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Product-Service Systems (PSS) in the fashion industry : an analysis of intra-organizational factors
(2018)
The fashion industry is a vast industry that has grown tremendously over the last decades. This growth causes significant environmental impact since the production of clothes involves high input of energy, water, chemicals and generates great volumes of waste. Even though fashion firms have started to address this challenge by adopting environmental standards, it has turned out that the sole use of eco-friendly material and new manufacturing techniques is insufficient. Instead, sustainable business models are increasingly gaining attention to solve the environmental problems. Offers to rent, swap, repair or redesign clothes are among the most prominent and promising examples. For analytical purposes, these concepts can be assigned to the growing research stream of Product-Service Systems (PSS) that shift the focus from the pure sale of a product toward complementary or substitutional service offers. This decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption, prolongs the garments' lifetime and thus diminishes both material input and appertaining waste. Besides environmental sustainability, PSS imply potential economic benefits for organizations. Particularly in highly competitive industries like the fashion industry, PSS allow firms to differentiate, better compete with cost pressure and mitigate the risk of being imitated by rivels since service is more difficult to replicate. However, fashion PSS are still mainly operated in a niche market by small firms and have yet to be anchored in the mainstream fashion industry.
The current paper studies the influence of geometrical parameters of the fused deposition modeling (FDM) - fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printing process on printed part strength for open source desktop 3D printers and the most popular material used for that purpose - i.e., polylactic acid (PLA). The study was conducted using a set of different nozzles (0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm) and a range of layer heights from the minimum to maximum physical limits of the machine. To assess print strength, a novel assessment method is proposed. A tubular sample is loaded in the weakest direction (across layers) in a three point bending fixture. Mesostructure evaluation through scanning electronic microscopy (SEM) scans of the samples was used to explain the obtained results. We detected a significant influence of geometric process parameters on sample mesostructure, and consequently, on sample strength.
Sole value – the sneaker resale market :
an explorative analysis of the sneaker resale market
(2018)
The purpose of this explorative research paper is to examine the sneaker resale market and its typical processes in order to give a comprehensive overview over the secondary market for limited edition sneakers. Hypotheses are presented that will be analysed with the empirical research methods of expert interviews and sales data analysis. Amongst other findings, this paper shows that there is a complementary relationship between sneaker brands and the resale market; that product limitation is essential for value increases; that collaborations are necessary for sneaker brands to be relevant on the resale market and that the market is very fragmented. All combined circumstances described in this paper explain the sneaker resale market and its processes. Additionally, some outlooks on the future will be given with the help of expert interviewees and current developments on the market will be discussed.
Der Markt für technische Textilien wird auch in Zukunft ein stetes Wachstum verzeichnen, schon jetzt hat der weltweite Faserverbrauch die Schwelle von 100 Mill. Tonnen jährlich überschritten. Bereits ohne den Einbezug von Verbundwerkstoffen und Vliesstoffen werden in etwa 30 Mill. Tonnen zu technischen Textilien verarbeitet.
Im Forschungsprojekt "Innovative Methoden für die teilnehmerorientierte Schulungsentwicklung in der beruflichen Weiterbildung" wurden die Prinzipien des Design Thinkings und der nutzerzentrierten Produktentwicklung auf die Konzeption von Veranstaltungen der beruflichen Weiterbildung transferiert. In zwei Vergleichsgruppen mit Schulungsteilnehmenden eines Industriepartners und eines öffentlich-rechtlichen Anbieters konnte aufgezeigt werden, dass es möglich ist, Weiterbildungsveranstaltungen mit Methoden des Design Thinkings zu erforschen und weiterzuentwickeln und damit die User Experience - das Nutzererleben der Teilnehmenden - positiv zu beeinflussen.
Mit der vorliegenden Broschüre möchten wir allen studentischen und wissenschaftlichen Hilfskräften sowie Studierenden, die eine solche Tätigkeit in Betracht ziehen, helfen, ihre Rechte kennenzulernen und durchzusetzen. Und wir möchten sie ermuntern, sich in der Bildungsgewerkschaft GEW gemeinsam mit Kolleginnen und Kollegen für die Verbesserung ihrer Rechte zu engagieren.
Implementation of product-service systems (PSS) requires structural changes in the way that business in manufacturing industries is traditionally conducted. Literature frequently mentions the importance of human resource management (HRM), since people are involved in the entire process of PSS development and employees are the primary link to customers. However, to this day, no study has provided empirical evidence whether and in what way HRM of firms that implement PSS differs from HRM of firms that solely run a traditional manufacturing based business model. The aim of this study is to contribute to closing this gap by investigating the particular HR components of manufacturing firms that implement PSS and compare it with the HRM of firms that do not. The context of this study is the fashion industry, which is an ideal setting since it is a mature and highly competitive industry that is well-documented for causing significant environmental impact. PSS present a promising opportunity for fashion firms to differentiate and mitigate the industry’s ecological footprint. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze data of 102 international fashion firms. Findings reveal a significant higher focus on nearly the entire spectrum of HRM components of firms that implement PSS compared with firms that do not. Empirical findings and their interpretation are utilized to propose a general framework of the role of HRM for PSS implementation. This serves as a departure point for both scholars and practitioners for further research, and fosters the understanding of the role of HRM for managing PSS implementation.
Der Markt für technische Textilien ... wird auch in Zukunft stetig wachsen. Vor dem Hintergrund steigender Rohstoffpreise, zunehmender Rohstoffknappheit, aber auch durch wachsendes Umweltbewusstsein und neue technische Regelungen, drängen auch bei technischen Textilien Themen wie Ressourceneffizienz, Kreislaufwirtschaft und Recycling immer weiter in den Vordergrund. Was im Bekleidungsbereich bereits Usus ist, wird sich früher oder später auch in den Bereich der technischen Texilien übertragen. Zudem ist eine signifikante Erhöhung der Recyclingquote erkärtes Ziel der Bundesregierung.
In recent years the share economy has gained widespread success across different industries. Since small firms and new ventures obtain fewer resources, an increased focus on service allows them to differentiate and compete with cost pressure in traditionally manufacturing based industries. There still is a lack of understanding how these firms manage to successfully shift towards service-oriented business models. This paper adopts a dynamic capabilities approach to examine the particular microfoundations that underlie sensing, seizing and reconfiguring dynamic capabilities of early-stage service firms within a traditional retail market. The context of this study is the fashion industry. It is an ideal setting since it is characterized by severe competition, short life cycles, strong cost pressure and high volatility. There are few but increasing examples of entrepreneurial initiatives that try to compete by providing offers to resell, rent or swap clothes. Qualitative data of five early stage fashion ventures is analyzed. Findings reveal that the ability to develop and maintain long-term relationships is essential. It has also been found crucial to acquire knowledge from external network partners, delegate tasks and share information. Furthermore, skills for interacting with customers and adopting consumer feedback are critical. This study provides empirical evidence of dynamic capabilities of early-stage firms and contributes to knowledge on the factors that facilitate servitization in traditionally manufacturing based industries. For practitioners, the presented microfoundations provide a framework of critical tasks that allow them to develop and maintain a service oriented business model.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
This publication is a Technical report by the Joint Research Centre (JRC), the European Commission’s science and knowledge service. It aims to provide evidence-based scientific support to the European policymaking process.
This report provides an bird’s-eye view on the concept and implications of digital identities. After an introduction situating the concept of identity, the report clarifies its contemporary meaning and proposes a definition of reference. Subsequently, the authors examine the consequences of the translation of the concept of identity into the digital, internet connected world. They then analyse the particularities and consequences of this translation, which allows them to situate and define the concept of digital identities.
Finally, they conclude with the challenges that digital identity poses to the digital citizen in the attempt to manage and protect its attributes with the advent of Internet of Things and blockchain technology.
This paper investigates if food ^ retailing mobile applications from Germany, Austria, USA and the United Kingdom are meant to stay a marginal topic in grocery shopping, or if they have the potential to significantly shape the future of grocery retailing by serving as competitive advantages that can fulfil customer requirements and satisfaction. It has filtered out success factors in form of functions of grocery apps and it has extracted key competencies that can be used to create customer value. The Kano model can help selecting the right app functions. But, there are other prerequisites, like customers’ general attitude towards technology and their acceptance towards any kind of apps, that play an important role looking at the big picture of apps in grocery retailing. However, this paper has contributed one vital part of giving more importance to apps in grocery retailing in form of app functions that clearly deliver customer value. In short, apps that fit customers’ needs and that provide usability and convenience clearly have the potential to shape the future of grocery retailing - if key barriers towards app use are eliminated and if incentives are given that overcome scepticism.
A case study with four German fashion retail brands was conducted in order to measure the performance of their Omnichannel services. In detail, their Click & Collect service was analyzed. Click & Collect is one of the first introduced Omnichannel services in fashion retailing. Omnichannel services integrate different sales and communication channels providing a seamless customer journey experience. Offline, online, and mobile app customer experiences should provide a seamless customer experience. Omnichannel performance of the four retailers Decathlon, Hunkemöller, Massimo Dutti and Galeria Kaufhof was measured via mystery shopping. A seamless customer journey experience is not yet a standard in German fashion retailing. The four companies differ in many process details. The biggest market potential and the recommendation for further research emerges in deficits of the offline store Omnichannel customer experience. Here, all four case companies have room to improve. Best overall results regarding the integration of offline, online and mobile shops were found with Hunkemöller, followed by Decathlon, Massimo Dutti, and Galeria Kaufhof.
Using the damage area as a quantification method for the Martindale test is a promising method to compare textile finishes without the need to test to full destruction. In addition, it could be shown that the results of Martindale tests performed with different pressure loads can be scaled to identical functional shape. If these results can be verified, this method would be a simplification of abrasive testing for different application areas.
Im Zuge von REACH wurden gängige hocheffektive halogenierte Flammschutzmittel verboten, da diese unter dem Verdach stehen, kanzerogen, mutagen und teratogen zu sein. Zur Zeit fehlen entsprechende Alternativen. Daher werden am DTNW neue umweltfreundliche und halogenfreie Flammschutzmittel auf der Basis von Phosphor- und Stickstoffverbindungen entwickelt, um einen entsprechenden Flammschutz zu gewährleisten. Neue Möglichkeiten werden im Rahmen dieses Artikels vorgestellt.
Es wird eine Möglichkeit zur Quantifizierung der Schädigung von Geweben bei der Martindale-Flachscheuerung vorgestellt, die eine interessante Möglichkeit darstellt, vergleichende Untersuchungen durchzuführen, auch wenn die Gewebe nicht bis zu einem Fadenbruch gescheuert werden. Die Untersuchungen deuten außerdem eine Skalierbarkeit der Scheuerversuche bei unterschiedlichen Anpressdrücken an. Sollte sich diese Beobachtung in weiteren Untersuchungen bestätigen, würde dies eine grundlegende Vereinfachung der Scheuerprüfung für verschiedene Anwendungen bedeuten.
Das vorliegende Buch ist als eine zusammenfassende Bearbeitung der über viele Jahre gesammelten Erkenntnisse im Bereich der Schussfadenzugkraftmessung entstanden. Für die Schusseintragstechniken mit Greifern, Projektilen und Luftstrahl ist es gelungen, Formeln zur Berechnung der Schussfadenzugkräfte zu erarbeiten, die es auch dem Weberei-Praktiker ermöglichen, die maximalen Schussfadenzugkräfte mit guter Genauigkeit voraus zu berechnen. Ausgehend von diesen Ergebnissen kann über einen Vergleich mit dem Schwachstellenniveau des Schussgarns die Entscheidung über die Einsatzfähigkeit des Schussgarns auf der vorgesehenen Webmaschine oder über die Einsatzfähigkeit der vorgesehenen Webmaschine selbst bei der gewünschten Drehzahl herbeigeführt werden.
Kleider machen Drummer
(2018)
Nicht nur Songs machen Musiker bekannt, sondern auch ihr Look: David Bowie, Kurt Cobain, Madonna, Elvis Presley haben durch ihre Musik und ihren Kleidungsstil ganze Generationen geprägt. Viele Drummer legen sehr viel Wert auf Technik - doch wenn man in der Musikbranche erfolgreich sein will, sollte man sich auch seiner Wirkungsweis bewusst sein.
Case study: Marillion
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to highlight the use of crowdfunding,
demonstrated by a case study about the rock band Marillion. The research
methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the rock band Marillion and how they invented crowdfunding has been drafted. Findings suggest that the crowdfunding concept is no new phenomenon, since the rock band Marillion has investigated the business model. Recently, the funding method is applied to the fashion industry; hence it is efficient and engaging to finance projects by that specific business model. A limitation of this paper is that the topic of crowdfunding is new to the fashion business and needs further research and tests until they are practicable to interpret. Results show that there is a high potential for using crowdfunding in fashion by reaching a long-term change in this industry.
The purpose of this paper is to identify key success factors of Crowdfunding in the Music Business in order to discuss their applicability to the Fashion Industry. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic and non-academic references. Key research findings include four main success factors. First explains the innovative and adaptive nature of the music industry caused by historical evolution. Second strong commitment and connection to the fan base is identified as success factor. Third manageable effort for the realisation on a large scale reduces the risk of a failure. And, last success factor describes the successful implementation of campaign specific aspects. The discussion finally shows that three of four success factors can be adapted to the Fashion Business. Due to little scientific research in the field of Crowdfunding in the Music Business, the success factors are worked out independently, based on general literature. Accordingly, quantitative testing and further analysis is recommended.
This article aims to point out main changes of the music industry since the advent of the Internet and how the fashion industry can learn from it. Different factors are researched with a birds-eye perspective by conducting a literature review. The results are limited by the availability of sources and the implications are based on a theoretical foundation. For further research the conclusions drawn for the fashion industry have to be proven empirically. After reading the paper, the reader has rather an overview of the changed circumstances and how the music industry reacted than deep knowledge in each field. More specifically, this paper gives an overview of the changed circumstances due to digitalisation and how the music industry reacted within. As both the fashion and music industry have their similarities, they are limited in their comparability, since fashion products cannot be fully digitalized like a music record. The fact that the music industry had to reinvent itself rapidly to adopt new possibilities and chances results from the article. To make use of the sustainability trend and to build communities in order to include them in the creation process are the major suggestions for the fashion industry.
Case study: EMP
(2018)
The purpose of this research paper is to investigate the business model of the retailer EMP. The in-depth literature review develops the relevance of merchandising for the rock and heavy metal scene and the relevance of EMP within that market. Literature about existing approaches of multi-channelling has been reviewed. Based on this theoretical framework, a case study of EMP has been drafted. Findings are discussed, focusing on the performance of EMP as a multi-channel and lifestyle retailer and additionally provide valuable managerial implications for fashion retailers. Implications for further research address lifestyle retailers to contribute to the findings or validate them with different examples. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholar literature concerning EMP in particular. Hence, magazines, journals and information provided by the company serve as reference. Even though EMP provided some information, gathering any information about how EMP manages multi channelling operationally was not possible.
The purpose of this research paper is to find out to which extent rap music merchandise is influencing the fashion world of today. The research design is mainly created through analysing Internet sources. The key findings of this paper describe the way rap merchandise is created and distributed nowadays. Furthermore, is explained how an idea becomes trend and how rap artists influence trend creation, especially through social media channels. The topic around rap merchandising products and strategies is a very new one, thus there is barely any literature to find. Nevertheless, trend leading online music platforms and blogs offer a lot of grey literature about the research topic. In this paper, the analysis of rap merchandise and fashion is focused on clothing items to create a better understanding in which dimension the influence of rap merchandise on the fashion world is given.
The purpose of this paper is to find out how musicians are able to differentiate themselves from their competitors by using their style. Casting shows and the evolution of the contestants’ style during and after the show serve as a paradigm for creating differentiation by style. The method of research was diverse but largely drawn from research papers as well as online magazines and newspapers. Within the scope of the research, it was feasible to draw on a varied range of sources to answer the research question. In the course of this research paper, it was possible to define key factors for a musician to create differentiation by style in modern times. By examining the style of casting show contestants, it was explored to which extent they transform from rather normal people to pop stars. In reducing the detailed analysis of casting shows to three shows and contestants, only a broad overview was provided. The paper is of interest to those working for casting shows in order to develop those.
Co-design and endorsement
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to determine the success factors regarding celebrities of the music business involved in fashion advertising. That famous people have the power to help brands and products to stand out among others is proven and popular. This paper is concentrating on successful musicians and their endorsements of fashion brands and examines the benefits for both, the brand and the artist. It investigates how consumer perceives brand and artist collaboration and what factors enhance the purchase intention and increase sales. This paper is structured in the following manner: The introduction presents the research question and sets the aim for the paper, followed by the analysis of the existing literature. The paper ends with conclusions, limitations and suggestions for further research.
Music is omnipresent and an important factor for cultural and social development. Thus, the connection between music and fashion has rarely been contemplated yet. In particular, this research paper is concerned with the connection between music and fashion communication, with special interest to its emotional background in the context of neuromarketing. The research question of how music affects the perception of a fashion brand, when regarded as emotional stimulus in the context of neuromarketing, has been investigated by researching existing literature. Without attempting to explain neurological processes to their core, this paper tries to give an overview of how music generates emotion and how this can be used for branding activities. This led to the result that music causes positive emotional response of the consumer, when used in marketing actions. Through emotional response, the perception, identity, and recall of a brand are strongly influenced.
The purpose of this paper is to identify the role of in-store music in the fashion retail environment and to describe music as an atmospheric building tool in order to influence customer behaviour with emotions created by musical compositions. As offline retailer try to differentiate their stores through shopping experiences, atmospherics like visuals, scent and sound are appropriate tools to reinforce brand image and therefore customers’ willingness to enter, explore and purchase. Music can be a powerful primary element in creating or enhancing sensory experiences of shoppers and serves as a powerful connection to emotions. Focus of the literature review lies on the emotions which are triggered though different musical characteristics and then affect the customer behaviour. The paper offers a concisely presented review and highlights crucial aspects on what role in-store music has on customers’ perception of atmosphere, emotions and behaviour.
This paper is purposed to examine the impact of grunge music on fashion and to explain how grunge music is reflected in grunge style. The research methodology applied is a case study on grunge music and grunge style. Key findings suggest that different elements of grunge music had a great impact on the evolution of grunge style: Mentality and philosophy of the movement, musical style and sound as well as lyrical concerns are incorporated by grunge style. Commercial exploitation of grunge partly led to its downfall. Moreover, the original spirit of the movement is not commonly shared by all sub-genres’ respective contemporary styles. Musicians had great impact on the evolution of grunge style and unintentional rose to style icons. The research is limited by the amount of academic literature concerning the connection between grunge music and grunge style. Therefore, journal entries and blogs are used as reference as well.
Aim of this paper is to provide an understanding to which extent music and fashion interdepend and interact referring to the music and fashion trend development, focusing the period from 1950 till today. It further helps the reader to gain an insight if the technology provided influences the development and the access of music and fashion in future. The research for this paper required the use of secondary sources including library and online research. The goal was to gather information about the former and current development of music and fashion. These methods were the best alternatives of secondary sources as they provided trusted results thus enhancing the accuracy of the data being collected. But however they were also limited since mainly data for the fashion and music development of the noughties were limited. This is explainable by the key finding that the development of this time is not as distinct as the one of the former times, when a fashion trend came along with a new music genre or hit, which implies that fashion and music correlate to a certain extent, but characterized by a reactivation of the music and fashion trends of previous times without any new inventions.
Purpose of the present research paper is to examine the current state of research, define dimensions of research and reveal gaps in research on the topic of ‘Fashion and music’. To do so, the methodology of a scientific literature review was applied. The literature review revealed that music and its business mainly serve the fashion industry as influencer on trends, image building marketing tool, support of fashion processes and contributor to the development of innovative fashion products. Both industries provide identify-forming features, unify their mutual target groups in a certain lifestyle and thus enlarge their own target market. This results in increased brand awareness, image and credibility, emotionalized brand experience, differentiation and sophisticated brand identity. The present paper can serve as the basis for further research. It is limited by the time, depth and availability of data collection, the predominance of grey literature and its focus on the modern relationship of fashion and music.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between the fashion and music industry. It focuses on the idea that digitalization has broken the rules of the traditional music industry value chain. This touches both the production and the consumption side of music. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as the music industry has been big supplier of fashion trends itself. The absence of this supplier plus the changes within the fashion industry itself by the fast-fashion development are considered as a reason for more competition and therefore price pressure. An in-depth future research about the fashion and music system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
Fashion & music
(2018)
This book will broaden readers’ understanding of the links between the music and fashion industries. It highlights the challenges currently facing the fashion industry in terms of hyper-competition, definition of ever faster trends, changing consumer demands etc. In fact, the fashion industry is heavily influenced by the digital revolution in the music industry, which has changed the face of individual music consumption and social reference, and therefore, also has impacts on fashion consumption and social reference. This understanding is crucial in order to realign any fashion company’s strategies to the demands of modern fashion consumers. In terms of content, the book first discusses the social perspective of fashion and music. This includes an analysis of music as a key influencer of fashion trends, both theoretically and on the basis of a case study on grunge music. Then the role of music in the fashion business is addressed, and covers in-store music and the role of music in fashion communication. Following up, the role of fashion in the music business is analyzed. This includes the trend of co-design of fashion collections, music artists’ role of differentiation by style, and the market for music fashion merchandise articles (both theoretically and drawing on a case study). In closing, potential lessons learned from the music industry are developed for the fashion industry. This includes an analysis of the digital revolution and the advent of the crowdfunding idea (both theoretically and in a case study).