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Der betriebswirtschaftlichen Forschung in der Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie gelingt es nicht, Lösungen zu erarbeiten, die das Nachhaltigkeitsproblem der Branche lösen. Dies liegt primär an der Art und Weise, wie in unserem Fachbereich geforscht wird. In Anbetracht der Problemstellung kann der starke Fokus auf empirische Arbeiten nur eine begrenzte Hilfestellung leisten. Denn empirische Forschung erfolgt innerhalb der bestehenden Denkmuster und ist tendenziell gegenwarts- oder vergangenheitsorientiert. Für die Lösung zukunftsorientierter Fragestellungen werden jedoch völlig neue Parameter und Logiken benötigt. Ein Umdenken ist gefragt.
Implementation of product-service systems (PSS) requires structural changes in the way that business in manufacturing industries is traditionally conducted. Literature frequently mentions the importance of human resource management (HRM), since people are involved in the entire process of PSS development and employees are the primary link to customers. However, to this day, no study has provided empirical evidence whether and in what way HRM of firms that implement PSS differs from HRM of firms that solely run a traditional manufacturing based business model. The aim of this study is to contribute to closing this gap by investigating the particular HR components of manufacturing firms that implement PSS and compare it with the HRM of firms that do not. The context of this study is the fashion industry, which is an ideal setting since it is a mature and highly competitive industry that is well-documented for causing significant environmental impact. PSS present a promising opportunity for fashion firms to differentiate and mitigate the industry’s ecological footprint. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze data of 102 international fashion firms. Findings reveal a significant higher focus on nearly the entire spectrum of HRM components of firms that implement PSS compared with firms that do not. Empirical findings and their interpretation are utilized to propose a general framework of the role of HRM for PSS implementation. This serves as a departure point for both scholars and practitioners for further research, and fosters the understanding of the role of HRM for managing PSS implementation.
Jeder weiß, dass die Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie ein Nachhaltigkeitsproblem hat und es neuer Lösungsansätze bedarf. Auch Konsumenten und deren Verhalten haben einen entscheidenden Einfluss auf die Erfolgsaussichten einer nachhaltigen Entwicklung. Welche Rolle und Bedeutung obliegt jedoch dem einzelnen Mitarbeiter in diesem Prozess? Und welche Handlungsmaßnahmen können daraus abgeleitet werden? Eine empirische Analyse von über 100 internationalen Bekleidungsunternehmen gibt Aufschluss.
Product-Service Systems (PSS) in the fashion industry : an analysis of intra-organizational factors
(2018)
The fashion industry is a vast industry that has grown tremendously over the last decades. This growth causes significant environmental impact since the production of clothes involves high input of energy, water, chemicals and generates great volumes of waste. Even though fashion firms have started to address this challenge by adopting environmental standards, it has turned out that the sole use of eco-friendly material and new manufacturing techniques is insufficient. Instead, sustainable business models are increasingly gaining attention to solve the environmental problems. Offers to rent, swap, repair or redesign clothes are among the most prominent and promising examples. For analytical purposes, these concepts can be assigned to the growing research stream of Product-Service Systems (PSS) that shift the focus from the pure sale of a product toward complementary or substitutional service offers. This decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption, prolongs the garments' lifetime and thus diminishes both material input and appertaining waste. Besides environmental sustainability, PSS imply potential economic benefits for organizations. Particularly in highly competitive industries like the fashion industry, PSS allow firms to differentiate, better compete with cost pressure and mitigate the risk of being imitated by rivels since service is more difficult to replicate. However, fashion PSS are still mainly operated in a niche market by small firms and have yet to be anchored in the mainstream fashion industry.
The fashion industry is well documented for causing significant environmental impact. Product-service systems (PSS) present a promising way to solve this challenge. PSS shift the focus toward complementary service offers, which decouples customer satisfaction from material consumption and entails dematerialization. However, PSS are not ecoefficient by nature but need to be accompanied by corporate environmental management (CEM) practices. The objective of this article is to examine the potential of PSS to contribute to the environmental sustainability of today's fashion industry by investigating if fashion firms with a positive attitude toward PSS implementation also pursue goals related to the ecological environment. For this purpose, analysis of variance (ANOVA) is conducted to analyze data of 102 fashion firms. Results reveal that the diffusion of PSS in today's fashion industry is low and few firms consider implementing PSS. Results, furthermore, demonstrate that PSS implementation is positively related to CEM. This indicates that existing structures of CEM favor PSS implementation and unlock the eco-efficient potential of implemented PSS in the fashion industry.
In recent years the share economy has gained widespread success across different industries. Since small firms and new ventures obtain fewer resources, an increased focus on service allows them to differentiate and compete with cost pressure in traditionally manufacturing based industries. There still is a lack of understanding how these firms manage to successfully shift towards service-oriented business models. This paper adopts a dynamic capabilities approach to examine the particular microfoundations that underlie sensing, seizing and reconfiguring dynamic capabilities of early-stage service firms within a traditional retail market. The context of this study is the fashion industry. It is an ideal setting since it is characterized by severe competition, short life cycles, strong cost pressure and high volatility. There are few but increasing examples of entrepreneurial initiatives that try to compete by providing offers to resell, rent or swap clothes. Qualitative data of five early stage fashion ventures is analyzed. Findings reveal that the ability to develop and maintain long-term relationships is essential. It has also been found crucial to acquire knowledge from external network partners, delegate tasks and share information. Furthermore, skills for interacting with customers and adopting consumer feedback are critical. This study provides empirical evidence of dynamic capabilities of early-stage firms and contributes to knowledge on the factors that facilitate servitization in traditionally manufacturing based industries. For practitioners, the presented microfoundations provide a framework of critical tasks that allow them to develop and maintain a service oriented business model.
Sol-Gel basierte Flammschutzmittel stellen einen vielversprechenden Ansatz für Textilien dar, gerade im Bereich des Ersatzes von derzeit etablierten halogenhaltigen Flammschutzmitteln. Letztere sind aufgrund ihrer toxikologisch Bedenklichkeit sowie ihrer mitunter bioakkumulierenden Eigenschaften in die Kritik geraten. In diesem Forschungsvorhaben wurde daher untersucht wie aus Phosphor- und stickstoffhaltige Silane halogenfreie Flammschutzmittel verwirklicht werden können. Die Sol-Gel-Schicht fungierte dabei zum einen als nicht brennbarer Binder, zum anderen konnten über das Anbinden von Phosphorgruppen in an kommerziell verfügbare Silane Flammschutz aktive Gruppen direkt mit eingebunden werden. Verschiedene Syntheseansätze wurden dabei verfolgt, wobei durch alle hergestellten N-P-Silane ein Flammschutz nach DIN EN ISO 15025 (Schutzkleidung – Schutz gegen Hitze und Flammen) erhalten wurden. Dabei hängt die Flammschutzwirkung stark von den funktionellen Gruppen und der Oxidationsstufe des Phosphors ab, dabei konnte ein entsprechender Flammschutz bei Auflagen von 5 % erzielt werden. Es konnte gezeigt werden, dass ein Mechanismus auf Basis der Bildung einer Schutzschicht hauptsächlich verantwortlich für den Flammschutz ist. Dieses Ergebnis ist für eine zukünftige, weitere Optimierung entsprechender Ausrüstungen nicht zu unterschätzen. Durch Ausrüstungsversuche im semi-industriellen Maßstab konnte weiterhin gezeigt werden, dass einer großtechnischen Umsetzung der angewandten Ausrüstungen prinzipiell nichts im Wege steht. Je nach funktioneller Gruppe am Phosphor konnte die Wasserlöslichkeit und die Waschstabilität kontrolliert werden. Dabei konnte zum einen gezeigt werden, dass hydrophobes N-P-Silane eine bessere Waschbeständigkeit aufweisen, hydrophile N-P-Silane erhalten diese erst bei Fixierungstemperaturen von 180 °C. Ausgehend von den Ergebnissen konnten sticktstoffgenerierende und cyanursäure-basierte N-P-Silane entwickelt werden, welche sich besonders in einer guten Flammschutzwirkung bei Mischgeweben auszeichnen. Insgesamt konnte innerhalb des Forschungsvorhabens gezeigt werden, dass N-P-Silane hervorragende permanente Flammschutzmittel für Textilien sind und auf welchem Mechanismus dieser Flammschutz begründet ist.
In the IGF project No. 19617 N, nitrogen and phosphorous substituted alkoxysilanes were prepared and their ability to inhibit fire growth and spread for fabrics was explored. To this end, a series of flame retardants were synthesized using different strategies including click chemistry and nucleophilic substitution of commercial organophosphorus compounds with amino-based trialkoxysilanes and/or cyanuric chloride. The new halogen-free and aldehyde-free flame retardants were applied to different fabrics such as cotton (CO), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyamide (PA) and their blends using the well-known pad-dry-cure technique and sol-gel method. The flame-retarding efficiencies were evaluated by EN ISO 15025 test methods (protective clothing-protection against heat and flame method of test for limited flame spread). Good flame retardancy of the hybrid organic-inorganic materials was achieved with the addition of as small amount as 3-5 wt.% for cotton fabrics. Moreover, the water solubility and the washing resistance could be controlled through the functional groups attached to the phosphor atom or through the optimization of the curing temperature. Overall, the research project demonstrated that N-P-silanes are very good permanent flame retardants for textiles.
Im IGF-Projekt Nr. 19617 N wurden stickstoff- und phosphorsubstituierte Alkoxysilane hergestellt und ihre flammhemmenden Eigenschaften für Textilien untersucht. Die Synthesen erfolgten nach unterschiedlichen Strategien wie der Klick-Chemie und der nukleophilen Substitution kommerziell erhältlicher Organophosphorverbindungen mit aminobasierten Trialkoxysilanen und/oder Cyanurchlorid. Diese neuartigen, halogen- und aldehydfreien Flammschutzmittel wurden auf Stoffe aus Baumwolle (BW), Polyethylenterephthalat (PET), Polyamid (PA), sowie Mischgeweben daraus mit der industriell etablierten Pad-Dry-Cure-Technik und mittels Sol-Gel-Verfahren aufgetragen. Die flammhemmenden Eigenschaften wurden mit den Prüfverfahren nach EN ISO 15025 (Schutzkleidung – Schutz gegen Hitze und Flammprüfverfahren für begrenzte Flammenausbreitung= bewertet. Eine gute Schwerentflammbarkeit der hybriden organisch-anorganischen Materialien wurde bei einer geringen Menge von 3-5 Gew.% auf Baumwollgeweben erreicht. Darüber hinaus konnten die Wasserlöslichkeit und die Waschbeständigkeit durch die an das Phosphoratom gebundenen funktionellen Gruppen und durch die Optimierung der Härtungstemperatur kontrolliert werden. Insgesamt zeigte das Forschungsprojekt, dass N-P-Silane sehr gute permanente Flammschutzmittel für Textilien sind.
Flame-retardant finishing of cotton fabrics using DOPO functionalized alkoxy- and amido alkoxysilane
(2023)
In the present study, DOPO-based alkoxysilane (DOPO-ETES) and amido alkoxysilane (DOPO-AmdPTES) were synthesized by one-step and without by-products as halogen-free flame retardants. The flame retardants were applied on cotton fabric utilizing sol–gel method and pad-dry-cure finishing process. The flame retardancy, the thermal stability and the combustion ehaviour of treated cotton were evaluated by surface and bottom edge ignition flame test (according to EN ISO 15025), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and micro-scale combustion calorimeter (MCC). Unlike CO/DOPO-ETES sample, cotton treated with DOPO-AmdPTES nanosols exhibits self-extinguishing ehaviour with high char residue, an improvement of the LOI value and a significant reduction of the PHRR, HRC and THR compared to pristine cotton. Cotton finished with DOPO-AmdPTES reveals a semi-durability after ten laundering cycles keeping the flame-retardant properties unchanged. According to the results obtained from TGA-FTIR, Py-GC/MS and XPS, the major activity of flame retardant occurs in the condensed phase via catalytic induced char formation as physical barrier along with the activity in the gas phase derived mainly from the dilution effect. The early degradation of CO/DOPO-AmdPTES compared to CO/DOPO-ETES, triggered by the cleavage of the weak bond between P and C=O, as the DFT study indicated, provides the beneficial effect of this flame retardant on the fire resistance of cellulose.
Seit 10 Jahren lehrt der Künstler Henning Eichinger an der Hochschule Reutlingen. Was als künstlerische Unterstützung für Textil- und Modedesign-Studenten begann, hat sich mittlerweile zu einer ganz eigenständigen Position entwickelt. Aus dem Designstudium sind einige national und international erfolgreiche junge Künstler und Designer hervorgegangen. Sieben von ihnen werden zusammen mit Henning Eichinger in der Ausstellung präsentiert.
Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the value of the web representation of certain fashion hot spots and how these results can be shown on fashion maps in an illustrated way.
Design/methodology/approach: A new ranking was created, which was evaluated with a self-instructed index, to gain solid results. Numbers were collected from Google, Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and web.alert.io. Additionally, fashion maps were created for an illustrative visualization of the results.
Findings: Compared with the ranking of a trend forecasting agency, called Global Language Monitor, which concepted a ranking of non-virtual fashion cities, the web representation and therefore the ranking of the research project, differs mainly in the situation of the cities among the first 10, viz. the rank on which a city occurs, but fewer in the actual cities mentioned.
Research limitations: The research was limited to subjective analysis of data, leading to partly subjective results, as well as the selected number of social media platforms, that had been used.
Originality/value: This is the first study to explore the web representation value of fashion metropolises in comparison to their non-virtual ranking. The results are partly based on results that already existed, concerning transformations of fashion cities or in general which cities own the status of a fashion city.
Die Ausrüstung von Textilien mit Sol-Gel-Beschichtungen wird seit einigen Jahren intensiv verfolgt. Eine Vielzahl von bekannten, aber auch neuen Ausrüstungseffekten können über diesen Ansatz realisiert werden. Besonders interessant ist die Sol-Gel-Technik wegen der Möglichkeiten, multifunktionelle Ausrüstungen zu synthetisieren. Problematisch ist eine in vielen Fällen geringe Beständigkeit solcher Ausrüstungen, insbesondere gegenüber Waschprozessen. Ziel des Projektes war es davon ausgehend, Vorbehandlungsstrategien für textile Fasermaterialien, basierend auf synthetischen Polymeren oder aus Naturfasern, zu entwickeln, die die Haltbarkeit von Sol-Gel-basierten Ausrüstungen verbessern. Im Rahmen der Arbeiten wurden, angepasst an die jeweiligen Faserpolymere - Polyethylenterephthalat, Polyamid, Polypropylen und Baumwolle - funktionelle Gruppen über geeignete Anker auf den Polymeren etabliert, die in der Lage sind, kovalente Bindungen zu Sol-Gel-basierten Beschichtungssystemen auszubilden. Als Anker wurden primär Trialkoxysilane verwendet, die zusätzlich z.B. Epoxy-, Isocyanato-, Azido- oder Amino-funktionelle Reste besitzen. Mit diesen Resten können die Anker kovalent an die Polymere angebunden werden. Die meisten Sol-Gel-basierten Systeme enthalten zumindest zu einem gewissen Anteil SiOx und/oder MexOy-Cluster. Die zur Funktionalisierung der Oberflächen eingesetzten Alkoxysilane können generell an solche Systeme/Cluster per Kondensation gebunden werden und dienen daher für die effektive Anbindung verschiedenster funktioneller Sol-Gel-Schichten. Entsprechend vorfunktionalisierte Substrate wurden in der Folge mit exemplarisch ausgewählten Sol-Gel-Ausrüstungen beschichtet. Dabei wurden für den Großteil der Untersuchungen hydrophobierende Sole appliziert. Vorteilhaft ist, dass sich der mit hydrophobierenden Solen erzielte Ausrüstungseffekt genau wie dessen Beständigkeit mit vergleichsweise überschaubarem Aufwand über die Untersuchung der Benetzbarkeit (DuPont-Noten, Kontaktwinkel, Tropfeneinsinkzeiten) charakterisieren lässt. Die Wirksamkeit der Vorbehandlungen wurde dann vor allem anhand von Untersuchungen zur Waschbeständigkeit der Ausrüstungen überprüft. Im Rahmen der Arbeiten konnte gezeigt werden, dass sich über die Etablierung geeigneter Anker die Beständigkeit von Sol-Gel-Ausrüstungen bzw. der daraus hervorgehenden Effekte verbessern lässt. Es zeigt sich gleichzeitig, dass die erzielten Verbesserungen sehr stark vom jeweiligen Sol abhängen. D.h., dass sich erzielte Verbesserungen nicht zwangsläufig auf andere Sol übertragen lassen. Analytische Charakterisierungen weisen darauf hin, dass in vielen Fällen die Beständigkeit der Beschichtungsnetzwerke selbst einen weit größeren Einfluss besitzt als die Anbindung an das Substrat. So zeigt sich bei verschiedenen Untersuchungen, dass die Auflage der Sol-Gel-Beschichtung vor allem nach einer ersten Wäsche, aber auch darüber hinaus, signifikant sinkt, oftmals aber ohne dass der durch Ausrüstung erzielte Effekt verloren geht. Dies deutet auf ein (Auf-)Lösen der Beschichtungsmatrizes hin, wovor die Anker nicht schützen können, da deren Wirkung auf die Grenzfläche zum Substrat beschränkt ist. Neben den hydrophobierenden Ausrüstungen wurden exemplarisch auch antibakterielle Ausrüstungen nach den entsprechenden Vorbehandlungen appliziert. Auch hier konnten Verbesserungen in der Beständigkeit des Effektes erzielt werden. Abschließend wurde untersucht inwieweit sich die Vorbehandlungen im Vergleich zur einfachen Ausrüstung negativ auf die textilen Produkte auswirken. Hierzu wurden relevante textile Parameter wie z.B. Höchstzugkräfte, Weißgrade, Steifigkeit oder Luftdurchlässigkeiten bestimmt. Diese Parameter wurden in der überwiegenden Zahl der Vorbehandlungen nicht oder nur geringfügig beeinflusst.
In the luxury Fashion industry, consumers could be categorized into two groups: fashion leader and Fashion follower. Both groups of consumers purchase luxury fashion products aim at satisfying both their functional needs and social needs (i.e., social influence). Thus the demands of both consumer groups are related. In this paper, we construct a model to examine the effects of pricing and online retail service in luxury fashion firms with social influence. To maximize profit, we identify the optimal prices and online retail service when the luxury fashion firms provide the non-differentiated and differentiated online retail services, respectively. More insights are discussed.
It is widely recognized that Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) plays a critical role in creating a more sustainable world by fostering the development of the knowledge, skills, understanding, values, and actions necessary for such change (UNESCO, 2020). In this context, ESD represents a holistic approach that focuses on lifelong learning to create informed people who can make decisions today and in the future. Related to the textile and fashion industry, ESD is an appropriate approach to continuously implement sustainability aspects in education and training. To achieve this goal, the European project "Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) has developed a digital teaching module in a partnership between a University of Education and universities with textile departments. The main objective of the project is to elaborate an ESD module for university lecturers in order to introduce a sustainable fashion curriculum in textile universities in Europe and implement it in educational systems. The project therefore aims to train educators along the textile supply chain, to inform the young generation about the latest aspects of sustainability and raise awareness by implementing ESD in textile education. This paper presents the learning outcomes of the modules on sustainable fashion design and related production technologies developed by the technical university partners, as part of the total of 42 courses covering didactic-methodological approaches and the sustainable orientation of the fashion market, offered at the consortium level. The project content is made available as Open Educational Resources through Glocal Campus, an open-access e-learning platform that enables virtual collaboration between universities.
The strong demand for a transformation of the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires a continuous implementation of the guiding principle of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) in education and industry [1, 2]. In a first step of the European research project "Sustainable fashion curriculum at textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) a continuing education module shall be created to implement ESD as a guiding principle in university teaching. The research-based teaching and learning materials are delivered through an e-learning portal.
The strong demand to transform the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires continuous implementation of the Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) mission statement in education and industry. To achieve this goal, the European research project "Fashion DIET - Sustainable Fashion Curriculum at Textile Universities in Europe. Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators", co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union (2020-1-DE01-KA203-005657), aims to create an ESD module for university lecturers and research-based teaching and learning materials delivered through an e-learning portal. First, an online questionnaire was rolled out to assess university faculty attitudes toward and needs for ESD content and methods. The feedback questionnaire enabled the selection of the most relevant data for the elaboration of an action and research-oriented professional development module for ESD in textile education, which will be accessible through an information & e-learning portal. The e-learning portal can be used as a web-based tool to apply and evaluate the project outcomes, e.g. the further education module and the teaching and learning materials for educators, such as manuals, broadcasts and the provision of interactive and physical materials. It thus ensures that the teaching materials can be used sustainably in the classroom. It also provides country-specific data for the fashion and textile industry and its market, taking into account the different perspectives of universities and schools. In any case, the portal represents (1) the web-based platform to support the dissemination of ESD as a guiding principle and (2) a central contact point for the target group to obtain relevant information on ESD. Fashion DIET explores the use of e-learning to improve teaching and learning on ESD, by training educators and empowering them as multipliers for a sustainable textile and fashion industry. At a higher level, the European project strengthens the quality and relevance of learning provision in education towards the latest developments in textile research and innovation in terms of a more sustainable fashion.
This research is about Omnichannel Retailing and addresses the question how the omnichanneling of retailers in the fashion market can be measured. Our sources will include books, interviews, newspapers and scientific databases.
Omnichanneling is a current topic in the fashion market, retailers all over the world face the question on how to adapt to the challenges Omnichannel Retailing sets. We are going to define what Omnichanneling is by explaining the differences between Multiple-, Multi-, Cross- and Omnichannel Retailing. After we defined omnichanneling itself, we took a set of 26 retailers to evaluate regarding their Omnichannel capabilities. Then we create an index with criteria that can measure the Omnichannel capability of each retailer.
The Omnichannel Score is based on 31 criteria, which analyze the retailers in offline, online, mobile and social aspects enables to see differences between retailers. Our findings were that retailers in the US fashion market are more advanced in Omnichannel Retailing than retailers in the German fashion market. Our top three Omnichannel retailers were Sears with an Omnichannel Score of 91, followed by KOHL’S and Marks&Spencer, both with a Omnichannel Score of 88. The best Omnichannel Retailer from Germany was Adidas with the fourth place and an Omnichannel Score of 81.
Patterns are virtually simulated in 3D CAD programs before production to check the fit. However, achieving lifelike representations of human avatars, especially regarding soft tissue dynamics, remains challenging. This is mainly since conventional avatars in garment CAD programs are simulated with a continuous hard surface and not corresponding to the human physical and mechanical body properties of soft tissue. In the real world, the human body’s natural shape is affected by the contact pressure of tight-fitting textiles. To verify the fit of a simulated garment, the interactions between the individual body shape and the garment must be considered. This paper introduces an innovative approach to digitising the softness of human tissue using 4D scanning technology. The primary objective of this research is to explore the interactions between tissue softness and different compression levels of apparel, exerting pressure on the tissue to capture the changes in the natural shape. Therefore, to generate data and model an avatar with soft body physics, it is essential to capture the deform ability and elasticity of the soft tissue and map it into the modification options for a simulation. To aim this, various methods from different fields were researched and compared to evaluate 4D scanning as the most suitable method for capturing tissue deformability in vivo. In particular, it should be considered that the human body has different deformation capabilities depending on age, the amount of muscle and body fat. In addition, different tissue zones have different mechanical properties, so it is essential to identify and classify them to back up these properties for the simulation. It has been shown that by digitising the obtained data of the different defined applied pressure levels, a prediction of the deformation of the tissue of the exact person becomes possible. As technology advances and data sets grow, this approach has the potential to reshape how we verify fit digitally with soft avatars and leverage their realistic soft tissue properties for various practical purposes.
The process for the production of customized bras is really challenging. Although the need is very clear, the lingerie industry is currently facing a lack of data, knowledge and expertise for the realization of an automated process chain. Different studies and surveys have shown, that the majority of women wear the incorrect bra size. In addition to aesthetic problems, health risks such as headaches, back problems or digestive problems of the wearers can result from this. An important prerequisite for improvements is the basic knowledge about the female breast, both in terms of body measurements and different breast shapes. The current size systematic for bras only defines a bra size by the relation between bust girth and underbust girth and standardized cup forms do not justice to the high variability of the human body. As the bra type shapes the female breast, basic knowledge about the relation of measurements and shapes from the clothed and the unclothed breast is missing.
In the present project, studies are conducted to explore the female breast and to derive new breast-specific body measurements, different breast shapes and deformation knowledge using existing bras.
Furthermore, an innovative process is being developed that leads from 3D scanning to individual and interactive pattern construction, which allows an automatic pattern creation based on individual body measurements and the influence of different material parameters.
In the course of the presentation, the current project status will be shown and the future developments and project steps will be introduced.
For a holistic assessment of the interaction between the human body and tight fitted clothing, it is necessary to consider the mechanical properties of the body. Default avatars in CAD software are usually solid and do not take this interaction into account. For this purpose, a solid avatar is converted to a deformable one by using the soft body physics implementation in the simulation program Blender. The fit of a 3D garment on both avatars are compared, which allows a first evaluation of the differences between these approaches.
When wearing compressive garments, the tissue of the human body is altered in relation to its natural shape by the properties of the applied material and by the pattern construction used.
To check the fit of garments, both construction and selected materials can be virtually simulated in 3D on avatars in corresponding CAD programs before fabrication.
The software Blender allows the modelling of an avatar and to generate in respective to the different tissue zones with their specific properties to adjust them with soft body physics according to the testing of real soft tissue but the models in Blender are mainly using linear springs.
Das Lieferkettensorgfaltspflichtengesetz (LkSG) wurde verabschiedet, um die nachhaltige Bewirtschaftung internationaler Lieferketten und globaler Wertschöpfungsnetzwerke zu regeln. Hieraus stellen sich die Fragen, wie sich das LkSG auf die nachhaltige Bewirtschaftung von Lieferketten auswirken wird und mit welchen Handlungsansätzen die betroffenen Unternehmen dem LkSG entsprechen können. I.R.e. empirisch-qualitativen Forschungsarbeit liefert der Beitrag erste Antworten auf diese Fragen und gibt Handlungsempfehlungen für die Unternehmenspraxis.
Purpose: This paper is to show what sustainable fashion is and how it has developed in recent years. Also the paper discusses which factors are important in order to be sustainable. Above all, it's about customers who show a lot interest in sustainable fashion. Child labor, working conditions, poor quality and poisonous substances are stricty rejected by these consumers. Amazingly, fashion companies that repeatedly hit the headlines with bad properties are very successful. It's about the sustainable oxymoron, the act and want of the consumer.
Findings: It is difficult to be sustainable. The reasons for that are the consumption, not much transparency in textile chains, fast fashion and much more. It's almost impossible for a product to achieve the 100 percent sustainability. On one hand the consumers want to have sustainable products, on the other hand they purchase for newness and cheap clothes. It has become clear that they buy in a conflict.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between fashion businesses and film from a fashion business perspective. It focuses on the idea that digitalization brought much more film use for the fashion industry and that this development has just begun and not ended. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as fashion companies nowadays are content producers with films, too. The resulting closer connection with viewers via social media exposes fashion companies, gives on the other hand new influence potential to the fashion system. An in-depth future research about the fashion and film system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
Today, digitalization is firmly anchored in society and business. It is also recognized to have significant impact on the retailing sector. The in-store display of moving images has so far, however, gained little attention by researchers. The aim of this research is to provide a first estimation on the current state of moving images distribution in stationary retail stores. A store check was the basis for analysis and evaluation. In sum, 152 stores were analyzed in Stuttgart, Germany. Out of 152 observed stores, 62 stores showed 177 moving images. Detailed analyses about content, mood, color and the actors of motion pictures showed that all aspects are very well harmonized with the target group of the store. The chapter provides a basic estimation of the in-store diffusion of moving images. Thereby, avenues for further research are opened up.
This chapter provides insights in the future of fashion film with respect to augmented reality and virtual reality technologies. The question: How does augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film? is therefore considered. It is important to analyze the influence of those technologies on fashion films to assess the potential for fashion retailers and in best case gain first-mover advantages. To answer the stated research question, a literature research was conducted to gain insights about the topic and its influence towards fashion filming. Explanation of augmented reality and virtual reality is provided as well as implications in the retail sector regarding fashion films. Moreover, company examples already using this approach have been compiled. Furthermore, an empirical research part was conducted including a survey method based on an online survey design. The questionnaire is based on what has been revealed in literature to gain in depth insides and approval. The data gained indicated that augmented reality and virtual reality influence the future of fashion film in various ways. The findings highlight how important those technologies can be in order to enhance customer experience and engagement. Regarding the research question, the conclusion can be drawn that it is highly important for fashion managers to take future developments like augmented reality and virtual reality into account to stay competitive and satisfy the requirements of modern consumers.
This chapter discusses German television as a platform for fashion content and, in that context, streaming services as possible alternatives. Three German television channels were surveilled over the period of one month, as well as the two most popular streaming services in Germany and the online media library of one German television channel over six months, regarding length, fashion connection, transmission time and success. Additionally, for three channels fashion advertisement was analyzed. Broadcasting the most contributions with fashion connection in one month, VOX was the channel being the most fashionable. Aiming to entertain, informative contributions about fashion in television build a minority. Streaming services offer more flexibility, which the user is asking for. All three television stations show fashion brand spots during prime-time. Especially ProSieben and sixx are in close cooperation with several fashion brands. Therefore, fashion advertising seems to be preferably inserted in fashion related series.
Based on new ways of watching series via streaming platforms and a change of buying behavior, advertising needs to focus on new strategies. Branded entertainment gives brands the opportunity to deeper integrate their product placements into television show plots. Through a managerial perspective this increases the advertising effectiveness. The serial ‘Sex and the City’ exemplifies successful branded entertainment and shows how series influence fashion nowadays. The placements are outstanding when it comes to storytelling around the brand or product, setting trends and creating a character connection plus a desire through identification. This chapter shows success factors and chances of placements for the fashion industry.
Hip-hop culture defines itself through four central pillars: DJing, MCing, breakdancing and graffiti, but a fifth one, fashion, may be in the coming. Hip-hop has become the most popular music genre, and the influence it has on society is undebatable. But as hip-hop artists increasingly underpin their music with visual components, like music videos, the question arises if that has an influence on the fashion industry. This chapter clarifies which factors may determine a fashion business impact and discusses differences between mainstream hip-hop artists and the ones that are active in the fashion industry as well. The focus lays on the way and amount fashion is presented in the music videos. 24 music videos were analyzed, thereof 15 popular records from the past three years and nine of artists that are already considered as fashion influential. Additionally, a fashion influence index was created to compare the degree of fashion between the music videos. Numbers of styles, recognized brands, fashion related song verses, fashion related description box mentions and articles about the fashion in the music video were noted. Findings reveal that the number of outfits shown in the video did not have a direct link to the amount of traffic it produces in fashion media. The artists that are considered influential in the fashion industry, name brands in their song lyrics more often and show brand logos more frequent in their music videos than others. Though over the observed years, for the mainstream hip-hop artists, a rise in fashion awareness can be seen through a higher number of styles, recognizable brands and fashion related verses in the lyrics.
An event film is a successful marketing and communication instrument, which can be used from companies along social media. By reaching the target group and potential customers, companies could benefit from increasing brand awareness. It is striking that there is a lack of information about how event films are used in regard to showing fashion. To establish the subject further, the purpose of this paper is to enrich the existing findings and analyze the influence event films have. In an empirical study, the performance of two events and the two related fast fashion retailers H&M and Zara on Instagram and YouTube regarding event and fashion connected films is analyzed. Identified stylistic elements of event fashion are searched and found in their online shops. Since emotions are especially well transferred through event films, there is an indication that they contribute to the shaping of fashion trends.
A case study with four German fashion retail brands was conducted in order to measure the performance of their Omnichannel services. In detail, their Click & Collect service was analyzed. Click & Collect is one of the first introduced Omnichannel services in fashion retailing. Omnichannel services integrate different sales and communication channels providing a seamless customer journey experience. Offline, online, and mobile app customer experiences should provide a seamless customer experience. Omnichannel performance of the four retailers Decathlon, Hunkemöller, Massimo Dutti and Galeria Kaufhof was measured via mystery shopping. A seamless customer journey experience is not yet a standard in German fashion retailing. The four companies differ in many process details. The biggest market potential and the recommendation for further research emerges in deficits of the offline store Omnichannel customer experience. Here, all four case companies have room to improve. Best overall results regarding the integration of offline, online and mobile shops were found with Hunkemöller, followed by Decathlon, Massimo Dutti, and Galeria Kaufhof.
The purpose of this paper is to determine the relevance of social media for luxury brand management. It employs both a multi-methodological approach: After analyzing the online performance of the three luxury brands Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the empirical research includes a survey as well as an eye tracking test executed with Tobii Studio. The findings reveal that online and social media have given luxury fashion businesses the opportunity to establish a sustainable interaction with their customers and distinguish themselves from the competition. Still, the online business holds many challenges for luxury companies to overcome. This paper gives instructions as to how social media can be effectively incorporated into a luxury company.
Instagram fashion videos
(2020)
Instagram is one of the most used social media platforms to share photos and videos. Due to this, it can be seen as a helpful opportunity for companies to use the platform as a marketing tool in order to spread information to a wide range of potential customers. Ever since its launch, Instagram is strongly connected to fashion, which makes the platform in particular interesting for fashion brands. According to the screened literature, most brands use Instagram for marketing purposes. It is furthermore a matter of fact, that the utilization of videos plays a decisive role. Following up on this, the question about how brands use videos on Instagram for marketing purposes comes up. Due to this, this chapter aims to investigate the extent to which brands make use of videos on Instagram, what the goals of the videos are and what the most effective videos in terms of user engagement are. More specifically, this chapter includes an empirical study which examines the Instagram profiles of nine selected brands of the categories lifestyle, luxury and fashion and sportswear on the underlying research question. A subsequent evaluation and discussion of the results depicts differences and similarities within the categories and between the categories. All in all, the results of the study show that fashion brands use the possibility of films as a marketing tool on Instagram. The content and types of films thereby heavily depend on the brand category.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles. An explorative approach was chosen for the literature section. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is possible in numerous different ways. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailers should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post-processing of these videos.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles in online shops in the German, American and British markets. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is underutilized. With the amount of data that was manageable within the scope of this chapter, no valid generalizations can be made. All described results must be understood as an indication. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider before exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailer should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post processing of these videos.
This chapter looks at the usage of image films produced by brands and their dealing with themselves. It focuses on analyzing important film parameters, the content and the way it can influence brand image. A list of 70 fashion brands from different categories was gathered through a survey and confirmed by comparing the results with relevant literature. All 70 brands were looked at to find relevant self-referencing films. The films had to be produced by the brand themselves. Videos for advertisement or promoting collections are not regarded either. In total 22 films from 17 brands were analyzed. Results show that most brands seem to have recognized videos as a powerful marketing tool in the social media age. Many brands seem to struggle with the compliance of certain parameters such as length and the use of the brand logo. In general, the content of the videos is focused around the four topics recruitment, value, history and behind the brand. As for the intent, the videos can be classified into the three categories learning, emotion and doing something. This paper not only analyzes this special film category, but also gives recommendations to improve the videos.
The connection of fashion and film seems symbiotic at first sight and they influence each other. There exist differences, including a different understanding of clothing by costume designers and fashion businesses. This article focuses on two successful movies „The Hunger Games“ and „The Great Gatsby“ in order to explore the role of film in fashion and vice versa. The findings suggest, that there are various collections in the fashion world, based on both movies. Therefore, movies indeed have an influence on the development of seasonal fashion. However, this connection is not natural, but rather artificially created by both industries. Through nowadays organized co-operation, the lines between costume designers and fashion designers get blurred. Furthermore, today fashion doesn’t trickle down to an audience naturally, but promoted using the film and its broad reach.
Fashion show films
(2020)
Due to technological developments, fashion show films provide fashion brands the opportunity to communicate their brand concepts, to attract attention and to gain more brand awareness by publishing them in the Internet. The purpose of this research paper is to investigate how fashion brands communicate their brand concept and personality through fashion show films. For this purpose, ten fashion show films of brands from the categories luxury, premium, high-street and active wear are investigated. The results indicate that the investigated brands use different ways to attract attention and to communicate their brand concept and personality. The design of the setting, the presentation of the collection as well as the visualization of the brand concept through the brand name, logo, colors or symbols and camera work play an important role to create an effective and exciting fashion show film in order to communicate the brand concept and to promote their brand image. Mostly luxury and premium brands use fashion show films for branding. For high-street and active wear brands the analysis indicates less importance of fashion show films. The limitations of this research are related to the fact that the restricted number of ten fashion show films is analyzed. This gives an overview but cannot provide a comprehensive breakdown of this topic.
YouTube fashion videos
(2020)
YouTube is the most widely adopted and successful video sharing platform. It works as a marketing instrument and money-making tool for companies while reaching the target group. After considering the significant literature based on YouTube, it is striking that there is lack of information about YouTube’s benefits as a video marketing instrument for fashion brands. To establish this subject further, the purpose of this study is to enrich the existing findings on social video marketing on YouTube in the apparel industry. The findings indicate the importance of YouTube as a social network for fashion marketers. The second part conducts an empirical study, which makes the YouTube channel performance of nine fashion brands the subject of discussion. Thereby, three brands per lifestyle, sports and luxury sector are analyzed through comparative aspects. Accordingly, the differences and similarities within and between the sectors are analyzed and evaluated.
This publication is a Technical report by the Joint Research Centre (JRC), the European Commission’s science and knowledge service. It aims to provide evidence-based scientific support to the European policymaking process.
This report provides an bird’s-eye view on the concept and implications of digital identities. After an introduction situating the concept of identity, the report clarifies its contemporary meaning and proposes a definition of reference. Subsequently, the authors examine the consequences of the translation of the concept of identity into the digital, internet connected world. They then analyse the particularities and consequences of this translation, which allows them to situate and define the concept of digital identities.
Finally, they conclude with the challenges that digital identity poses to the digital citizen in the attempt to manage and protect its attributes with the advent of Internet of Things and blockchain technology.
Entwicklung eines nicht vergilbenden, faserbasierten BH's mittels innovativer FIM-Technologie
(2017)
The following paper is dealing with the issue on which actual consumer lifestyle segmentation methods there are for particular European countries and accordingly for Europe as a whole. This is important for corporations to be able to place their products accurately by a consumer orientated marketing concerning the constant change of values and minds. Researching current literature, internet sources and documents, the state of the science is presented by a detailed description of the most popular lifestyle segmentation methods used in European countries. In addition to that, these instruments are discussed individually and then compared to each other. All instruments, the Sinus-Milieus, Euro-Socio-Styles, Roper-Consumer-Styles, RISC and Mosaic, are serving the same purpose even so they differ pretty much from each other. Each market research company has its own method to generate their model just as different segments and definitions for them. Furthermore every segmentation method is illustrated in a different way. This paper demonstrates all these instruments in detail and shows its advantages and disadvantages. Summing up literature research concerning the main research question, there are several models segmenting consumers in different lifestyle groups for e.g. in Germany, France or Great Britain, but still less models referring to the entire European market.
Anlass für die Ausstellung war das 150 jährige Bestehen der Hochschule Reutlingen. Ursprünglich als Webschule gegründet, später Technikum für Textilindustrie und staatliche Ingenieurschule, entwickelte sich daraus bis heute die Fachhochschule mit der Fakultät für Textil und Design. Den Schwerpunkt des historischen Teils der Ausstellung bildet die Gewebesammlung, die in der Webschule als Vorbild für die Studenten wie auch für die württembergische Textilindustrie entstand. Demgegenüber stehen aktuelle Funktionstextilien aus High-Tech-Fasern, die über die traditionelle Nutzung als Material für Bekleidung hinaus vielseitig eingesetzt werden: im Automobil- und Flugzeugbau, in der Medizintechnik, im Arbeitsschutz, an Bauwerken.
Qualitätssicherung aus Sicht einer unternehmensnahen Hochschule für Angewandte Wissenschaften
(2015)
Mit der Umstellung auf Bachelor- und Masterstudiengänge zur Harmonisierung des europäischen Hochschulsystems wurden die Hochschulen mit der Akkreditierung ihrer Studiengänge konfrontiert. Neben der formalen Erfüllung der Kriterien kristallisieren sich mittlerweile verschiedenste Qualitätssysteme heraus, die den Prozess der Qualitätsverbesserung unterstützen sollen. Leider geht damit gerade ein verwirrender Gebrauch verschiedener in der QM-Praxis eingeführter Begriffe einher. Bei dem Thema Qualität, Qualitätssicherung oder -management sind alle verantwortlich Handelnden gefragt. Sobald ihnen klar ist, dass ein Qualitätsmanagementsystem nicht automatisch immer nur überbordende Dokumentation bedeutet, sondern ein Managementwerkzeug ist, das sich in der Praxis bei richtiger Ausgestaltung zur Steuerung von Unternehmen und zur Erreichung der Ziele bewährt hat, wird die Scheu vor einer Einführung verfliegen.
In recent years, the demand for accurate and efficient 3D body scanning technologies has increased, driven by the growing interest in personalised textile development and health care. This position paper presents the implementation of a novel 3D body scanner that integrates multiple RGB cameras and image stitching techniques to generate detailed point clouds and 3D mesh models. Our system significantly enhances the scanning process, achieving higher resolution and fidelity while reducing the cost, time and effort required for data acquisition and processing. Furthermore, we evaluate the potential use cases and applications of our 3D body scanner, focusing on the textile technology and health sectors. In textile development, the 3D scanner contributes to bespoke clothing production, allowing designers to construct made-to-measure garments, thus minimising waste and enhancing customer satisfaction through fitting clothing. In mental health care, the 3D body scanner can be employed as a tool for body image analysis, providing valuable insights into the psychological and emotional aspects of self-perception. By exploring the synergy between the 3D body scanner and these fields, we aim to foster interdisciplinary collaborations that drive advancements in personalisation, sustainability, and well-being.
After definition and the history of podcasts, in this book the role of podcasts in the communication strategy is mapped out. Podcast production, podcast types, podcast structures, and podcast advertising are explained. Podcast audiences and podcast in the fashion industry are introduced.
In a thorough explorative analysis, a general exploration of the podcast offering of the fashion sector was conducted. Then a selected podcast analysis with evaluation and conclusion, including a discussion of the future use of podcasts closes this book.
Über mehrere Monate porträtierten sich Masterstudierende von drei Kontinenten gegenseitig über Skype. Mittels einer besonderen Zeichentechnik, der Blindzeichnung, sind zahlreiche Porträts entstanden, deren Wirkung im öffentlichen Raum und in sozialen Netzwerken untersucht wurden. Diese Porträts sind die Basis für künstlerische Arbeiten in allen Bereichen und Medien der Bildenden Kunst. Das Forschungsprojekt SkypeLab schafft so eine Verbindung der traditionellen künstlerischen Techniken mit aktuellen digitalen Technologien.
Purpose: Emotions play a central role in approach-avoidance customer conflicts in retailing. The purpose of this paper is to assess the influence of emotions in the fashion retail environment, in particular to investigate how emotions can be best defined and clustered as well as how emotions affect the costumer behavior.
Findings: The conceptual paper reveals a framework explaining diverse theories of emotional models existing in literature. Moreover, the stimulus-organism-response model is applied to costumer behaviour in the fashion retail to explain the shopping experience under the influence of cognitive and affective emotional processes. Finally, it is concluded that point of sales have to be turned to point of emotions in order retailers are able to develop sustainable relationships with their customers.
Like many others, fashion companies have to deal with a global and very competitive environment. Thus companies rely on accurate sales forecasts - as key success factor of an efficient supply chain management. However, forecasters have to take into account some specificities of the fashion industry. To respond to these constraints, a variety of different forecasting methods exists, including new, computer-based predictive analytics. After the evaluation of different methods, their application to the fashion industry is investigated through semi structured expert interviews. Despite several benefits predictive analytics is not yet frequently used in practice. This research does not only reflect an industry profile, but also gives important insights about the future potential and obstacles of predictive analytics.
Energy consumption by air-conditioning is expansive and leads to the emission of millions of tons of CO2 every year. A promising approach to circumvent this problem is the reflection of solar radiation: Rooms that would not heat up by irradiation will not need to be cooled down. Especially, transparent conductive metal oxides exhibit high infrared (IR) reflectivity and are commonly applied as low-emissivity coatings (low-e coatings). Indium tin oxide (ITO) coatings are the state-of-the-art application, though indium is a rare and expensive resource. This work demonstrates that aluminum-doped zinc oxide (AZO) can be a suitable alternative to ITO for IR-reflection applications. AZO synthesized here exhibits better emissivity to be used as roofing membrane coatings for buildings in comparison to commercially available ITO coatings. AZO particles forming the reflective coating are generated via solvothermal synthesis routes and obtain high conductivity and IR reflectivity without the need of any further post-thermal treatment. Different synthesis parameters were studied, and their effects on both conductive and optical properties of the AZO nanoparticles were evaluated. To this end, a series of characterization methods, especially 27Al-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (27Al-NMR) analysis, have been conducted for a deeper insight into the particles’ structure to understand the differences in conductivity and optical properties. The optimized AZO nanoparticles were coated on flexible transparent textile-based roofing membranes and tested as low-e coatings. The membranes demonstrated higher thermal reflectance compared with commercial ITO materials with an emissivity value lowered by 16%.
Die Anforderungen an Textilien unterscheiden sich je nach Anwendungsbereich stark, wobei es häufig nicht bei nur einer benötigten Funktionalität bleibt. Im Bereich der Funktions- oder Schutzkleidung bzw. PSA ist es z.B. nötig, die Träger der Kleidung vor UV-Strahlung zu schützen. Gleichzeitig bieten hier selbstreinigende Effekte gewisse Vorteile. Zudem kann eine antimikrobielle Wirkung im Bereich der Funktionskleidung die Bildung unangenehmer Gerüche vermindern, sowie im Bereich der PSA – besonders im Gesundheitswesen – zur Unterbrechung von Infektionsketten beitragen. Eine Möglichkeit, diese 3 gewünschten Funktionen in nur einem Ausrüstungsschritt zu erzielen, ist die Immobilisierung von Titandioxid (TiO2). Dieses wird aber aufgrund einer REACH-Listung kritisch für die Anwendung im textilen Sektor gesehen. Nachteilig ist zudem, dass es seine Wirkung nur unter UV-Einstrahlung entfaltet und damit nicht für den Innenbereich geeignet ist. Alternativ können Photokatalysatoren wie dotierte Zinkoxide (ZnO) verwendet werden, die auch durch Einstrahlung im Bereich des sichtbaren Lichts eine katalytische Aktivität aufweisen, die zur Abtötung von Mikroorganismen und zum Abbau organischer Verschmutzungen führen kann.
The requirements for textiles differ greatly depending on the area of application, whereby it often does not remain with only one required functionality. For example, in the field of functional clothing or protective clothing/PPE, it is necessary to protect the textile’s wearers from UV radiation. At the same time, self-cleaning effects offer certain advantages in that field. In addition, an antimicrobial effect in functional clothing can reduce the formation of unpleasant odors, and in PPE – especially in the healthcare sector – can contribute to the interruption of the chain of infection. One way to achieve these 3 desired functions in just one finishing step is to immobilize titanium dioxide (TiO2). However, TiO2 is viewed critically for application in the textile sector due to a REACH listing. Another disadvantage is that it only takes effect under UV radiation and is therefore not suitable for indoor use. Alternatively, photocatalysts such as doped zinc oxides (ZnO) can be used, which also exhibit catalytic activity through activation by visible light, which can lead to the killing of microorganisms and the degradation of organic soiling.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
Der pH-Wert der menschlichen Haut liegt nicht im neutralen Bereich, sondern ist mit Werten von 3,5-6 – je nach Körperstelle – leicht Sauer. Das bietet der Kommensalen Hautflora einen geeigneten Lebensraum, wirkt jedoch abtötend auf einige pathogene Mikroorganismen und inaktivierend auf einige Viren. Dieser Säureschutzmantel der Haut stellt somit eine erste äußere Schutzschicht vor dem Befall von Krankheitserregern dar. Ein entsprechender Oberflächen-pH-Wert auf Textilien kann dazu beitragen, die Übertragung von Krankheitserregern durch die Kleidung von Mitarbeitern im Gesundheitswesen zu minimieren und gleichzeitig keinen negativen Einfluss auf die hauteigene Flora auszuüben. Zudem kann die Besiedlung von z.B. Bettwäsche durch pathogene Mikroorganismen vermindert werden. Einen positiven Einfluss kann dies zudem auf die bakterienassoziierte Geruchsbildung auf Funktionskleidung haben.
Ziel des Forschungsvorhabens war es, unter Verwendung von photokatalytisch aktiven Zinkoxid- und/oder Titandioxid-Partikeln Kombinationsausrüstungen für die Textilindustrie zu entwickeln, welche einen hohen UV-Schutz (UPF-Wert: 50+), eine hohe antimikrobielle Wirksamkeit und selbsteinigende Eigenschaften garantieren, um so neue hygienischere Textilien zu schaffen. Hierzu sollten wässrige Ausrüstungen entwickelt werden, die über konventionelle Veredlungstechniken – „pad-dry-cure“ – appliziert werden können. Die Aktivität der Partikel sollte unter Einstrahlung von Raumlicht gegeben sein. Daher sollten die Partikel so modifiziert werden, dass ihre Absorption im Wellenlängenbereich des sichtbaren Lichtes liegt.
Für die Erfüllung der Projektziele wurden verschiedene dotierte TiO2- und ZnO-Nanopartikel synthetisiert, die durch das Einbringen von Dotanden eine Verschiebung der Absorption elektromagnetischer Strahlung erfahren haben. Ein Aktivitätsscreening geeigneter Kandidaten zeigte, dass einige einen Abbau organischer Referenzmaterialien katalysierten und eine antibakterielle Aktivität vorwiesen. Eisendotiertes Zinkoxid (Fe-ZnO) vereinte die beiden gewünschten Eigenschaften in ausreichendem Maße und verfügte zudem über eine hohe Absorption von UV-Strahlung, sodass damit auch das dritte Projektziel - ein ausreichender UV-Schutz - erreicht werden konnte.
Die wiederholte Synthese von Fe-ZnO gelang im Labormaßstab. Die Partikel konnten durch das Sol-Gel-Verfahren mittels anorganischem Tetraethoxysilan, sowie über einen organischen Polyurethanbasierten Binder durch Foulardierverfahren an verschiedenen Textilien immobilisiert werden. Die Waschstabilität war gegeben und eine Photodegradation des Binders und der Textilien konnte zumindest für das TEOS-System ausgeschlossen werden. Das Aktivitätsscreening der ausgerüsteten Textilien zeigte, dass immobilisierte Nanopartikel zwar zum Erreichen der anvisierten
Projektziele genügen, jedoch konnte die Aktivität des als Referenz verwendeten TiO2 nicht übertroffen werden.
Insgesamt ergab sich ein Einblick in den Nutzen von Nanopartikeln als katalytisch aktive Substanz, die zur Ausrüstung von Textilien geeignet ist. Um eine genügende Aktivität im sichtbaren Wellenlängenbereich zu erzielen und damit einen Nutzen für eine Innenraumanwendung zu generieren, müssen jedoch deutlich besser die Grundlagen der Dotierung und ihre Auswirkung auf die ROS-Generierung verstanden werden.
Die Ziele des Forschungsvorhabens wurden zum Teil erreicht.
Säureschutzmantel - Ausrüstung zum Schutz gegen mikrobiellen Befall - (DTNW Mitteilung Nr. 129)
(2022)
Ziel des Forschungsvorhabens war es, den Effekt des Säureschutzmantels der menschlichen Haut auf der textilen Oberfläche unter der Verwendung von Säurekatalyten nachzuahmen, um so neuartige, antibakterielle Textilien zu entwickeln. Hierzu sollten für die Textilindustrie wässrige Ausrüstungen entwickelt werden, die über konventionelle Veredlungstechniken wie das Foulardieren appliziert werden können. Die Aktivität der Ausrüstung sollte im feuchten Millieu gegeben sein, um einen Effekt beim Tragen von z.B. Funktionskleidung oder Arbeitskleidung im medizinischen Bereich zu gewährleisten.
Für die Erfüllung der Projektziele wurden verschiedene kommerzielle Polyoxometallate verwendet. Zudem wurden Polyoxometallate synthetisiert und funktionalisiert. Diese führen im wässrigen Millieu eine saure Katalyse durch und kommen als industrielle Katalysatoren an Membranen gebunden zum Einsatz. Ein Aktivitätsscreening geeigneter Kandidaten zeigte, dass eine wässrige Applikation möglich ist und zu einer antibakteriellen Aktivität der ausgerüsteten Textilien führt.
Die Polyoxometallate konnten durch das Sol-Gel-Verfahren mittels Tetraethoxysilan durch Foulardierverfahren im Labormaßstab an verschiedenen Textilien immobilisiert werden. Eine Hochskalierung auf den Technikumsmaßstab gelang ebenfalls. Das Aktivitätsscreening der Ausrüstungen zeigte, dass ein saurer Oberflächen-pH-Wert von ≤ 4 durch die entwickelte Ausrüstung möglich ist und zu einem antibakteriellen Effekt führt. Die Abrasionsbeständigkeit war gegeben. Nach Waschversuchen verloren die Ausrüstungen zum Teil ihren antibakteriellen Effekt.
Insgesamt ergab sich ein Einblick in den Nutzen von Polyoxometallaten als katalytisch aktive Substanz, die zur Ausrüstung von Textilien geeignet ist. Da die in diesem Forschungsvorhaben synthetisierten Polyoxometallate keine genotoxische und mutagene Aktivität aufweisen, können die KMU des textilveredelnden Wirtschaftszweigs eine neue Art der antibakteriellen Ausrüstung anwenden. Um eine Waschstabile Ausrüstung zu erzielen, müssen die Funktionalisierungen und darüber die Bindung der Polyoxometallate an die Ausrüstungsmatrix jedoch weiterentwickelt werden.
Die Ziele des Forschungsvorhabens wurden erreicht.
Purpose of the research paper is to illuminate the subject of assortment policy in the German fashion e‐commerce market. A short literature review is conducted in order to set up a system of characteristics to contemplate assortments on a strategic level. In a second step, structured observations are conducted to quantitatively analyze and compare the assortments of the leading online fashion retailers within Germany. Based on literature, the following characteristics for a classification of assortments can be identified: assortment structure, assortment size, assortment width, assortment depth, assortment consistency and rotation, price level, quality mix, fashion degree as well as the mix of private labels and manufacturer brands. Furthermore, the results of the empirical analysis show that there are currently five leaders within the nalyzed market: Amazon, Otto, Zalando, Baur and About You. Among these five market leaders, Amazon positions itself as a retailer that not only offers an enormous assortment size, but also the lowest entry prices as well as the broadest price dispersion. Through the development of the system of characteristics for assortment analysis and the examination of the current market environment, the findings of this paper contribute to the current state of the art in both theoretical and practical aspects.
Social and environmental risk management in supply chains : a survey in the clothing industry
(2015)
Almost daily, news indicates that there are environmental and social problems in globally fragmented supply chains. Even though conceptualisations of sustainable supply chain management suggest supplier-related risk management for sustainable products and processes as substantial for companies, research on how risk management for environmental and social issues in supply chains is performed has so far been neglected. This study aims at analysing both why companies in the clothing industry are performing management of social and environmental risks in their supply chain and what kind of action they are taking. Based on the literature on sustainable supply chain management and supply chain risk management as well as 10 expert interviews, a conceptual model for risk management in sustainable supply chains was developed. This model was tested in an empirical study in the clothing industry. The data were analysed by structural equation modelling. Results of the research show high statistical significance for the respective conceptual model. The main driver to perform risk management in environmental and social affairs is pressures and incentives from stakeholders. While companies’ corporate orientation mainly drives social actions, top management drives environmental affairs for differentiating themselves from competitors.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to examine the service of the new business model Curated Shopping in the fashion industry as well as to analyze if the service provides a higher costumer added value in comparison to traditional services in retail stores and e-commerce platforms. It gives implications to curated shop operators how to optimize the service in each stage of the customer buying process.
Design/methodology/approach: The research methodology applied is an empirical study that uses the principal of mystery shopping in order to investigate the provided services during the selling process.
Findings: The study showed that information about the customer should be collected carefully and as holistic as possible in order to assort a suitable outfit. The consumer is able to benefit from the service by saving time and enjoying a stress-free way of shopping. Nevertheless there are limitations in the personal service to give individual and inspiring advice by the curator caused by the physical distance to the customer.
Research limitations: The survey was conducted under 10 mystery shoppers and 4 curated shop operators in Germany, limiting findings to these mystery shoppers and operators.
Practical implications: One implication for the shop operators is to collect consumer information carefully and expand the assortment and brand portfolio in order to provide fashion goods to inspire the consumer. The shop operators are on the right track still there is huge potential to provide a more shopper-oriented service.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to assess the state of the art concerning the information demand of the sustainable consumer focusing on the characterization of the sustainable customer, the demanded information content with regard to fashion products and the expected information frame.
Findings: Key findings of this paper are that sustainable consumers share certain psychographics such as sustainable knowledge and perceived customer effectiveness. So demanded information content is about general sustainable knowledge and the concrete impact of sustainable purchase behavior. Fashion product attributes demanded are details about production, material and the after-purchase use. Concerning the information frame, consumers expect information to be credible, transparent and comprehensible. Eco-labels play an important role within the information frame.
Mit der vorliegenden Broschüre möchten wir allen studentischen und wissenschaftlichen Hilfskräften sowie Studierenden, die eine solche Tätigkeit in Betracht ziehen, helfen, ihre Rechte kennenzulernen und durchzusetzen. Und wir möchten sie ermuntern, sich in der Bildungsgewerkschaft GEW gemeinsam mit Kolleginnen und Kollegen für die Verbesserung ihrer Rechte zu engagieren.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyse the main elements of successful customer loyalty programs in general and emotional components of the buying process in order to determine loyalty programs for fashion retailers.
Findings: The results of this study indicate that loyalty programs in fashion retail require considerable non-monetary benefits such as sense of exclusive membership and enhanced status to distinguish from competitors customer loyalty programs.
This paper investigates if food ^ retailing mobile applications from Germany, Austria, USA and the United Kingdom are meant to stay a marginal topic in grocery shopping, or if they have the potential to significantly shape the future of grocery retailing by serving as competitive advantages that can fulfil customer requirements and satisfaction. It has filtered out success factors in form of functions of grocery apps and it has extracted key competencies that can be used to create customer value. The Kano model can help selecting the right app functions. But, there are other prerequisites, like customers’ general attitude towards technology and their acceptance towards any kind of apps, that play an important role looking at the big picture of apps in grocery retailing. However, this paper has contributed one vital part of giving more importance to apps in grocery retailing in form of app functions that clearly deliver customer value. In short, apps that fit customers’ needs and that provide usability and convenience clearly have the potential to shape the future of grocery retailing - if key barriers towards app use are eliminated and if incentives are given that overcome scepticism.
In times of e-commerce and digitalization, new markets are opening, young companies have the possibility to grow and new perspectives arise in terms of customer relationship. Customers require more possibilities of personalization. In the same time, companies have access to new and especially more information about the customer. Seems like it was a correlation that could evolve greatly if there weren't privacy issues. Vast amount of data about consumers are collected in Big Data warehouses. These shall be analyzed via predictive analytics and customers shall be classified by algorithms like clustering models, propensity models or collaborative filtering. All these subjects are growing in importance, as they are shaping the global marketing landscape. Marketers develop together with IT scientists new ways of analyzing customer databases and benefit from more accurate segmentation methods as that have been used until now. The following paper shall provide a literature review on new methods of consumer segmentation regarding the high inflow of new information via e-commerce. It will introduce readers in the subject of predictive analytics and will discuss several predictive models. The writing of the paper is not based on own empirical researches, but shall serve as a reference text for further researches. A conclusion will complete the paper.
Das Knie ist das am häufigsten von Verletzungen betroffene Gelenk beim Skifahren. Durch die Messung bestimmter Einflussfaktoren, wie Kniewinkel und Muskelaktivität, kann eine Aussage über die Wahrscheinlichkeit einer drohenden Verletzung getroffen werden. Diese Daten können als Basis genutzt werden, um eine entsprechende Reaktion des Bindungssystems des Skis hervorzurufen. Durch die automatische Auslösung der Skibindung bei der Überschreitung der Grenzwerte wird das Knie entlastet, um möglichen Verletzungen vorzubeugen. Im Rahmen eines Forschungsprojekts der TU München wurde von einem Team der TU München und der Hochschule Reutlingen eine Skiunterhose entwickelt, mit der in Echtzeit der Kniewinkel erfasst und drahtlos an eine Auswerteeinheit gesendet werden kann.
In addition to increased safety by detecting possible overload, continuous component monitoring by sensor integration makes the use of fiber reinforced plastics more cost-effective. Since the components are continuously monitored, one can switch from time-based to condition-based maintenance. However, the integration of conventional sensor components causes weak points, as foreign objects are inserted into the reinforcing structure. In this paper, we examine the use of the textile reinforcement as a sensor in itself. We describe how bending sensors can be formed by slightly modifying in the composite’s reinforcement structure. We investigated two different sensor principles. (1) The integration of textile plate capacitors into the structure; (2) The construction of textile piezo elements as part of the reinforcing structure. The bending test results reveal that textile plate capacitors show a load-dependent signal output. The samples with textile piezo elements show a significant increase in signal strength.
Woven piezoelectric sensors as part of the textile reinforcement of fiber reinforced plastics
(2019)
Sensor integration in fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) structures enables online process and structural health monitoring (SHM). This paper describes the development and application of woven fabric-based piezoelectric impact and bending sensors for integration into FRP. The work focuses on design and characterization of woven piezoelectric sensors, especially as a part of the reinforcement structure. The reinforcement of the component acts as a sensor in itself and therefore no additional external objects in the form of sensor components or sensor fibers, which could create unwanted weak points within the FRP, are added. The bending test results reveal a direct relationship between the applied load and the sensor signal. Furthermore, the appropriate sensor position in the component cross section was determined and the influence of thermal polarization on the sensor properties was investigated.
There is no doubt that the amplification of channel integration towards an omni-channel structure is a powerful idea whose time has finally come. The digitally cross-linked world postulates all-encompassing, ubiquitous, and unobtrusive future services. In the concomitant, increasingly competitive market, retailers are starting to lay the foundation for omnichannel, meeting the expectations of a digitally cunning audience wanting their shopping experience to be as seamless and uncomplicated as possible. Nevertheless, recent researches show that there are still enough avenues for further research on omnichannel. Until now, the performance of companies was solely considered by experts from a suppliers’ point of view. It would be rather interesting to find out whether the desire to meet the increased cus-tomer expectations is also recognized by the customers themselves. This paper seeks to answering how the purchasing behavior has changed and what customers demand. In addition, it elaborates the opportunities that are promoted by omni-channel. Searching out all the effects, the paper will get to a final step, where it can be attested how the omnichannel performance of fashion and lifestyle retailers can be measured from a consumers’ perspective by developing an exclusive index. The study is confined to four fashion and lifestyle retailers: Hugo Boss AG, Levi Strauss & Co, Pull and Bear as well as COS. Using the scientific method of mystery shopping and a multi-item checklist including 54 key performance indicators, the paper aims to examine to which extend the four selected retailers provide a seamless customer journey, according to the five decision-making phases.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to analyze if the practice of emotional fashion advertising has ethical dimensions, which must be considered by the companies using those advertising approaches in order to adhere to their general ethical and social responsibility.
Findings: First it was shown that companies have a social and hence ethical responsibility toward the society they operate in and that this responsibility includes their marketing and advertising activities. Furthermore it was examined how emotional advertising works in order to analyze this practice from an ethical point of view. It was shown that an emotional advertising approach can have negative effects on consumers and therefore could jeopardize a company's ethical responsibility.
Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten werden in zahlreichen internationalen Studien sowie von der OECD (2017) als Schlüsselkompetenzen des 21. Jahrhunderts definiert. Ungeachtet dessen orientieren sich viele Lehr-Lern Methoden noch immer an der Vermittlung vordefinierter Lösungswege. Studien im Sekundarbereich in den USA, Deutschland und Asien zeigen, dass Design Thinking durch seine kreativen und kollaborativen Elemente zu einem nachhaltigeren Lernerfolg bei Lernenden und seitens der Lehrenden zu höherer Zufriedenheit bei der Vermittlung der Inhalte führen kann.
Kernelemente des Design Thinking sind: der iterative Prozess mit seinen Phasen Verstehen, Beobachten, Sichtweisen definieren, Ideen finden, Prototypen bauen, Testen; die Arbeit in multidisziplinären Teams sowie die Nutzerorientierung bei der Definition der Aufgabe (Brown, 2009). Die Phasen des iterativen Prozesses weisen eine hohe Kongruenz mit den prozessorientierten Kompetenzen des Faches Kunst/Werken und des Sachunterrichts gemäß dem Bildungsplan für Grundschulen (Ministerium für Kultus, Jugend und Sport Baden Württemberg, 2016) auf. Im Rahmen eines interdisziplinären Promotionsvorhabens an der PH Freiburg soll, basierend auf einem qualitativen Forschungsdesign, untersucht werden, inwieweit sich Design Thinking eignet, Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten von Grundschulkindern in Kunst/Werken und im Sachunterricht aus Sicht von Lehrpersonen zu fördern. Vorstudien mit Lehrpersonen und Ausbildungslehrkräften, bei welchen Erhebungen per Fragebogen nach Teilnahme an einem Design Thinking Workshop eingesetzt wurden, sowie zwei Pilotunterrichtseinheiten an Grundschulen mit Teilnehmender Beobachtung, Experteninterviews und Kinderinterviews in Kleingruppen, zeigen erste Ergebnisse.
Im Forschungsprojekt "Innovative Methoden für die teilnehmerorientierte Schulungsentwicklung in der beruflichen Weiterbildung" wurden die Prinzipien des Design Thinkings und der nutzerzentrierten Produktentwicklung auf die Konzeption von Veranstaltungen der beruflichen Weiterbildung transferiert. In zwei Vergleichsgruppen mit Schulungsteilnehmenden eines Industriepartners und eines öffentlich-rechtlichen Anbieters konnte aufgezeigt werden, dass es möglich ist, Weiterbildungsveranstaltungen mit Methoden des Design Thinkings zu erforschen und weiterzuentwickeln und damit die User Experience - das Nutzererleben der Teilnehmenden - positiv zu beeinflussen.
Creativity, problem-solving skills and the ability for collaborative work are considered key competences for facing the challenges of the 21st century. Children are born with an inherent creativity that decreases throughout their school careers. A research team of designers and educators investigates whether the implementation of Design Thinking (DT) in textile education in German elementary schools is a suitable method to preserve children’s creativity. Initial surveys with teachers and pilot studies in elementary schools showed high motivation and openmindedness towards DT in classroom. The challenge will be to develop suitable teaching modules for elementary schools of the federal state Baden Württemberg.
Ein Forscherteam der Pädagogischen Hochschule Freigburg und der Hochschule Reutlingen mit Expertisen in Kommunikationsdesign und einer ästhetisch-kulturellen Fachdidaktik der Grundschulpädagogik erforscht, inwieweit sich der iterative Prozess und Prinzipien des Design Thinking eignen, Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten von Grundschulkindern zu födern. Grundlage der Überlegungen sind die prozessorientierten Kompetenzen der Fächer Kunst/Werken und Sachunterricht gemäß dem aktuellen Bildungsplan in Baden-Württemberg. Nach Vortstudien mit Lehrpersonen und Ausbildungslehrkräften wurde eine Unterrichtseinheit konzipiert, in welcher Kinder der dritten Klassenstufe mittels Design Thinking den perfekten Leseort umsetzen sollten.
Leuchtturm NVLA
(2015)
"Wir etablieren die Nassvliestechnik in Reutlingen", verkündete Prof. Dr. Volker Jehle, Leiter des Lehr- und Forschungszentrums für interaktive Materialien an der Hochschule Reutlingen, gegenüber avr. Und er meinte damit die jüngst installierte Nassvliespilotanlage NVLA 53 der Firma Pill Nassvliestechnik (NVT), sein "Forschungsleuchtturm", mit dem man spannende Zukunftsthemen meistern könne. Im Gespräch mit avr erklären Prof. Jehle und Helmuth Pill, was die Anlage so drauf hat, die Einzige übrigens, die europaweit an einer Hochschule/Universität läuft.
Processing of recycled carbon fibers by wet-laid technology has many advantages. The fibers are implemented in water - no dusk formation. Further benefits are the light density of the fabric and the implementation of other layers (multilayer). First results of recyled carbon fibers from composite parts are showing good performances.
Schweißerschutzkleidung muss unterschiedlichen Anforderungen genügen. Sie muss u.a. flammfest sein, den Schweißer vor Metallspritzern schützen, die beim Schweißen entstehen, und auch einen Schutz vor UV-Licht sicherstellen, das im Schweißbogen entsteht. Besonders der Schutz vor Metallspritzern wird durch das Flächengewicht der Textilien bestimmt. Der entsprechende Schutzfaktor wird durch Tropfen flüssigen Eisens bestimmt, die auf ein Gewebe fallen. Dabei gilt: je höher das Flächengewicht, desto höher der Schutz vor Schweißspritzern. Jedoch gilt auch: je höher das Flächengewicht, desto schlechter ist der Tragekomfort und desto wärmender ist die Kleidung und damit die körperliche Belastung des Trägers. Durch die Applikation von Nanopartikeln ist es möglich, das benötigte Flächengewicht der Kleidung zu reduzieren.
Schweißerschutzkleidung muss unterschiedlichen Anforderungen genügen. Sie muss u.a. flammfest sein, den Schweißer vor Metallspritzern schützen, die beim Schweißen entstehen, und auch einen Schutz vor UV-Licht sicherstellen, das im Schweißbogen entsteht. Besonders der Schutz vor Metallspritzern wird durch das Flächengewicht der Textilien bestimmt. Der entsprechende Schutzfaktor wird durch Tropfen flüssigen Eisens bestimmt, die auf ein Gewebe fallen. Dabei gilt: je höher das Flächengewicht, desto höher der Schutz vor Schweißspritzern. Jedoch gilt auch: je höher das Flächengewicht, desto schlechter ist der Tragekomfort und desto wärmender ist die Kleidung und damit die körperliche Belastung des Trägers. Durch die Applikation von Nanopartikeln ist es möglich, das benötigte Flächengewicht der Kleidung zu reduzieren.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
Protective welding clothing must meet various requirements. Among other things, it must be flame-resistant, protect against splashes of metal or sparks and also ensure protection against radiant heat and UV light caused by exposure to the welding arc. The protection against molten metal splashes is directly related to the fabric weight per unit area of the protective welding clothing and the level of protection is normally determined by the number of molten metal droplets that fall on the fabric. The higher the weight per unit area, the greater the protection against welding spatter. However, increasing the fabric weight per unit area also leads to psychologically uncomfortable wearing and thus increasing the physical strain on the wearer. The required basis weight per unit area of protective welding clothing can be reduced by applying nanoparticles as a protective layer while preserving other indispensable properties.
The sol-gel approach offers a new class of flame retardants with a high potential for textile applications. Pure inorganic sol-gel systems do, however, typically not provide an effect sufficient for a sel-fextinguishing behavior on its own. We therefore employed compounds with nitrogen and phosphorous containing groups. Especially the combination of compounds with both elements, using the synergism, is promising for the aim to find well-applicable, environmental friendly, halogen-free flame retardants. In our approach, the sol-gel network ensured on the one hand the link to the textile as nonflammable binder. On the other hand, the sol-gel-based networks modified with functional groups containing nitrogen groups provided flame retardancy. In this way, a flame retardant finishing for textiles could be obtained by simple finishing techniques as, e.g., padding. Besides a characterization with various flame tests (e.g., according to EN ISO 15025 e protective clothing), we used a combination of cone calorimetry, thermogravimetry coupled with infrared spectroscopy analysis and scanning electron microscopy to analyze the mechanism of flame retardancy. Thus, we could show that the main mechanism is based on the formation of a protection layer. This work provides a model system for sol-gel-based flame retardants and has the potential to show the principle feasibility of the sol-gel approach in flame retardancy of textiles. It therefore lays the groundwork for tailoring sol-gel layers from newly synthesized sol-gel precursors containing nitrogen and phosphorous groups.
Sol-Gel basierte Flammschutzmittel stellen einen vielversprechenden Ansatz für Textilien dar, gerade im Bereich des Ersatzes von derzeit etablierten halogenhaltigen Flammschutzmitteln. Letztere sind aufgrund ihrer toxikologisch Bedenklichkeit sowie ihrer mitunter bioakkumulierenden Eigenschaften in die Kritik geraten. In diesem Forschungsvorhaben wurde daher untersucht auf welche Weise ein Flammschutz per Sol-Gel-Ansatz auf Stickstoff- und/oder Phosphorbasis als halogenfreie Alternative verwirklicht werden kann. Die Sol-Gel-Schicht fungierte dabei zum einen als nicht brennbarer Binder, zum anderen konnten über das Einführen entsprechender funktioneller Seitenketten für den Flammschutz aktive Gruppen direkt mit eingebunden werden. Verschiedene Ansätze wurden dabei verfolgt. Vor allem durch die Nutzung von additivierten Systemen, d.h. durch Sol-Gel-Schichten mit Zusätzen von stickstoff- und/oder phosphorhaltigen Verbindungen konnte ein Flammschutz nach DIN EN ISO 15025 (Schutzkleidung – Schutz gegen Hitze und Flammen) erhalten werden. Anhand eines Modellsystems, bei dem in zwei aufeinanderfolgenden Schritten zuerst eine funktionalisierte Sol-Gel-Schicht und anschließend eine Phosphorverbindung in einem zweiten Schritt aufgebracht wurde, konnten die Vorteile des Flammschutzes auf Sol-Gel-Basis nachgewiesen werden. Dabei wurde unter anderem auch gezeigt, dass ein Mechanismus auf Basis der Bildung einer Schutzschicht hauptsächlich verantwortlich für den Flammschutz ist. Dieses Ergebnis ist für eine zukünftige, weitere Optimierung entsprechender Ausrüstungen nicht zu unterschätzen. Durch Ausrüstungsversuche im semi-industriellen Maßstab konnte weiterhin gezeigt werden, dass einer großtechnischen Umsetzung der angewandten Ausrüstungen prinzipiell nichts im Wege steht. Abstriche müssen bis dato lediglich bezüglich der Waschstabilität gemacht werden. Die Sol-Gel-Schichten überstanden zwar im allgemeinen typische Waschprozesse, eine Permanenz der Flammfestigkeit von additivierten Systemen ergab sich aber nur in einzelnen Fällen. Ausgehend von den Ergebnissen wurde ein neuer Ansatz vorgestellt, der über den hier zugrundeliegenden Ansatz hinausgeht. Dieser sieht vor, durch den Einsatz von neu-synthetisierten Silanen mit Stickstoff- und Phosphorgruppen Sol-Gel-Schichten herzustellen, die ein vielversprechendes Verhalten zeigen. Hier konnte auch nach ersten Waschtests eine Aufrechterhaltung der verbesserten Flammfestigkeit nachgewiesen werden. Insgesamt konnte innerhalb des Forschungsvorhabens gezeigt werden, dass ein Flammschutz auf Sol-Gel-Basis für Textilien erhalten werden kann. Darüberhinaus konnte auch erklärt werden auf welchem Mechanismus dieser Flammschutz begründet ist und wie die derzeit noch ungenügende Waschpermanenz verbessert werden kann.
Schnittschutzhosen stellen ein wesentliches Element der persönlichen Schutzausrüstung des Forstwirts dar, da sie schwerwiegende Verletzungen bei der Motorsägenarbeit verhindern können. Dies setzt aber eine entsprechende Pflege voraus. Welche Veränderungen die Fasern der Schnittschutzeinlage durch Waschvorgänge erfahren und welche Auswirkungen sich dadurch auf die Schnittsicherheit ergeben, wurde im Rahmen eines Forschungsprojektes untersucht
This case study of Breuninger aims to analyze how Breuninger adapts to the emerging omnichannel environment in fashion business. From a consumer’s perspective Breuninger and the general omnichannel strategy of Breuninger is explained, before the loyalty program of Breuninger is analyzed in detail. Key factors as the mobile app and the mobile Breuninger card, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are described. A discussion chapter finalizes the case.
Loyalty programs become more important in an omnichannel environment of fashion retail business. After the definition of customer loyalty and loyalty programs the main characteristics of omnichannel loyalty programs are described. As touchpoints of omnichannel loyalty programs mobile, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are detailed. A discussion chapter closes with recommendations for fashion retailers.
This case study describes the emerging customized omnichannel loyalty solution of Marc O’Polo from a customer’s perspective. After the introduction of Marc O’Polo and their general omnichannel strategy, the loyalty program is described in detail, like Marc O’Polo for members and the mobile app, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities. A discussion chapter closes the case study with research implications and open questions for Marc O’Polo.
Cotton contamination by honeydew is considered one of the significant problems for quality in textiles as it causes stickiness during manufacturing. Therefore, millions of dollars in losses are attributed to honeydew contamination each year. This work presents the use of UV hyperspectral imaging (225–300 nm) to characterize honeydew contamination on raw cotton samples. As reference samples, cotton samples were soaked in solutions containing sugar and proteins at different concentrations to mimic honeydew. Multivariate techniques such as a principal component analysis (PCA) and partial least squares regression (PLS-R) were used to predict and classify the amount of honeydew at each pixel of a hyperspectral image of raw cotton samples. The results show that the PCA model was able to differentiate cotton samples based on their sugar concentrations. The first two principal components (PCs) explain nearly 91.0% of the total variance. A PLS-R model was built, showing a performance with a coefficient of determination for the validation (R2cv) = 0.91 and root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) = 0.036 g. This PLS-R model was able to predict the honeydew content in grams on raw cotton samples for each pixel. In conclusion, UV hyperspectral imaging, in combination with multivariate data analysis, shows high potential for quality control in textiles.
The replacement of conventional material with recyclates affects product personality, particularly regarding sustainability aspects influencing consumer behaviour. A definition of personality for products made of recyclates is missing in literature. As these products require appropriate aesthetics based on material origin to communicate the advantage concerning sustainability, there is a need for research in this regard. This paper aims to develop an adequate personality of a reusable water bottle made of ocean plastic by collecting personality traits that evoke associations related to the material's origin and sustainability. We conducted two quantitative field studies. Study 1 collected associated visual perceived attributes and context-related personality traits in order to develop and visualize a preliminary design. Study 2 evaluated the design regarding associated personality traits. The overall outcome was a product personality scale consisting of 23 items plus a concrete design recommendation for a water bottle made of recycled ocean plastic. The assessment of degree of sustainability was strongly influenced by participants’ associations with personal use, familiarity with usage and the factor of stability and resilience.
Today's pattern making methods for industrial purposes are including construction principles, which are based on mathematical formula and sizing charts. As a result, there are two-dimensional flats, which can be converted into a three-dimensional garment. Because of their high linearity, those patterns are incapable of recreating the complexity of the human body, which results in insufficient fit. Subsequent changes of the pattern require a high degree of experience and lead to an inefficient product development process. It is known that draping allows the development of more complex and demanding patterns, which corresponds more to the actual body shape. Therefore, this method is used in custom tailoring and haute couture to achieve perfect garment fit but is also associated with time.
So, there is the act of defiance to improve the fit of garments, to speed up production but maintain a good value for money. Reutlingen University is therefore working on the development of 3D-modelled body shapes for 3D draping, considering different layers of clothing, such as jackets or coats. For this purpose, 3D modelling is used to develop 3D-bodies that correspond to the finished dimensions of the garment. By flattening of the modelled body, it is then possible to obtain an optimal 2D Pattern of the body. The comparison of the conventional method and the developed method is done by 3D simulation.
Finally, the optical fit test is demonstrated by the simulated basic cuts, that a significantly better body wrapping through the newly developed methodology could be achieved. Unlike in the basic cuts, which were achieved by classical design principles have been created, only a few adjustments are necessary to obtain an optimized basic cut. Also, when considering the body distance, it is shown that the newly developed basic patterns provide a more even enclosure of the body.
The current paper studies the influence of geometrical parameters of the fused deposition modeling (FDM) - fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printing process on printed part strength for open source desktop 3D printers and the most popular material used for that purpose - i.e., polylactic acid (PLA). The study was conducted using a set of different nozzles (0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 mm) and a range of layer heights from the minimum to maximum physical limits of the machine. To assess print strength, a novel assessment method is proposed. A tubular sample is loaded in the weakest direction (across layers) in a three point bending fixture. Mesostructure evaluation through scanning electronic microscopy (SEM) scans of the samples was used to explain the obtained results. We detected a significant influence of geometric process parameters on sample mesostructure, and consequently, on sample strength.
A distinctive highlight of the dissertation at hand is the investigation of multiple apparel supply chain actors incorporating the views of a global apparel retailer in Europe and multiple suppliers in Vietnam and Indonesia.
More specifically, the dissertation presents a coherent investigation starting with the depiction of a conceptual framework for social management strategies as a means for social risk management (SRM), exclusively aiming at the apparel industry. In accordance to the identified research gaps and suggested research directions from the conceptual framework, the role of the apparel sourcing agent for social management strategies was analysed by conducting a multiple case study approach with evidence from Vietnam and Europe, ultimately suggesting ten propositions. Whereas a further multiple case study data collection in Vietnam, Indonesia and Europe allowed for the investigation of buyer-supplier relationships with regards to social compliance strategies by using core tenets of agency theory to interpret the findings and outline ten propositions. Based on the development of a conceptual framework on social SSCM in the apparel industry, the formulation of related 20 propositions with evidence from crucial developing (apparel sourcing) countries, and the application of agency theory which has been declared as a shortfall in this context, this thesis contributes with further grounding to SSCM theory and substantially contributes to the debate by addressing numerous research gaps.
This paper explores why and how dominant international social standards used in the fashion industry are prone to implementation failures. A qualitative multiple-case study method was conducted, using purposive sampling to select 13 apparel supply chain actors. Data were collected through on-site semi-structured face-to-face interviews. The findings of the study are interpreted by using core tenets of agency theory. The case study findings clearly highlight why and how multi-tier apparel supply chains fail to implement social standards effectively. As a consequence of substantial goal conflicts and information asymmetries, sourcing agents and suppliers are driven to perform opportunistic behaviors in form of hidden characteristics, hidden intentions, and hidden actions, which significantly harm social standards. Fashion retailers need to empower their corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments by awarding an integrative role to sourcing decisions. Moreover, accurate calculation of orders, risk sharing, cost sharing, price premiums, and especially guaranteed order continuity for social compliance are critical to reduce opportunistic behaviors upstream of the supply chain. The development of social standards is highly suggested, e.g., by including novel metrics such as the assessment of buying practices or the evaluation of capacity planning at factories and the strict inclusion of subcontractors’ social performances. This paper presents evidence from multiple Vietnamese and Indonesian cases involving sourcing agents as well as Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers on a highly sensitive topic. With the development of the conceptual framework and the formulation of seven related novel propositions, this paper unveils the ineffectiveness of social standards, offers guidance for practitioners, and contributes to the neglected social dimension in sustainable supply chain management research and accountability literature.
After considering significant literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), it is evident that research has neglected the social dimension and still lacks in highlighting the role of sourcing intermediaries in supply chains. The apparel supply chain has increased enormously in length and complexity, driving apparel retailers to employ sourcing intermediaries who manage their sourcing activities with suppliers from developing countries overseas. Thus, the purpose of this study is to enrich existing findings on SSCM by exploring the management of social sustainability when sourcing intermediaries are in between the focal company and the respective developing country factories. More specifically, this study aims to understand the role of apparel sourcing intermediaries for the implementation of social management strategies based on the perception of multiple supply chain actors. Qualitative data was collected through semi-structured interviews conducted in Vietnam and Europe. Ultimately ten propositions are presented, all explicitly concentrating on the apparel intermediary’s role as a significant enabler for social sustainability in apparel supply chains. The roles are social sustainability, supplier developer and coordinator, gatekeeper and safeguard, cultural broker, and social risk manager. The social sustainability roles assumed by the apparel sourcing intermediary offer great opportunities to both apparel retailers and developing country factories.
Social sustainable supply chain management in the textile and apparel industry : a literature review
(2017)
So far, a vast amount of studies on sustainability in supply chain management have been conducted by academics over the last decade. Nevertheless, socially related aspects are still neglected in the related discussion. The primary motivation of the present literature review has arisen from this shortcoming, thus the key purpose of this study is to enrich the discussion by providing a state of-the-art, focusing exclusively on social issues in sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) by considering the textile/apparel sector as the field of application. The authors conduct a literature review, including content analysis which covers 45 articles published in English peer-reviewed journals, and proposes a comprehensive map which integrates the latest findings on socially related practices in the textile/apparel industry with the dominant conceptualization in order to reveal potential research areas in the field. The results show an ongoing lack of investigation regarding the social dimension of the triple bottom line in SSCM. Findings indicate that a company’s internal orientation is the main assisting factor in sustainable supply chain management practices. Further, supplier collaboration and assessment can be interpreted as an offer for suppliers deriving from stakeholders and a focal company’s management of social risk. Nevertheless, suppliers do also face or even create huge barriers in improving their social performance. This calls for more empirical research and qualitative or quantitative survey methods, especially at the supplier level located in developing countries.