coatings are presented as suitable tool to modify materials based on polymers. The main focus is set onto textiles as the most common polymer materials. It presents which types of functionalization can be reached by modified sol–gel processes. Also a suitable categorization of functions is given and set into relation to common applications. A special focus is set on the functional properties, antimicrobial, UV protective, and flame retardant. The concept of bifunctional coatings is discussed and especially the combination of water-repellent and antistatic is presented.
This paper explores why and how dominant international social standards used in the fashion industry are prone to implementation failures. A qualitative multiple-case study method was conducted, using purposive sampling to select 13 apparel supply chain actors. Data were collected through on-site semi-structured face-to-face interviews. The findings of the study are interpreted by using core tenets of agency theory. The case study findings clearly highlight why and how multi-tier apparel supply chains fail to implement social standards effectively. As a consequence of substantial goal conflicts and information asymmetries, sourcing agents and suppliers are driven to perform opportunistic behaviors in form of hidden characteristics, hidden intentions, and hidden actions, which significantly harm social standards. Fashion retailers need to empower their corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments by awarding an integrative role to sourcing decisions. Moreover, accurate calculation of orders, risk sharing, cost sharing, price premiums, and especially guaranteed order continuity for social compliance are critical to reduce opportunistic behaviors upstream of the supply chain. The development of social standards is highly suggested, e.g., by including novel metrics such as the assessment of buying practices or the evaluation of capacity planning at factories and the strict inclusion of subcontractors’ social performances. This paper presents evidence from multiple Vietnamese and Indonesian cases involving sourcing agents as well as Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers on a highly sensitive topic. With the development of the conceptual framework and the formulation of seven related novel propositions, this paper unveils the ineffectiveness of social standards, offers guidance for practitioners, and contributes to the neglected social dimension in sustainable supply chain management research and accountability literature.
Today's pattern making methods for industrial purposes are including construction principles, which are based on mathematical formula and sizing charts. As a result, there are two-dimensional flats, which can be converted into a three-dimensional garment. Because of their high linearity, those patterns are incapable of recreating the complexity of the human body, which results in insufficient fit. Subsequent changes of the pattern require a high degree of experience and lead to an inefficient product development process. It is known that draping allows the development of more complex and demanding patterns, which corresponds more to the actual body shape. Therefore, this method is used in custom tailoring and haute couture to achieve perfect garment fit but is also associated with time.
So, there is the act of defiance to improve the fit of garments, to speed up production but maintain a good value for money. Reutlingen University is therefore working on the development of 3D-modelled body shapes for 3D draping, considering different layers of clothing, such as jackets or coats. For this purpose, 3D modelling is used to develop 3D-bodies that correspond to the finished dimensions of the garment. By flattening of the modelled body, it is then possible to obtain an optimal 2D Pattern of the body. The comparison of the conventional method and the developed method is done by 3D simulation.
Finally, the optical fit test is demonstrated by the simulated basic cuts, that a significantly better body wrapping through the newly developed methodology could be achieved. Unlike in the basic cuts, which were achieved by classical design principles have been created, only a few adjustments are necessary to obtain an optimized basic cut. Also, when considering the body distance, it is shown that the newly developed basic patterns provide a more even enclosure of the body.
The process for the production of customized bras is really challenging. Although the need is very clear, the lingerie industry is currently facing a lack of data, knowledge and expertise for the realization of an automated process chain. Different studies and surveys have shown, that the majority of women wear the incorrect bra size. In addition to aesthetic problems, health risks such as headaches, back problems or digestive problems of the wearers can result from this. An important prerequisite for improvements is the basic knowledge about the female breast, both in terms of body measurements and different breast shapes. The current size systematic for bras only defines a bra size by the relation between bust girth and underbust girth and standardized cup forms do not justice to the high variability of the human body. As the bra type shapes the female breast, basic knowledge about the relation of measurements and shapes from the clothed and the unclothed breast is missing.
In the present project, studies are conducted to explore the female breast and to derive new breast-specific body measurements, different breast shapes and deformation knowledge using existing bras.
Furthermore, an innovative process is being developed that leads from 3D scanning to individual and interactive pattern construction, which allows an automatic pattern creation based on individual body measurements and the influence of different material parameters.
In the course of the presentation, the current project status will be shown and the future developments and project steps will be introduced.
In addition to increased safety by detecting possible overload, continuous component monitoring by sensor integration makes the use of fiber reinforced plastics more cost-effective. Since the components are continuously monitored, one can switch from time-based to condition-based maintenance. However, the integration of conventional sensor components causes weak points, as foreign objects are inserted into the reinforcing structure. In this paper, we examine the use of the textile reinforcement as a sensor in itself. We describe how bending sensors can be formed by slightly modifying in the composite’s reinforcement structure. We investigated two different sensor principles. (1) The integration of textile plate capacitors into the structure; (2) The construction of textile piezo elements as part of the reinforcing structure. The bending test results reveal that textile plate capacitors show a load-dependent signal output. The samples with textile piezo elements show a significant increase in signal strength.
Woven piezoelectric sensors as part of the textile reinforcement of fiber reinforced plastics
(2019)
Sensor integration in fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) structures enables online process and structural health monitoring (SHM). This paper describes the development and application of woven fabric-based piezoelectric impact and bending sensors for integration into FRP. The work focuses on design and characterization of woven piezoelectric sensors, especially as a part of the reinforcement structure. The reinforcement of the component acts as a sensor in itself and therefore no additional external objects in the form of sensor components or sensor fibers, which could create unwanted weak points within the FRP, are added. The bending test results reveal a direct relationship between the applied load and the sensor signal. Furthermore, the appropriate sensor position in the component cross section was determined and the influence of thermal polarization on the sensor properties was investigated.
Product-Service Systems (PSS) in the fashion industry : an analysis of intra-organizational factors
(2018)
The fashion industry is a vast industry that has grown tremendously over the last decades. This growth causes significant environmental impact since the production of clothes involves high input of energy, water, chemicals and generates great volumes of waste. Even though fashion firms have started to address this challenge by adopting environmental standards, it has turned out that the sole use of eco-friendly material and new manufacturing techniques is insufficient. Instead, sustainable business models are increasingly gaining attention to solve the environmental problems. Offers to rent, swap, repair or redesign clothes are among the most prominent and promising examples. For analytical purposes, these concepts can be assigned to the growing research stream of Product-Service Systems (PSS) that shift the focus from the pure sale of a product toward complementary or substitutional service offers. This decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption, prolongs the garments' lifetime and thus diminishes both material input and appertaining waste. Besides environmental sustainability, PSS imply potential economic benefits for organizations. Particularly in highly competitive industries like the fashion industry, PSS allow firms to differentiate, better compete with cost pressure and mitigate the risk of being imitated by rivels since service is more difficult to replicate. However, fashion PSS are still mainly operated in a niche market by small firms and have yet to be anchored in the mainstream fashion industry.
The desire to combine advanced user friendly interfaces with a product personality communicating environmental friendliness to customers poses new challenges for car interior designers, as little research has been carried out in this field to date. In this paper, the creation of three personas aimed at defining key German car users with pro environmental behaviour is presented. After collecting ethnographic data of potential drivers through literature review, information about generation and Euro car segment led to the definition of three key user groups. The resulting personas were applied to determine the most important interaction points in car interior. Finally, present design cues of eco-friendly product personality developed in the field of automotive design were explored. Our work presents three strategic directions for the design development of future in-car user interfaces named as a) foster multimodal mobility; b) emphasize the interlinkage economy - sustainable driving; and c) highlight new technological developments. The presented results are meant as an impulse for developers to fit the needs of green customers and drivers when designing user-friendly HMI components.
Creativity, problem-solving skills and the ability for collaborative work are considered key competences for facing the challenges of the 21st century. Children are born with an inherent creativity that decreases throughout their school careers. A research team of designers and educators investigates whether the implementation of Design Thinking (DT) in textile education in German elementary schools is a suitable method to preserve children’s creativity. Initial surveys with teachers and pilot studies in elementary schools showed high motivation and openmindedness towards DT in classroom. The challenge will be to develop suitable teaching modules for elementary schools of the federal state Baden Württemberg.
A distinctive highlight of the dissertation at hand is the investigation of multiple apparel supply chain actors incorporating the views of a global apparel retailer in Europe and multiple suppliers in Vietnam and Indonesia.
More specifically, the dissertation presents a coherent investigation starting with the depiction of a conceptual framework for social management strategies as a means for social risk management (SRM), exclusively aiming at the apparel industry. In accordance to the identified research gaps and suggested research directions from the conceptual framework, the role of the apparel sourcing agent for social management strategies was analysed by conducting a multiple case study approach with evidence from Vietnam and Europe, ultimately suggesting ten propositions. Whereas a further multiple case study data collection in Vietnam, Indonesia and Europe allowed for the investigation of buyer-supplier relationships with regards to social compliance strategies by using core tenets of agency theory to interpret the findings and outline ten propositions. Based on the development of a conceptual framework on social SSCM in the apparel industry, the formulation of related 20 propositions with evidence from crucial developing (apparel sourcing) countries, and the application of agency theory which has been declared as a shortfall in this context, this thesis contributes with further grounding to SSCM theory and substantially contributes to the debate by addressing numerous research gaps.
This book aims to explore various aspects of the use of moving images in fashion retail and fashion apparel companies in-store or online. The use of moving images is growing in numbers and in relevance for consumers. Films can be used in various forms by fashion businesses in traditional media like cinema or TV and in modern forms like in social media or moving images in high street stores.
The book provides a data-oriented analysis of the state-of-the-art with certain future outlooks. Additional areas of covering fashion in moving images, such as ‘fashion company identity films’ or ‘fashion and music videos’ are covered in order to get a more complete analysis from a consumer influenced perspective.
This chapter provides insights in the future of fashion film with respect to augmented reality and virtual reality technologies. The question: How does augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film? is therefore considered. It is important to analyze the influence of those technologies on fashion films to assess the potential for fashion retailers and in best case gain first-mover advantages. To answer the stated research question, a literature research was conducted to gain insights about the topic and its influence towards fashion filming. Explanation of augmented reality and virtual reality is provided as well as implications in the retail sector regarding fashion films. Moreover, company examples already using this approach have been compiled. Furthermore, an empirical research part was conducted including a survey method based on an online survey design. The questionnaire is based on what has been revealed in literature to gain in depth insides and approval. The data gained indicated that augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film in various ways. The findings highlight how important those technologies can be in order to enhance customer experience and engagement. Regarding the research question, the conclusion can be drawn that it is highly important for fashion managers to take future developments like augmented reality and virtual reality into account to stay competitive and satisfy the requirements of modern consumers.
Today, digitalization is firmly anchored in society and business. It is also recognized to have significant impact on the retailing sector. The in-store display of moving images has so far, however, gained little attention by researchers. The aim of this research is to provide a first estimation on the current state of moving images distribution in stationary retail stores. A store check was the basis for analysis and evaluation. In sum, 152 stores were analyzed in Stuttgart, Germany. Out of 152 observed stores, 62 stores showed 177 moving images. Detailed analyses about content, mood, color and the actors of motion pictures showed that all aspects are very well harmonized with the target group of the store. The chapter provides a basic estimation of the in-store diffusion of moving images. Thereby, avenues for further research are opened up.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles in online shops in the German, American and British markets. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is underutilized. With the amount of data that was manageable within the scope of this chapter, no valid generalizations can be made. All described results must be understood as an indication. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider before exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailer should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post processing of these videos.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles. An explorative approach was chosen for the literature section. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is possible in numerous different ways. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailers should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post-processing of these videos.
An event film is a successful marketing and communication instrument, which can be used from companies along social media. By reaching the target group and potential customers, companies could benefit from increasing brand awareness. It is striking that there is a lack of information about how event films are used in regard to showing fashion. To establish the subject further, the purpose of this paper is to enrich the existing findings and analyze the influence event films have. In an empirical study, the performance of two events and the two related fast fashion retailers H&M and Zara on Instagram and YouTube regarding event and fashion connected films is analyzed. Identified stylistic elements of event fashion are searched and found in their online shops. Since emotions are especially well transferred through event films, there is an indication that they contribute to the shaping of fashion trends.
Fashion show films
(2020)
Due to technological developments, fashion show films provide fashion brands the opportunity to communicate their brand concepts, to attract attention and to gain more brand awareness by publishing them in the Internet. The purpose of this research paper is to investigate how fashion brands communicate their brand concept and personality through fashion show films. For this purpose, ten fashion show films of brands from the categories luxury, premium, high-street and active wear are investigated. The results indicate that the investigated brands use different ways to attract attention and to communicate their brand concept and personality. The design of the setting, the presentation of the collection as well as the visualization of the brand concept through the brand name, logo, colors or symbols and camera work play an important role to create an effective and exciting fashion show film in order to communicate the brand concept and to promote their brand image. Mostly luxury and premium brands use fashion show films for branding. For high-street and active wear brands the analysis indicates less importance of fashion show films. The limitations of this research are related to the fact that the restricted number of ten fashion show films is analyzed. This gives an overview but cannot provide a comprehensive breakdown of this topic.
Hip-hop culture defines itself through four central pillars: DJing, MCing, breakdancing and graffiti, but a fifth one, fashion, may be in the coming. Hip-hop has become the most popular music genre, and the influence it has on society is undebatable. But as hip-hop artists increasingly underpin their music with visual components, like music videos, the question arises if that has an influence on the fashion industry. This chapter clarifies which factors may determine a fashion business impact and discusses differences between mainstream hip-hop artists and the ones that are active in the fashion industry as well. The focus lays on the way and amount fashion is presented in the music videos. 24 music videos were analyzed, thereof 15 popular records from the past three years and nine of artists that are already considered as fashion influential. Additionally, a fashion influence index was created to compare the degree of fashion between the music videos. Numbers of styles, recognized brands, fashion related song verses, fashion related description box mentions and articles about the fashion in the music video were noted. Findings reveal that the number of outfits shown in the video did not have a direct link to the amount of traffic it produces in fashion media. The artists that are considered influential in the fashion industry, name brands in their song lyrics more often and show brand logos more frequent in their music videos than others. Though over the observed years, for the mainstream hip-hop artists, a rise in fashion awareness can be seen through a higher number of styles, recognizable brands and fashion related verses in the lyrics.
This chapter looks at the usage of image films produced by brands and their dealing with themselves. It focuses on analyzing important film parameters, the content and the way it can influence brand image. A list of 70 fashion brands from different categories was gathered through a survey and confirmed by comparing the results with relevant literature. All 70 brands were looked at to find relevant self-referencing films. The films had to be produced by the brand themselves. Videos for advertisement or promoting collections are not regarded either. In total 22 films from 17 brands were analyzed. Results show that most brands seem to have recognized videos as a powerful marketing tool in the social media age. Many brands seem to struggle with the compliance of certain parameters such as length and the use of the brand logo. In general, the content of the videos is focused around the four topics recruitment, value, history and behind the brand. As for the intent, the videos can be classified into the three categories learning, emotion and doing something. This paper not only analyzes this special film category, but also gives recommendations to improve the videos.
Instagram fashion videos
(2020)
Instagram is one of the most used social media platforms to share photos and videos. Due to this, it can be seen as a helpful opportunity for companies to use the platform as a marketing tool in order to spread information to a wide range of potential customers. Ever since its launch, Instagram is strongly connected to fashion, which makes the platform in particular interesting for fashion brands. According to the screened literature, most brands use Instagram for marketing purposes. It is furthermore a matter of fact, that the utilization of videos plays a decisive role. Following up on this, the question about how brands use videos on Instagram for marketing purposes comes up. Due to this, this chapter aims to investigate the extent to which brands make use of videos on Instagram, what the goals of the videos are and what the most effective videos in terms of user engagement are. More specifically, this chapter includes an empirical study which examines the Instagram profiles of nine selected brands of the categories lifestyle, luxury and fashion and sportswear on the underlying research question. A subsequent evaluation and discussion of the results depicts differences and similarities within the categories and between the categories. All in all, the results of the study show that fashion brands use the possibility of films as a marketing tool on Instagram. The content and types of films thereby heavily depend on the brand category.
YouTube fashion videos
(2020)
YouTube is the most widely adopted and successful video sharing platform. It works as a marketing instrument and money-making tool for companies while reaching the target group. After considering the significant literature based on YouTube, it is striking that there is lack of information about YouTube’s benefits as a video marketing instrument for fashion brands. To establish this subject further, the purpose of this study is to enrich the existing findings on social video marketing on YouTube in the apparel industry. The findings indicate the importance of YouTube as a social network for fashion marketers. The second part conducts an empirical study, which makes the YouTube channel performance of nine fashion brands the subject of discussion. Thereby, three brands per lifestyle, sports and luxury sector are analyzed through comparative aspects. Accordingly, the differences and similarities within and between the sectors are analyzed and evaluated.
Based on new ways of watching series via streaming platforms and a change of buying behavior, advertising needs to focus on new strategies. Branded entertainment gives brands the opportunity to deeper integrate their product placements into television show plots. Through a managerial perspective this increases the advertising effectiveness. The serial ‘Sex and the City’ exemplifies successful branded entertainment and shows how series influence fashion nowadays. The placements are outstanding when it comes to storytelling around the brand or product, setting trends and creating a character connection plus a desire through identification. This chapter shows success factors and chances of placements for the fashion industry.
This chapter discusses German television as a platform for fashion content and, in that context, streaming services as possible alternatives. Three German television channels were surveilled over the period of one month, as well as the two most popular streaming services in Germany and the online media library of one German television channel over six months, regarding length, fashion connection, transmission time and success. Additionally, for three channels fashion advertisement was analyzed. Broadcasting the most contributions with fashion connection in one month, VOX was the channel being the most fashionable. Aiming to entertain, informative contributions about fashion in television build a minority. Streaming services offer more flexibility, which the user is asking for. All three television stations show fashion brand spots during prime-time. Especially ProSieben and sixx are in close cooperation with several fashion brands. Therefore, fashion advertising seems to be preferably inserted in fashion related series.
The connection of fashion and film seems symbiotic at first sight and they influence each other. There exist differences, including a different understanding of clothing by costume designers and fashion businesses. This article focuses on two successful movies „The Hunger Games“ and „The Great Gatsby“ in order to explore the role of film in fashion and vice versa. The findings suggest, that there are various collections in the fashion world, based on both movies. Therefore, movies indeed have an influence on the development of seasonal fashion. However, this connection is not natural, but rather artificially created by both industries. Through nowadays organized co-operation, the lines between costume designers and fashion designers get blurred. Furthermore, today fashion doesn’t trickle down to an audience naturally, but promoted using the film and its broad reach.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between fashion businesses and film from a fashion business perspective. It focuses on the idea that digitalization brought much more film use for the fashion industry and that this development has just begun and not ended. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as fashion companies nowadays are content producers with films, too. The resulting closer connection with viewers via social media exposes fashion companies, gives on the other hand new influence potential to the fashion system. An in-depth future research about the fashion and film system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
Collaborative apparel consumption is proposed as more sustainable alternative to conventional consumption. The purpose of this study is the exploration of consumers’ motives to participate in collaborative apparel consumption. Findings suggest that consumers’ intention to participate in collaborative apparel consumption is mainly influenced by financial benefits, convenience and sustainability awareness.
Today many vertical retailers are operating different sales channels at the same time and are respon-sible for the range of products in all sales channels. The purpose of this paper is to examine whether for vertical fashion retailers a format-specific assortment policy can be observed on the German mar-ket. To investigate this topic in addition to secondary data of a literature research, quantitative prima-ry data was collected through a structured observation by conducting store checks. The combination provides insights into the research topic, allows to build hypotheses and to get a current and specific answer on the research topic. The study revealed all vertical retailers exploit the advantage of unlim-ited capacity of the online shop by offering in this channel mainly the broadest and deepest assort-ment. Within the retail store the vertical retailers focus on offering full-price goods for the current season in full size sets. Compared to the online shop here are less styles sophisticated presented and adjusted on the sales floor. For the outlet channel all brands showed a higher density of products and at least a price reduction of 30 per cent. The present paper is limited by time, depth and language of secondary data collection. As the study only conducted quantitative data within limited observations additional visual data over a longer period is necessary.
Cleanable bag filter : comparisons of different testing methods of ageing of filter materials
(2019)
Cleanable bag filters are used to separate dust and other airborne particulate systems. Due to typical process conditions, they are subject to thermal, chemical and mechanical stress during use. The main objective of the IGF project no. 18307 "Investigation of the chemical and thermal degradation of cleanable filter media and improvement of their resistance by surface modification", was the development of a valid test method which can reproduce degradation caused by high temperatures and aggressive chemical atmospheres in a practice-oriented but time-saving manner. Within the IGF project, 2 accelerated ageing methods were applied, both of which have the decisive advantage of investigating damage in the gas phase. Many resistances of filter materials are otherwise carried out by immersing the materials in a mostly liquid damage medium at a defined temperature. These resistances are difficult to transfer ageing in the gas phase.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to describe and discuss the current state of fashion business academic education worldwide. This is motivated by the wish to develop recommendations for the fashion business bachelor program of Reutlingen Uni versity.
Design/methodology/approach: This paper is based on a systematic review of relevant fashion business academic programs. A qualitative comparison is conducted through a categorization of the programs’ content and a score system evaluating the programs’ concepts.
Findings: Key findings were that several factors ensure successful fashion business education: Industry connections, international networks, project-based work, personalized career services and innovative approaches in teaching that include all steps along the fashion value chain.
Research limitations/implications: The research was primarily limited due to the limited number of schools assessed. As a result of the restricted time frame, those schools that were presented could only be analyzed regarding a few aspects. Future research should focus on a more in-depth analysis and further-reaching comparisons, e.g. comparisons with teaching concepts outside the fashion business area or with requirements by fashion companies.
After definition and the history of podcasts, in this book the role of podcasts in the communication strategy is mapped out. Podcast production, podcast types, podcast structures, and podcast advertising are explained. Podcast audiences and podcast in the fashion industry are introduced.
In a thorough explorative analysis, a general exploration of the podcast offering of the fashion sector was conducted. Then a selected podcast analysis with evaluation and conclusion, including a discussion of the future use of podcasts closes this book.
The development and preservation of children’s innate creativity as they enter their professional career has grown in importance due to fundamental changes in today’s economy and society. It is therefore key to understand how teaching strategies can contribute to educational change in the early stages of schooling. Design teaching encompasses a variety of skills that can help schools shift their focus to foster children’s natural ability to “ask why” in their search for learning how to think and create. This article presents the results of an interdisciplinary workshop involving university students aiming to develop new educational approaches to foster children’s creativity through design to be implemented in the elementary school curriculum of the German federal state Baden-Württemberg. To support the workshop participants in providing a holistic concept within a compressed time period, a sustainability framework was included to further articulate their brief. The teams who were composed of chemists, computer scientists, designers, and engineers, followed the Design Thinking process to develop their proposals. A kick-off meeting presenting results of an international qualitative survey with elementary school teachers, as well as expert input during the workshop addressing the relevant topics, provided teams with key information to define their design directions. Concepts designed by each team exhibited a comprehensive solution resulting in both the abstract “education idea” and physical embodiments of the tools. Their outputs included products, interior concepts to be implemented in classrooms, exercises as well as games to support the newly developed educational models. The benefits and limitations of these concepts along with key observations of participants’ interdisciplinary collaboration are presented and discussed herein. Future work will investigate the Design knowledge of German elementary school teachers more in depth and will involve testing the new concepts in German elementary school environments.
For the widespread establishment of a circular economy, the acceptance of used products among consumers is a prerequisite. This paper investigates the customer experience of product service systems related to used products (PSSuP), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models, and aims to point out the offering characteristics that effect customer response and customer engagement. This study was conducted by means of a content analysis-based literature review of 69 empirical PSSuP studies. A frequency analysis of the categories that determine customer experience creation was conducted, as well as a contingency analysis to reveal the interrelationship between these categories. On this basis, the different PSSuP types were compared, and four strategic orientations of customer experience creation in PSSuP are pointed out: price, confidence, convenience, and delight orientation. For each of these strategic orientations, supportive PSSuP offering characteristics are specified. Building on the findings of this study, theoretical and managerial implications for product–service systems marketing are pointed out, and the need for research on the role of information and communication technology as an enabler of customer experience creation in PSSuP is highlighted.
Defining the antecedents of experience co-creation as applied to alternative consumption models
(2019)
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to propose a conceptual framework of experience co-creation that captures the multi-dimensionality of this construct, as well as a research process for defining of the antecedents of experience co-creation.
Design/methodology/approach – The framework of experience co-creation was conceptualized by means of a literature review. Subsequently, this framework was used as the conceptual basis for a qualitative content analysis of 66 empirical papers investigating alternative consumption models (ACMs), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models.
Findings – The qualitative content analysis resulted in 12 categories related to the consumer and 9 related to the ACM offerings that represent the antecedents of experience co-creation. These categories provide evidence that, to a large extent, the developed conceptual framework allows one to capture the multi-dimensionality of the experience co-creation construct.
Research limitations/implications – This study underscores the understanding of experience co-creation as a function of the characteristics of the offering – which are, in turn, a function of the consumers’ motives as determined by their lifeworlds – as well as to service design as an iterative approach to finding, creating and refining service offerings.
Practical implications – The investigation of the antecedents of experience co-creation can enable service providers to determine significant consumer market conditions for forecasting the suitability and viability of their offerings and to adjust their service designs accordingly.
Originality/value – This paper provides a step toward the operationalization of the dimension-related experience co creation construct and presents an approach to defining the antecedents of experience co-creation by considering different research perspectives that can enhance service design research.
The current paper studies the influence of geometrical parameters of the fused deposition modeling (FDM) - fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printing process on printed part strength for open source desktop 3D printers and the most popular material used for that purpose - i.e., polylactic acid (PLA). The study was conducted using a set of different nozzles (0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm) and a range of layer heights from the minimum to maximum physical limits of the machine. To assess print strength, a novel assessment method is proposed. A tubular sample is loaded in the weakest direction (across layers) in a three point bending fixture. Mesostructure evaluation through scanning electronic microscopy (SEM) scans of the samples was used to explain the obtained results. We detected a significant influence of geometric process parameters on sample mesostructure, and consequently, on sample strength.
Sole value – the sneaker resale market :
an explorative analysis of the sneaker resale market
(2018)
The purpose of this explorative research paper is to examine the sneaker resale market and its typical processes in order to give a comprehensive overview over the secondary market for limited edition sneakers. Hypotheses are presented that will be analysed with the empirical research methods of expert interviews and sales data analysis. Amongst other findings, this paper shows that there is a complementary relationship between sneaker brands and the resale market; that product limitation is essential for value increases; that collaborations are necessary for sneaker brands to be relevant on the resale market and that the market is very fragmented. All combined circumstances described in this paper explain the sneaker resale market and its processes. Additionally, some outlooks on the future will be given with the help of expert interviewees and current developments on the market will be discussed.
Purpose of the research paper is to illuminate the subject of assortment policy in the German fashion e‐commerce market. A short literature review is conducted in order to set up a system of characteristics to contemplate assortments on a strategic level. In a second step, structured observations are conducted to quantitatively analyze and compare the assortments of the leading online fashion retailers within Germany. Based on literature, the following characteristics for a classification of assortments can be identified: assortment structure, assortment size, assortment width, assortment depth, assortment consistency and rotation, price level, quality mix, fashion degree as well as the mix of private labels and manufacturer brands. Furthermore, the results of the empirical analysis show that there are currently five leaders within the nalyzed market: Amazon, Otto, Zalando, Baur and About You. Among these five market leaders, Amazon positions itself as a retailer that not only offers an enormous assortment size, but also the lowest entry prices as well as the broadest price dispersion. Through the development of the system of characteristics for assortment analysis and the examination of the current market environment, the findings of this paper contribute to the current state of the art in both theoretical and practical aspects.
Three established test methods employed for evaluating the abrasion or wear resistance of textile materials were compared to gain deeper insight into the specific damaging mechanisms to better understand a possible comparability of the results of the different tests. The knowledge of these mechanisms is necessary for a systematic development of finishing agents improving the wear resistance of textiles. Martindale, Schopper, and Einlehner tests were used to analyze two different fabrics made of natural (cotton) or synthetic (polyethylene terephthalate) fibers, respectively. Samples were investigated by digital microscopy and scanning electron microscopy to visualize the damage. Damage symptoms are compared and discussed with respect to differences in the damaging mechanisms.
Implementation of product-service systems (PSS) requires structural changes in the way that business in manufacturing industries is traditionally conducted. Literature frequently mentions the importance of human resource management (HRM), since people are involved in the entire process of PSS development and employees are the primary link to customers. However, to this day, no study has provided empirical evidence whether and in what way HRM of firms that implement PSS differs from HRM of firms that solely run a traditional manufacturing based business model. The aim of this study is to contribute to closing this gap by investigating the particular HR components of manufacturing firms that implement PSS and compare it with the HRM of firms that do not. The context of this study is the fashion industry, which is an ideal setting since it is a mature and highly competitive industry that is well-documented for causing significant environmental impact. PSS present a promising opportunity for fashion firms to differentiate and mitigate the industry’s ecological footprint. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze data of 102 international fashion firms. Findings reveal a significant higher focus on nearly the entire spectrum of HRM components of firms that implement PSS compared with firms that do not. Empirical findings and their interpretation are utilized to propose a general framework of the role of HRM for PSS implementation. This serves as a departure point for both scholars and practitioners for further research, and fosters the understanding of the role of HRM for managing PSS implementation.
In recent years the share economy has gained widespread success across different industries. Since small firms and new ventures obtain fewer resources, an increased focus on service allows them to differentiate and compete with cost pressure in traditionally manufacturing based industries. There still is a lack of understanding how these firms manage to successfully shift towards service-oriented business models. This paper adopts a dynamic capabilities approach to examine the particular microfoundations that underlie sensing, seizing and reconfiguring dynamic capabilities of early-stage service firms within a traditional retail market. The context of this study is the fashion industry. It is an ideal setting since it is characterized by severe competition, short life cycles, strong cost pressure and high volatility. There are few but increasing examples of entrepreneurial initiatives that try to compete by providing offers to resell, rent or swap clothes. Qualitative data of five early stage fashion ventures is analyzed. Findings reveal that the ability to develop and maintain long-term relationships is essential. It has also been found crucial to acquire knowledge from external network partners, delegate tasks and share information. Furthermore, skills for interacting with customers and adopting consumer feedback are critical. This study provides empirical evidence of dynamic capabilities of early-stage firms and contributes to knowledge on the factors that facilitate servitization in traditionally manufacturing based industries. For practitioners, the presented microfoundations provide a framework of critical tasks that allow them to develop and maintain a service oriented business model.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
This publication is a Technical report by the Joint Research Centre (JRC), the European Commission’s science and knowledge service. It aims to provide evidence-based scientific support to the European policymaking process.
This report provides an bird’s-eye view on the concept and implications of digital identities. After an introduction situating the concept of identity, the report clarifies its contemporary meaning and proposes a definition of reference. Subsequently, the authors examine the consequences of the translation of the concept of identity into the digital, internet connected world. They then analyse the particularities and consequences of this translation, which allows them to situate and define the concept of digital identities.
Finally, they conclude with the challenges that digital identity poses to the digital citizen in the attempt to manage and protect its attributes with the advent of Internet of Things and blockchain technology.
This paper investigates if food ^ retailing mobile applications from Germany, Austria, USA and the United Kingdom are meant to stay a marginal topic in grocery shopping, or if they have the potential to significantly shape the future of grocery retailing by serving as competitive advantages that can fulfil customer requirements and satisfaction. It has filtered out success factors in form of functions of grocery apps and it has extracted key competencies that can be used to create customer value. The Kano model can help selecting the right app functions. But, there are other prerequisites, like customers’ general attitude towards technology and their acceptance towards any kind of apps, that play an important role looking at the big picture of apps in grocery retailing. However, this paper has contributed one vital part of giving more importance to apps in grocery retailing in form of app functions that clearly deliver customer value. In short, apps that fit customers’ needs and that provide usability and convenience clearly have the potential to shape the future of grocery retailing - if key barriers towards app use are eliminated and if incentives are given that overcome scepticism.
A case study with four German fashion retail brands was conducted in order to measure the performance of their Omnichannel services. In detail, their Click & Collect service was analyzed. Click & Collect is one of the first introduced Omnichannel services in fashion retailing. Omnichannel services integrate different sales and communication channels providing a seamless customer journey experience. Offline, online, and mobile app customer experiences should provide a seamless customer experience. Omnichannel performance of the four retailers Decathlon, Hunkemöller, Massimo Dutti and Galeria Kaufhof was measured via mystery shopping. A seamless customer journey experience is not yet a standard in German fashion retailing. The four companies differ in many process details. The biggest market potential and the recommendation for further research emerges in deficits of the offline store Omnichannel customer experience. Here, all four case companies have room to improve. Best overall results regarding the integration of offline, online and mobile shops were found with Hunkemöller, followed by Decathlon, Massimo Dutti, and Galeria Kaufhof.
Using the damage area as a quantification method for the Martindale test is a promising method to compare textile finishes without the need to test to full destruction. In addition, it could be shown that the results of Martindale tests performed with different pressure loads can be scaled to identical functional shape. If these results can be verified, this method would be a simplification of abrasive testing for different application areas.
As the market penetration of alternative fuel vehicles is still uncertain, defining green design cues for their design is of specific relevance to target environmentally conscious customers. This paper is a review of the existing literature aiming at summarizing the market penetration scenarios of alternative fuel vehicles over the next years, consumer demand for sustainable materials, and present methodologies to represent characteristics of eco-friendly mobility in the interior of alternative fuel vehicles. In particular, present attempts to correlate materials with green design cues are explored. Finally, projections for the future of the field are suggested, posing enchanting research questions to further unify the field of environmentally conscious design with the domain of product personality.
The aim of this paper is to examine the impact of sustainability communication in the fashion industry on the customers’ behavior with a focus on consumers’ perception regarding websites with sustainability-specific content. Based on a profound literature review, a projective method in form of two dummy websites is developed. Both websites illustrate sustainability communication with comprehensive and transparent information demonstrating a credible, trustful and serious commitment. Additionally, both sites have the same structure and an appealing, visualized website design as well as a customer oriented communication. While each website consists of almost the same aspects such as Vision & Mission, Value chain, Corporate Commitment, Working Conditions, Environment, Social Commitment and documents such as a Sustainability Report and Code of Conduct, they differ enormously in the sustainability-specific content. For instance, website 1 represents a sustainable and responsible company communicating sustainable issues about eco-friendly materials, fair working conditions, ecological production and their social commitment. It further includes eco-friendly wash and care advices as seen by reformation to remember consumers to take care of the environment, e.g. to wash cold or by using ecological detergents. In contrast, website 2 does not represent a sustainable and responsible fashion brand. It also does not communicate sustainable efforts or a sustainable engagement. Rather it is about offering trendy, low-priced fast- fashion products, produced under unfair working conditions with wages and working hours as usual terms in production countries with a focus on style and design. Regarding website 2, all raw materials have been produced conventionally in developing countries and are therefore not eco-friendly, resulting in a pollution of the environment due to long transport routes. Additionally, the website voices the wish to improve the chances for developing animal protection only minimally, showing that the company is not socially committed. Although website 2 focuses on transparency and a customer-oriented communication, it is not sustainable. Both websites are tested via an online survey. A total of 90 fashion students participated in the sample.
The wet chemical deposition of solution processed transparent conducting oxides (TCO) provides an alternative low cost and economical deposition technique to realize large-areas of conducting films. Since the price for the most common TCO Indium Tin Oxide rises enormously, Aluminum Zinc Oxide (AZO) as alternative TCO reaches more and more interest. The optoelectronical properties of nanoparticle coatings strongly depend beneath the porosity of the coating on the shape and size of the used particles. By using bigger or rod-shaped particles it is possible to minimize the amount of grain boundaries resulting in an improvement of the electrical properties, whereas particles bigger than 100 nm should not be used if highly transparent coatings are necessary as these big particles scatter the visible light and lower the transmittance of the coatings. In this work we present a simple method to synthesize AZO particles with different shape and size, but comparable electronical properties. We use a simple, well reproducible polyol method for synthesis and influence the shape and size of the particles by adding different amounts of water to the precursor solution. We can show that the addition of aluminum as dopant strongly hinders the crystal growth but the addition of water counteracts this, so that both, spherical and rod-shaped particles can be obtained.
The fashion industry is well documented for causing significant environmental impact. Product-service systems (PSS) present a promising way to solve this challenge. PSS shift the focus toward complementary service offers, which decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption and entails dematerialization. However, PSS are not ecoefficient by nature but need to be accompanied by corporate environmental management (CEM) practices. The objective of this article is to examine the potential of PSS to contribute to the environmental sustainability of today's fashion industry by investigating if fashion firms with a positive attitude toward PSS implementation also pursue goals related to the ecological environment. For this purpose, analysis of variance (ANOVA) is conducted to analyze data of 102 fashion firms. Results reveal that the diffusion of PSS in today's fashion industry is low and few firms consider implementing PSS. Results, furthermore, demonstrate that PSS implementation is positively related to CEM. This indicates that existing structures of CEM favor PSS implementation and unlock the eco-efficient potential of implemented PSS in the fashion industry.
Case study: Marillion
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to highlight the use of crowdfunding,
demonstrated by a case study about the rock band Marillion. The research
methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the rock band Marillion and how they invented crowdfunding has been drafted. Findings suggest that the crowdfunding concept is no new phenomenon, since the rock band Marillion has investigated the business model. Recently, the funding method is applied to the fashion industry; hence it is efficient and engaging to finance projects by that specific business model. A limitation of this paper is that the topic of crowdfunding is new to the fashion business and needs further research and tests until they are practicable to interpret. Results show that there is a high potential for using crowdfunding in fashion by reaching a long-term change in this industry.
The purpose of this paper is to identify key success factors of Crowdfunding in the Music Business in order to discuss their applicability to the Fashion Industry. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic and non-academic references. Key research findings include four main success factors. First explains the innovative and adaptive nature of the music industry caused by historical evolution. Second strong commitment and connection to the fan base is identified as success factor. Third manageable effort for the realisation on a large scale reduces the risk of a failure. And, last success factor describes the successful implementation of campaign specific aspects. The discussion finally shows that three of four success factors can be adapted to the Fashion Business. Due to little scientific research in the field of Crowdfunding in the Music Business, the success factors are worked out independently, based on general literature. Accordingly, quantitative testing and further analysis is recommended.
This article aims to point out main changes of the music industry since the advent of the Internet and how the fashion industry can learn from it. Different factors are researched with a birds-eye perspective by conducting a literature review. The results are limited by the availability of sources and the implications are based on a theoretical foundation. For further research the conclusions drawn for the fashion industry have to be proven empirically. After reading the paper, the reader has rather an overview of the changed circumstances and how the music industry reacted than deep knowledge in each field. More specifically, this paper gives an overview of the changed circumstances due to digitalisation and how the music industry reacted within. As both the fashion and music industry have their similarities, they are limited in their comparability, since fashion products cannot be fully digitalized like a music record. The fact that the music industry had to reinvent itself rapidly to adopt new possibilities and chances results from the article. To make use of the sustainability trend and to build communities in order to include them in the creation process are the major suggestions for the fashion industry.
Case study: EMP
(2018)
The purpose of this research paper is to investigate the business model of the retailer EMP. The in-depth literature review develops the relevance of merchandising for the rock and heavy metal scene and the relevance of EMP within that market. Literature about existing approaches of multi-channelling has been reviewed. Based on this theoretical framework, a case study of EMP has been drafted. Findings are discussed, focusing on the performance of EMP as a multi-channel and lifestyle retailer and additionally provide valuable managerial implications for fashion retailers. Implications for further research address lifestyle retailers to contribute to the findings or validate them with different examples. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholar literature concerning EMP in particular. Hence, magazines, journals and information provided by the company serve as reference. Even though EMP provided some information, gathering any information about how EMP manages multi channelling operationally was not possible.
The purpose of this research paper is to find out to which extent rap music merchandise is influencing the fashion world of today. The research design is mainly created through analysing Internet sources. The key findings of this paper describe the way rap merchandise is created and distributed nowadays. Furthermore, is explained how an idea becomes trend and how rap artists influence trend creation, especially through social media channels. The topic around rap merchandising products and strategies is a very new one, thus there is barely any literature to find. Nevertheless, trend leading online music platforms and blogs offer a lot of grey literature about the research topic. In this paper, the analysis of rap merchandise and fashion is focused on clothing items to create a better understanding in which dimension the influence of rap merchandise on the fashion world is given.
The purpose of this paper is to find out how musicians are able to differentiate themselves from their competitors by using their style. Casting shows and the evolution of the contestants’ style during and after the show serve as a paradigm for creating differentiation by style. The method of research was diverse but largely drawn from research papers as well as online magazines and newspapers. Within the scope of the research, it was feasible to draw on a varied range of sources to answer the research question. In the course of this research paper, it was possible to define key factors for a musician to create differentiation by style in modern times. By examining the style of casting show contestants, it was explored to which extent they transform from rather normal people to pop stars. In reducing the detailed analysis of casting shows to three shows and contestants, only a broad overview was provided. The paper is of interest to those working for casting shows in order to develop those.
Co-design and endorsement
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to determine the success factors regarding celebrities of the music business involved in fashion advertising. That famous people have the power to help brands and products to stand out among others is proven and popular. This paper is concentrating on successful musicians and their endorsements of fashion brands and examines the benefits for both, the brand and the artist. It investigates how consumer perceives brand and artist collaboration and what factors enhance the purchase intention and increase sales. This paper is structured in the following manner: The introduction presents the research question and sets the aim for the paper, followed by the analysis of the existing literature. The paper ends with conclusions, limitations and suggestions for further research.
Music is omnipresent and an important factor for cultural and social development. Thus, the connection between music and fashion has rarely been contemplated yet. In particular, this research paper is concerned with the connection between music and fashion communication, with special interest to its emotional background in the context of neuromarketing. The research question of how music affects the perception of a fashion brand, when regarded as emotional stimulus in the context of neuromarketing, has been investigated by researching existing literature. Without attempting to explain neurological processes to their core, this paper tries to give an overview of how music generates emotion and how this can be used for branding activities. This led to the result that music causes positive emotional response of the consumer, when used in marketing actions. Through emotional response, the perception, identity, and recall of a brand are strongly influenced.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the role of in-store music in the fashion retail environment and to describe music as an atmospheric building tool in order to influence customer behaviour with emotions created by musical compositions. As offline retailer try to differentiate their stores through shopping experiences, atmospherics like visuals, scent and sound are appropriate tools to reinforce brand image and therefore customers’ willingness to enter, explore and purchase. Music can be a powerful primary element in creating or enhancing sensory experiences of shoppers and serves as a powerful connection to emotions. Focus of the literature review lies on the emotions which are triggered though different musical characteristics and then affect the customer behaviour. The paper offers a concisely presented review and highlights crucial aspects on what role in-store music has on customers’ perception of atmosphere, emotions and behaviour.
This paper is purposed to examine the impact of grunge music on fashion and to explain how grunge music is reflected in grunge style. The research methodology applied is a case study on grunge music and grunge style. Key findings suggest that different elements of grunge music had a great impact on the evolution of grunge style: Mentality and philosophy of the movement, musical style and sound as well as lyrical concerns are incorporated by grunge style. Commercial exploitation of grunge partly led to its downfall. Moreover, the original spirit of the movement is not commonly shared by all sub-genres’ respective contemporary styles. Musicians had great impact on the evolution of grunge style and unintentional rose to style icons. The research is limited by the amount of academic literature concerning the connection between grunge music and grunge style. Therefore, journal entries and blogs are used as reference as well.
Purpose of the present research paper is to examine the current state of research, define dimensions of research and reveal gaps in research on the topic of ‘Fashion and music’. To do so, the methodology of a scientific literature review was applied. The literature review revealed that music and its business mainly serve the fashion industry as influencer on trends, image building marketing tool, support of fashion processes and contributor to the development of innovative fashion products. Both industries provide identify-forming features, unify their mutual target groups in a certain lifestyle and thus enlarge their own target market. This results in increased brand awareness, image and credibility, emotionalized brand experience, differentiation and sophisticated brand identity. The present paper can serve as the basis for further research. It is limited by the time, depth and availability of data collection, the predominance of grey literature and its focus on the modern relationship of fashion and music.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between the fashion and music industry. It focuses on the idea that digitalization has broken the rules of the traditional music industry value chain. This touches both the production and the consumption side of music. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as the music industry has been big supplier of fashion trends itself. The absence of this supplier plus the changes within the fashion industry itself by the fast-fashion development are considered as a reason for more competition and therefore price pressure. An in-depth future research about the fashion and music system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
Fashion & music
(2018)
This book will broaden readers’ understanding of the links between the music and fashion industries. It highlights the challenges currently facing the fashion industry in terms of hyper-competition, definition of ever faster trends, changing consumer demands etc. In fact, the fashion industry is heavily influenced by the digital revolution in the music industry, which has changed the face of individual music consumption and social reference, and therefore, also has impacts on fashion consumption and social reference. This understanding is crucial in order to realign any fashion company’s strategies to the demands of modern fashion consumers. In terms of content, the book first discusses the social perspective of fashion and music. This includes an analysis of music as a key influencer of fashion trends, both theoretically and on the basis of a case study on grunge music. Then the role of music in the fashion business is addressed, and covers in-store music and the role of music in fashion communication. Following up, the role of fashion in the music business is analyzed. This includes the trend of co-design of fashion collections, music artists’ role of differentiation by style, and the market for music fashion merchandise articles (both theoretically and drawing on a case study). In closing, potential lessons learned from the music industry are developed for the fashion industry. This includes an analysis of the digital revolution and the advent of the crowdfunding idea (both theoretically and in a case study).
Indium tin oxide (ITO) particle coatings are known for high transparency in the visible, good conductive properties and near-infrared absorption. These properties depend on ITO particle's stiochiometric composition, defects and size. Here we present a method to gradually change ITO particle's optical properties by a simple and controlled laser irradiation process. The defined irradiation process and controlled energy dose input allows one to engineer the absorption and transsmission of coatings made from these particles. We investigate the role of the surrounding solvent, influence of laser fluence and the specific energy dose targeting modification of the ITO particle's morphology and chemistry by stepwise laser irradiation in a free liquid jet. TEM, SEM, EDX, XPS, XRD and Raman are used to elucidate the structural, morphological and chemical changes of the laser-induced ITO particles. On the basis of these results the observed modification of the optical properties is tentatively attributed to chemical changes, e.g. laser-induced defects or partial reduction.
Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the value of the web representation of certain fashion hot spots and how these results can be shown on fashion maps in an illustrated way.
Design/methodology/approach: A new ranking was created, which was evaluated with a self-instructed index, to gain solid results. Numbers were collected from Google, Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and web.alert.io. Additionally, fashion maps were created for an illustrative visualization of the results.
Findings: Compared with the ranking of a trend forecasting agency, called Global Language Monitor, which concepted a ranking of non-virtual fashion cities, the web representation and therefore the ranking of the research project, differs mainly in the situation of the cities among the first 10, viz. the rank on which a city occurs, but fewer in the actual cities mentioned.
Research limitations: The research was limited to subjective analysis of data, leading to partly subjective results, as well as the selected number of social media platforms, that had been used.
Originality/value: This is the first study to explore the web representation value of fashion metropolises in comparison to their non-virtual ranking. The results are partly based on results that already existed, concerning transformations of fashion cities or in general which cities own the status of a fashion city.
This case study describes the emerging customized omnichannel loyalty solution of Marc O’Polo from a customer’s perspective. After the introduction of Marc O’Polo and their general omnichannel strategy, the loyalty program is described in detail, like Marc O’Polo for members and the mobile app, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities. A discussion chapter closes the case study with research implications and open questions for Marc O’Polo.
Loyalty programs become more important in an omnichannel environment of fashion retail business. After the definition of customer loyalty and loyalty programs the main characteristics of omnichannel loyalty programs are described. As touchpoints of omnichannel loyalty programs mobile, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are detailed. A discussion chapter closes with recommendations for fashion retailers.
This case study of Breuninger aims to analyze how Breuninger adapts to the emerging omnichannel environment in fashion business. From a consumer’s perspective Breuninger and the general omnichannel strategy of Breuninger is explained, before the loyalty program of Breuninger is analyzed in detail. Key factors as the mobile app and the mobile Breuninger card, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are described. A discussion chapter finalizes the case.
There is no doubt that the amplification of channel integration towards an omni-channel structure is a powerful idea whose time has finally come. The digitally cross-linked world postulates all-encompassing, ubiquitous, and unobtrusive future services. In the concomitant, increasingly competitive market, retailers are starting to lay the foundation for omnichannel, meeting the expectations of a digitally cunning audience wanting their shopping experience to be as seamless and uncomplicated as possible. Nevertheless, recent researches show that there are still enough avenues for further research on omnichannel. Until now, the performance of companies was solely considered by experts from a suppliers’ point of view. It would be rather interesting to find out whether the desire to meet the increased cus-tomer expectations is also recognized by the customers themselves. This paper seeks to answering how the purchasing behavior has changed and what customers demand. In addition, it elaborates the opportunities that are promoted by omni-channel. Searching out all the effects, the paper will get to a final step, where it can be attested how the omnichannel performance of fashion and lifestyle retailers can be measured from a consumers’ perspective by developing an exclusive index. The study is confined to four fashion and lifestyle retailers: Hugo Boss AG, Levi Strauss & Co, Pull and Bear as well as COS. Using the scientific method of mystery shopping and a multi-item checklist including 54 key performance indicators, the paper aims to examine to which extend the four selected retailers provide a seamless customer journey, according to the five decision-making phases.
In a globalized world the importance of a proper segmentation method for identifying target consumers has been increasing. Vast majority of the research in this area focuses on the usage or development of different techniques. Lifestyle is a good criterion for dividing people into groups which then can be better targeted. This article addresses the research question, which classical methods exist to segment markets with the aid of lifestyle. The purpose of this paper is to illustrate several instruments, such as A.I.O., Roper Consumer Styles, VALS-Method, the Sinus-Milieus, Sigma-Milieus, RISC-Method and Semiometrie but also Discriminant and Conjoint Analysis which proved of value in the past. Furthermore it deals with the benefits of this methods but weaknesses are also considered. Therefore several existing literature is examined, and information is collected by institutes providing the typologies. Obvious is, that new methods e.g. predictive analytics already play a major role in marketing, because it can be found much literature about it. In the literature research also appear research implications, because besides the provided information from institutes and journals, there is hardly no data to find if and how companies use the instruments. Furthermore, some important databases cannot be scanned because they are not accessible without paying.
The following paper is dealing with the issue on which actual consumer lifestyle segmentation methods there are for particular European countries and accordingly for Europe as a whole. This is important for corporations to be able to place their products accurately by a consumer orientated marketing concerning the constant change of values and minds. Researching current literature, internet sources and documents, the state of the science is presented by a detailed description of the most popular lifestyle segmentation methods used in European countries. In addition to that, these instruments are discussed individually and then compared to each other. All instruments, the Sinus-Milieus, Euro-Socio-Styles, Roper-Consumer-Styles, RISC and Mosaic, are serving the same purpose even so they differ pretty much from each other. Each market research company has its own method to generate their model just as different segments and definitions for them. Furthermore every segmentation method is illustrated in a different way. This paper demonstrates all these instruments in detail and shows its advantages and disadvantages. Summing up literature research concerning the main research question, there are several models segmenting consumers in different lifestyle groups for e.g. in Germany, France or Great Britain, but still less models referring to the entire European market.
Knowing your customer, i.e. your target market, is critical for the success of a company and its’ products. The current socio-demographic changes in the United States issue new challenges to marketers and practitioners. Actual fashion consumer seg-mentation approaches within the United States have received little attention in media and scholarly literature. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to present the existing academic literature addressing fashion consumer style preferences, particularly highlighting the most promising consumer groups within the United States: Hispanics and African-Americans. For this, a literature review was chosen with a subsequent critical discussion and comparison of both segments including findings of academic researches as well as market research agencies and actual lifestyle clustering approaches regarding these consumer groups. The findings show, whilst the published literature on consumer segmentation in the apparel industry provides only a surficial understanding of the fashion buying behaviors of Hispanics and Black Americans, it could be found that both ethnic groups are highly interested in fashion, price sensitive, and they are over indexed in apparel spending habits. Especially within the Hispanic population factors such as age and level of acculturation play a vital role in the purchasing choice of apparel, footwear and accessories and require further research.
This research is about Omnichannel Retailing and addresses the question how the omnichanneling of retailers in the fashion market can be measured. Our sources will include books, interviews, newspapers and scientific databases.
Omnichanneling is a current topic in the fashion market, retailers all over the world face the question on how to adapt to the challenges Omnichannel Retailing sets. We are going to define what Omnichanneling is by explaining the differences between Multiple-, Multi-, Cross- and Omnichannel Retailing. After we defined omnichanneling itself, we took a set of 26 retailers to evaluate regarding their Omnichannel capabilities. Then we create an index with criteria that can measure the Omnichannel capability of each retailer.
The Omnichannel Score is based on 31 criteria, which analyze the retailers in offline, online, mobile and social aspects enables to see differences between retailers. Our findings were that retailers in the US fashion market are more advanced in Omnichannel Retailing than retailers in the German fashion market. Our top three Omnichannel retailers were Sears with an Omnichannel Score of 91, followed by KOHL’S and Marks&Spencer, both with a Omnichannel Score of 88. The best Omnichannel Retailer from Germany was Adidas with the fourth place and an Omnichannel Score of 81.
Purpose of this research paper is to assess the state of the art concerning the relevance of consumer segmentation models in the fashion industry with regards to current changes in technology, market structure and consumer behavior.
The paper is composed of a qualitative literature review and an empirical study in form of a survey. They are contrasted in order to identify both similarities and differences.
Findings reveal that consumer segmentation is still relevant. Notwithstanding, an adaptation of classification models is necessary according to occurring changes. External models, segmenting consumers by means of lifestyle or fashion typologies, are used. However, it is striking that most companies of the empirical study already apply internal segmentation models with tendency to rise. Moreover, research has shown that consumer classification models in the USA make use of different criteria than in Europe.
Language barriers within the literature review and a low sample size in the empirical study give research limitations. Future management implications can be directed to the identification of procedures for the efficient application of internal segmentation models.
The purpose of this paper is to determine the relevance of social media for luxury brand management. It employs both a multi-methodological approach: After analyzing the online performance of the three luxury brands Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the empirical research includes a survey as well as an eye tracking test executed with Tobii Studio. The findings reveal that online and social media have given luxury fashion businesses the opportunity to establish a sustainable interaction with their customers and distinguish themselves from the competition. Still, the online business holds many challenges for luxury companies to overcome. This paper gives instructions as to how social media can be effectively incorporated into a luxury company.