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Im dritten Jahr der Rezession drehte sich in Mailand alles um die italienische Lebensart und um das Erbe der großen Designer. Die spektakulären Inszenierungen fehlten weitgehend auf der Messe und in den Schauräumen rund um die Via Durini, dafür hatte man sich auf das Produkt konzentriert. Wiederbelebung der Erfolgsmodelle, Überarbeitung in Material und Farbe, Fokus auf große Namen, das waren die Botschaften in Mailand. Eine menschlich existentielle Antwort auf die Krise der letzten Jahre, aber auch Hoffnung und Aufbruchsstimmung waren zu spüren. Die Eurozone erholt sich, politischer Neubeginn und selbstbewusste Kommunikation italienischer Kultur in Stil und Design, das waren die Botschaften, die die Messe und auch die Aussteller des "Fuorisalone" vermittelten.
For a holistic assessment of the interaction between the human body and tight fitted clothing, it is necessary to consider the mechanical properties of the body. Default avatars in CAD software are usually solid and do not take this interaction into account. For this purpose, a solid avatar is converted to a deformable one by using the soft body physics implementation in the simulation program Blender. The fit of a 3D garment on both avatars are compared, which allows a first evaluation of the differences between these approaches.
Hochschulabsolventen sind für Unternehmen eine der wichtigsten Quellen für die Nachwuchsrekrutierung. Doch wie erreichen Sie die jungen Studenten am Besten? Eine bloße Ausschreibung einer Stelle auf der Unternehmenswebseite reicht nicht mehr aus. Wir zeigen Ihnen, wie Sie bereits vor dem Bewerbungsprozess in der Lebenswirklichkeit (Relevant Set) der Studierenden präsent werden, um überhaupt als Arbeitgeber in Betracht gezogen zu werden.
The strong demand for a transformation of the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability requires a continuous implementation of the guiding principle of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) in education and industry [1, 2]. In a first step of the European research project "Sustainable fashion curriculum at textile Universities in Europe - Development, Implementation and Evaluation of a Teaching Module for Educators" (Fashion DIET) a continuing education module shall be created to implement ESD as a guiding principle in university teaching. The research-based teaching and learning materials are delivered through an e-learning portal.
Three established test methods employed for evaluating the abrasion or wear resistance of textile materials were compared to gain deeper insight into the specific damaging mechanisms to better understand a possible comparability of the results of the different tests. The knowledge of these mechanisms is necessary for a systematic development of finishing agents improving the wear resistance of textiles. Martindale, Schopper, and Einlehner tests were used to analyze two different fabrics made of natural (cotton) or synthetic (polyethylene terephthalate) fibers, respectively. Samples were investigated by digital microscopy and scanning electron microscopy to visualize the damage. Damage symptoms are compared and discussed with respect to differences in the damaging mechanisms.
Abreinigbare Schlauchfilter kommen zur Abscheidung von Stäuben sowie staubförmigen Substanzen zum Einsatz. Aufgrund typischer Prozessbedingungen unterliegen sie während ihres Einsatzes thermischer, chemischer und mechanischer Beanspruchung. Das IGF-Projekt Nr. 18307 "Untersuchung der chemischen und thermischen Degradation von abreinigbaren Filtermedien und Verbesserung deren Beständigkeit durch Oberflächenmodifikation" hat mehrere Prüfmethoden verglichen.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The pH value of the human skin is not in the neutral range but is slightly acidic with values of – depending on the body part – 3.5 to 6. This provides a suitable habitat for the commensal skin floral but has a killing effect on some pathogenic micro-organisms and an inactivating effect on some viruses. This protective acid mantle of the skin thus represents a first external protective layer against infestation by pathogens. An appropriate surface pH on textiles can help to minimize the transmission of pathogens through the clothing of healthcare workers while at the same time not exerting a negative influence on the skin’s own flora. In addition, the colonization of e.g. bed linen by pathogenic microorganisms can be reduced. This can also have a positive influence on bacteria-associated odor formation on functional clothing.
The following paper is dealing with the issue on which actual consumer lifestyle segmentation methods there are for particular European countries and accordingly for Europe as a whole. This is important for corporations to be able to place their products accurately by a consumer orientated marketing concerning the constant change of values and minds. Researching current literature, internet sources and documents, the state of the science is presented by a detailed description of the most popular lifestyle segmentation methods used in European countries. In addition to that, these instruments are discussed individually and then compared to each other. All instruments, the Sinus-Milieus, Euro-Socio-Styles, Roper-Consumer-Styles, RISC and Mosaic, are serving the same purpose even so they differ pretty much from each other. Each market research company has its own method to generate their model just as different segments and definitions for them. Furthermore every segmentation method is illustrated in a different way. This paper demonstrates all these instruments in detail and shows its advantages and disadvantages. Summing up literature research concerning the main research question, there are several models segmenting consumers in different lifestyle groups for e.g. in Germany, France or Great Britain, but still less models referring to the entire European market.
Obwohl dem Menschen derzeit über 60 verschiedene Faserstoffe aus natürlicher und chemischer Produktion zur Verfügung stehen, reichen die Funktionen bzw. Funktionskombinationen dieser Fasern für die Anforderungen in den unterschiedlichsten Anwendungsgebieten von Textilien nicht immer aus. Um sich auch in Zukunft in diesem innovativen Markt behaupten zu können, müssen die Anbieter technischer und funktionaler Textilien stets auf dem Stand der Technik bleiben. Einen sehr wichtigen Anteil an neuen Entwicklungen haben dabei die Technologien der Textilveredlung.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between fashion businesses and film from a fashion business perspective. It focuses on the idea that digitalization brought much more film use for the fashion industry and that this development has just begun and not ended. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as fashion companies nowadays are content producers with films, too. The resulting closer connection with viewers via social media exposes fashion companies, gives on the other hand new influence potential to the fashion system. An in-depth future research about the fashion and film system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
The purpose of this paper is to give an overview about the links between the fashion and music industry. It focuses on the idea that digitalization has broken the rules of the traditional music industry value chain. This touches both the production and the consumption side of music. This change finally also has an intense impact on the fashion industry, as the music industry has been big supplier of fashion trends itself. The absence of this supplier plus the changes within the fashion industry itself by the fast-fashion development are considered as a reason for more competition and therefore price pressure. An in-depth future research about the fashion and music system is therefore required to develop answers for the current situation. This article should be interpreted more as a personal viewpoint of the author to this topic rather than a research paper based on the usual methodological criteria.
Today, digitalization is firmly anchored in society and business. It is also recognized to have significant impact on the retailing sector. The in-store display of moving images has so far, however, gained little attention by researchers. The aim of this research is to provide a first estimation on the current state of moving images distribution in stationary retail stores. A store check was the basis for analysis and evaluation. In sum, 152 stores were analyzed in Stuttgart, Germany. Out of 152 observed stores, 62 stores showed 177 moving images. Detailed analyses about content, mood, color and the actors of motion pictures showed that all aspects are very well harmonized with the target group of the store. The chapter provides a basic estimation of the in-store diffusion of moving images. Thereby, avenues for further research are opened up.
Like many others, fashion companies have to deal with a global and very competitive environment. Thus companies rely on accurate sales forecasts - as key success factor of an efficient supply chain management. However, forecasters have to take into account some specificities of the fashion industry. To respond to these constraints, a variety of different forecasting methods exists, including new, computer-based predictive analytics. After the evaluation of different methods, their application to the fashion industry is investigated through semi structured expert interviews. Despite several benefits predictive analytics is not yet frequently used in practice. This research does not only reflect an industry profile, but also gives important insights about the future potential and obstacles of predictive analytics.
Cotton contamination by honeydew is considered one of the significant problems for quality in textiles as it causes stickiness during manufacturing. Therefore, millions of dollars in losses are attributed to honeydew contamination each year. This work presents the use of UV hyperspectral imaging (225–300 nm) to characterize honeydew contamination on raw cotton samples. As reference samples, cotton samples were soaked in solutions containing sugar and proteins at different concentrations to mimic honeydew. Multivariate techniques such as a principal component analysis (PCA) and partial least squares regression (PLS-R) were used to predict and classify the amount of honeydew at each pixel of a hyperspectral image of raw cotton samples. The results show that the PCA model was able to differentiate cotton samples based on their sugar concentrations. The first two principal components (PCs) explain nearly 91.0% of the total variance. A PLS-R model was built, showing a performance with a coefficient of determination for the validation (R2cv) = 0.91 and root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) = 0.036 g. This PLS-R model was able to predict the honeydew content in grams on raw cotton samples for each pixel. In conclusion, UV hyperspectral imaging, in combination with multivariate data analysis, shows high potential for quality control in textiles.
Patterns are virtually simulated in 3D CAD programs before production to check the fit. However, achieving lifelike representations of human avatars, especially regarding soft tissue dynamics, remains challenging. This is mainly since conventional avatars in garment CAD programs are simulated with a continuous hard surface and not corresponding to the human physical and mechanical body properties of soft tissue. In the real world, the human body’s natural shape is affected by the contact pressure of tight-fitting textiles. To verify the fit of a simulated garment, the interactions between the individual body shape and the garment must be considered. This paper introduces an innovative approach to digitising the softness of human tissue using 4D scanning technology. The primary objective of this research is to explore the interactions between tissue softness and different compression levels of apparel, exerting pressure on the tissue to capture the changes in the natural shape. Therefore, to generate data and model an avatar with soft body physics, it is essential to capture the deform ability and elasticity of the soft tissue and map it into the modification options for a simulation. To aim this, various methods from different fields were researched and compared to evaluate 4D scanning as the most suitable method for capturing tissue deformability in vivo. In particular, it should be considered that the human body has different deformation capabilities depending on age, the amount of muscle and body fat. In addition, different tissue zones have different mechanical properties, so it is essential to identify and classify them to back up these properties for the simulation. It has been shown that by digitising the obtained data of the different defined applied pressure levels, a prediction of the deformation of the tissue of the exact person becomes possible. As technology advances and data sets grow, this approach has the potential to reshape how we verify fit digitally with soft avatars and leverage their realistic soft tissue properties for various practical purposes.
Today many vertical retailers are operating different sales channels at the same time and are respon-sible for the range of products in all sales channels. The purpose of this paper is to examine whether for vertical fashion retailers a format-specific assortment policy can be observed on the German mar-ket. To investigate this topic in addition to secondary data of a literature research, quantitative prima-ry data was collected through a structured observation by conducting store checks. The combination provides insights into the research topic, allows to build hypotheses and to get a current and specific answer on the research topic. The study revealed all vertical retailers exploit the advantage of unlim-ited capacity of the online shop by offering in this channel mainly the broadest and deepest assort-ment. Within the retail store the vertical retailers focus on offering full-price goods for the current season in full size sets. Compared to the online shop here are less styles sophisticated presented and adjusted on the sales floor. For the outlet channel all brands showed a higher density of products and at least a price reduction of 30 per cent. The present paper is limited by time, depth and language of secondary data collection. As the study only conducted quantitative data within limited observations additional visual data over a longer period is necessary.
Purpose of the research paper is to illuminate the subject of assortment policy in the German fashion e‐commerce market. A short literature review is conducted in order to set up a system of characteristics to contemplate assortments on a strategic level. In a second step, structured observations are conducted to quantitatively analyze and compare the assortments of the leading online fashion retailers within Germany. Based on literature, the following characteristics for a classification of assortments can be identified: assortment structure, assortment size, assortment width, assortment depth, assortment consistency and rotation, price level, quality mix, fashion degree as well as the mix of private labels and manufacturer brands. Furthermore, the results of the empirical analysis show that there are currently five leaders within the nalyzed market: Amazon, Otto, Zalando, Baur and About You. Among these five market leaders, Amazon positions itself as a retailer that not only offers an enormous assortment size, but also the lowest entry prices as well as the broadest price dispersion. Through the development of the system of characteristics for assortment analysis and the examination of the current market environment, the findings of this paper contribute to the current state of the art in both theoretical and practical aspects.
Schnittschutzhosen bewahren viele Motorsägen-Benutzer vor Schnittverletzungen. Ob die im Neuzustand der Schnittschutzhose vorhandene Schnittsicherheit auch nach einem intensiven Kontakt mit Kraftstoff und Kettenschmieröl noch gewährleistet ist, wurde im Rahmen eines im Jahr 2013 abgeschlossenen Forschungsprojektes nachgegangen
Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten werden in zahlreichen internationalen Studien sowie von der OECD (2017) als Schlüsselkompetenzen des 21. Jahrhunderts definiert. Ungeachtet dessen orientieren sich viele Lehr-Lern Methoden noch immer an der Vermittlung vordefinierter Lösungswege. Studien im Sekundarbereich in den USA, Deutschland und Asien zeigen, dass Design Thinking durch seine kreativen und kollaborativen Elemente zu einem nachhaltigeren Lernerfolg bei Lernenden und seitens der Lehrenden zu höherer Zufriedenheit bei der Vermittlung der Inhalte führen kann.
Kernelemente des Design Thinking sind: der iterative Prozess mit seinen Phasen Verstehen, Beobachten, Sichtweisen definieren, Ideen finden, Prototypen bauen, Testen; die Arbeit in multidisziplinären Teams sowie die Nutzerorientierung bei der Definition der Aufgabe (Brown, 2009). Die Phasen des iterativen Prozesses weisen eine hohe Kongruenz mit den prozessorientierten Kompetenzen des Faches Kunst/Werken und des Sachunterrichts gemäß dem Bildungsplan für Grundschulen (Ministerium für Kultus, Jugend und Sport Baden Württemberg, 2016) auf. Im Rahmen eines interdisziplinären Promotionsvorhabens an der PH Freiburg soll, basierend auf einem qualitativen Forschungsdesign, untersucht werden, inwieweit sich Design Thinking eignet, Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten von Grundschulkindern in Kunst/Werken und im Sachunterricht aus Sicht von Lehrpersonen zu fördern. Vorstudien mit Lehrpersonen und Ausbildungslehrkräften, bei welchen Erhebungen per Fragebogen nach Teilnahme an einem Design Thinking Workshop eingesetzt wurden, sowie zwei Pilotunterrichtseinheiten an Grundschulen mit Teilnehmender Beobachtung, Experteninterviews und Kinderinterviews in Kleingruppen, zeigen erste Ergebnisse.
Today fiber reinforced plastics (FRP) are well established in manifold technical applications, because they provide advantages such as low weight, high stiffness, high strength and chemical resistance. The broad range of production methods starts from cost effective mass production up to the manufacturing of ultra-lightweight composite parts.
Biological materials are also usually composite materials: Higher plants or bones of higher animals are hierarchically organized and are composed of only a few materials such as lignin, cellulose, apatite and collagen. The large variety and the mechanical properties of natural tissues results primarily from an optimized fiber lay-up to adapt to the mechanical requirements of the respective “installation circumstances”.
Advanced lightweight technical solutions need strong materials and structurally optimized structures. In many industries, the structural optimization by an appropriate fiber lay-up has become an important method to save more weight. Corresponding software tools help to optimize topology/shape (e.g. Mattheck: CAO/SKO, Co. Altair: Optistruct), mainly using finite element analyzing technology.
The combination of strong lightweight materials, optimized topology and sophisticated fiber lay-up is also present in many bio-mineralized planktonic shells — for instance diatoms and radiolaria—but also in glass sponges.
Following it is shown, how the high weight-related mechanical properties of plankton are biomimetically transferred into ultra-lightweight technical structures.
This case study of Breuninger aims to analyze how Breuninger adapts to the emerging omnichannel environment in fashion business. From a consumer’s perspective Breuninger and the general omnichannel strategy of Breuninger is explained, before the loyalty program of Breuninger is analyzed in detail. Key factors as the mobile app and the mobile Breuninger card, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are described. A discussion chapter finalizes the case.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the use of sustainable closed-loop supply chain of the fashion brand Filippa K. Information on green fashion has been gathered and a case study approach on the fashion retailer
Filippa K conducted. Results show a switch in knowledge content between a fast fashion supply chain and a sustainable supply chain. Also there is an evolution in sustainability as companies, retailers, and manufactures suffer under pressure from the customers, governments, and the media. Sustainable fashion brands like Filippa K are interested in sharing precise knowledge on variety of aspects linked to the sustainable closed-loop supply chain. This research paper has been limited by less information and unexplored topics in the theme green fashion. This led to the personal critical disputation with the brand Filippa K.
Since there is no denying that transparency is increasingly central to corporate sustainability, the purpose of this paper is a case study on a company’s attempt to be fully transparent, hence, picking up the existent scholarly conversation about uncompromising supply chain transparency. Literature so far was found to be fairly limited, but, following a trend, has been rising in numbers over recent years. Addressing these shortcomings in the methodology, an in-depth literature review about the multiple dimensions of supply chain transparency has been performed and links within supply networks stressed. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the fashion label Honestby has been drafted and the effort to become the world’s first 100 % transparent company further examined. Findings are discussed whether more supply chain transparency is desirable in any case, obstacles listed and an outlook for this kind of business model has been drawn. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholarly literature concerning Honestby in particular. Out of this reason, magazines and journal entries are used as reference as well. Only with the extension of the topic itself to supply chain transparency and the literature review beforehand, the paper gained its necessary academic standard. Concerning implications, it needs to be mentioned that even though Honest by demonstrates to be fully transparent, it was not possible to find any public information about the degree of supplier relationship. In particular, concerning the applied control mechanisms used to exert influence and to balance out the power gradient between company and suppliers.
Case study: EMP
(2018)
The purpose of this research paper is to investigate the business model of the retailer EMP. The in-depth literature review develops the relevance of merchandising for the rock and heavy metal scene and the relevance of EMP within that market. Literature about existing approaches of multi-channelling has been reviewed. Based on this theoretical framework, a case study of EMP has been drafted. Findings are discussed, focusing on the performance of EMP as a multi-channel and lifestyle retailer and additionally provide valuable managerial implications for fashion retailers. Implications for further research address lifestyle retailers to contribute to the findings or validate them with different examples. The research is clearly limited by the amount of scholar literature concerning EMP in particular. Hence, magazines, journals and information provided by the company serve as reference. Even though EMP provided some information, gathering any information about how EMP manages multi channelling operationally was not possible.
This paper is purposed to examine the impact of grunge music on fashion and to explain how grunge music is reflected in grunge style. The research methodology applied is a case study on grunge music and grunge style. Key findings suggest that different elements of grunge music had a great impact on the evolution of grunge style: Mentality and philosophy of the movement, musical style and sound as well as lyrical concerns are incorporated by grunge style. Commercial exploitation of grunge partly led to its downfall. Moreover, the original spirit of the movement is not commonly shared by all sub-genres’ respective contemporary styles. Musicians had great impact on the evolution of grunge style and unintentional rose to style icons. The research is limited by the amount of academic literature concerning the connection between grunge music and grunge style. Therefore, journal entries and blogs are used as reference as well.
Case study: Marillion
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to highlight the use of crowdfunding,
demonstrated by a case study about the rock band Marillion. The research
methodology applied is a literature review examining academic references. On this basis, a case study by exemplary illustrating the rock band Marillion and how they invented crowdfunding has been drafted. Findings suggest that the crowdfunding concept is no new phenomenon, since the rock band Marillion has investigated the business model. Recently, the funding method is applied to the fashion industry; hence it is efficient and engaging to finance projects by that specific business model. A limitation of this paper is that the topic of crowdfunding is new to the fashion business and needs further research and tests until they are practicable to interpret. Results show that there is a high potential for using crowdfunding in fashion by reaching a long-term change in this industry.
Energy consumption by air-conditioning is expansive and leads to the emission of millions of tons of CO2 every year. A promising approach to circumvent this problem is the reflection of solar radiation: Rooms that would not heat up by irradiation will not need to be cooled down. Especially, transparent conductive metal oxides exhibit high infrared (IR) reflectivity and are commonly applied as low-emissivity coatings (low-e coatings). Indium tin oxide (ITO) coatings are the state-of-the-art application, though indium is a rare and expensive resource. This work demonstrates that aluminum-doped zinc oxide (AZO) can be a suitable alternative to ITO for IR-reflection applications. AZO synthesized here exhibits better emissivity to be used as roofing membrane coatings for buildings in comparison to commercially available ITO coatings. AZO particles forming the reflective coating are generated via solvothermal synthesis routes and obtain high conductivity and IR reflectivity without the need of any further post-thermal treatment. Different synthesis parameters were studied, and their effects on both conductive and optical properties of the AZO nanoparticles were evaluated. To this end, a series of characterization methods, especially 27Al-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (27Al-NMR) analysis, have been conducted for a deeper insight into the particles’ structure to understand the differences in conductivity and optical properties. The optimized AZO nanoparticles were coated on flexible transparent textile-based roofing membranes and tested as low-e coatings. The membranes demonstrated higher thermal reflectance compared with commercial ITO materials with an emissivity value lowered by 16%.
The connection of fashion and film seems symbiotic at first sight and they influence each other. There exist differences, including a different understanding of clothing by costume designers and fashion businesses. This article focuses on two successful movies „The Hunger Games“ and „The Great Gatsby“ in order to explore the role of film in fashion and vice versa. The findings suggest, that there are various collections in the fashion world, based on both movies. Therefore, movies indeed have an influence on the development of seasonal fashion. However, this connection is not natural, but rather artificially created by both industries. Through nowadays organized co-operation, the lines between costume designers and fashion designers get blurred. Furthermore, today fashion doesn’t trickle down to an audience naturally, but promoted using the film and its broad reach.
In a globalized world the importance of a proper segmentation method for identifying target consumers has been increasing. Vast majority of the research in this area focuses on the usage or development of different techniques. Lifestyle is a good criterion for dividing people into groups which then can be better targeted. This article addresses the research question, which classical methods exist to segment markets with the aid of lifestyle. The purpose of this paper is to illustrate several instruments, such as A.I.O., Roper Consumer Styles, VALS-Method, the Sinus-Milieus, Sigma-Milieus, RISC-Method and Semiometrie but also Discriminant and Conjoint Analysis which proved of value in the past. Furthermore it deals with the benefits of this methods but weaknesses are also considered. Therefore several existing literature is examined, and information is collected by institutes providing the typologies. Obvious is, that new methods e.g. predictive analytics already play a major role in marketing, because it can be found much literature about it. In the literature research also appear research implications, because besides the provided information from institutes and journals, there is hardly no data to find if and how companies use the instruments. Furthermore, some important databases cannot be scanned because they are not accessible without paying.
Cleanable bag filter : comparisons of different testing methods of ageing of filter materials
(2019)
Cleanable bag filters are used to separate dust and other airborne particulate systems. Due to typical process conditions, they are subject to thermal, chemical and mechanical stress during use. The main objective of the IGF project no. 18307 "Investigation of the chemical and thermal degradation of cleanable filter media and improvement of their resistance by surface modification", was the development of a valid test method which can reproduce degradation caused by high temperatures and aggressive chemical atmospheres in a practice-oriented but time-saving manner. Within the IGF project, 2 accelerated ageing methods were applied, both of which have the decisive advantage of investigating damage in the gas phase. Many resistances of filter materials are otherwise carried out by immersing the materials in a mostly liquid damage medium at a defined temperature. These resistances are difficult to transfer ageing in the gas phase.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how the practice of closed-loop production systems (CLPS) is implemented in the fashion industry. This paper offers a critical literature review to present a thorough understanding of the actual status of literature. Subsequently, the paper reveals that CLPS are of great importance. Generally, such systems include different activities that have to be integrated. Critical points are the product acquisition, the recovering process itself and the remarketing to the customer. A lack of reliable data concerning CLPS in the specific case of fashion industry can be identified. Important research fields could be marketing strategies, controlling the acquisition process, evolvement of return technologies and strategies, adaption of recovered products to the mass market, and the development of new technologies concerning recovering processes.
Co-design and endorsement
(2018)
The purpose of this paper is to determine the success factors regarding celebrities of the music business involved in fashion advertising. That famous people have the power to help brands and products to stand out among others is proven and popular. This paper is concentrating on successful musicians and their endorsements of fashion brands and examines the benefits for both, the brand and the artist. It investigates how consumer perceives brand and artist collaboration and what factors enhance the purchase intention and increase sales. This paper is structured in the following manner: The introduction presents the research question and sets the aim for the paper, followed by the analysis of the existing literature. The paper ends with conclusions, limitations and suggestions for further research.
The purpose of this paper is to evaluate consisting consumption patterns caused by fast fashion with a new appearing form of consumption and retaining potentials as an alternative as well as sustainable form of fast fashion consumption. This research is set up on a theoretical background of scientific literature including governmental as well as press releases in order to evaluate the status quo of consumption and answering the research question. A new consumption pattern as well as an appearing economy of sharing can be stated including potential aspects of raising businesses and sustainable alternative forms of fast fashion. The framework of the research is limited to the textile and fashion industry in industrialized countries focusing on consumption in the twenty first century.
The requirements for textiles differ greatly depending on the area of application, whereby it often does not remain with only one required functionality. For example, in the field of functional clothing or protective clothing/PPE, it is necessary to protect the textile’s wearers from UV radiation. At the same time, self-cleaning effects offer certain advantages in that field. In addition, an antimicrobial effect in functional clothing can reduce the formation of unpleasant odors, and in PPE – especially in the healthcare sector – can contribute to the interruption of the chain of infection. One way to achieve these 3 desired functions in just one finishing step is to immobilize titanium dioxide (TiO2). However, TiO2 is viewed critically for application in the textile sector due to a REACH listing. Another disadvantage is that it only takes effect under UV radiation and is therefore not suitable for indoor use. Alternatively, photocatalysts such as doped zinc oxides (ZnO) can be used, which also exhibit catalytic activity through activation by visible light, which can lead to the killing of microorganisms and the degradation of organic soiling.
The purpose of this paper is to illustrate the communication of sustainability of fashion retailers via their websites with a focus on the involvement of the consumer and the varying communication processes, based on the sender-receiver model. For the empirical study, 10 fashion retailers were analyzed in terms of their communication of sustainability via their websites, with a focus on the consumer involvement. The results of empirical study were applied to the theoretical communication process model and illustrate the varying communication processes among the ten fashion retailers. The communication of sustainability via the Fashion retailer´s websites varied strongly. Only one fashion retailer communicated environmental- and social as well as all consumer-related aspects. As a result, the loop of the communication process has only been closed for one fashion retailer. Accordingly, these findings confirm that there is a need for fashion retailers to inform consumers in a holistic way about sustainability, especially in terms of sustainable fashion consumption when communicating sustainability via websites.
Purpose of this research paper is to assess the state of the art concerning the relevance of consumer segmentation models in the fashion industry with regards to current changes in technology, market structure and consumer behavior.
The paper is composed of a qualitative literature review and an empirical study in form of a survey. They are contrasted in order to identify both similarities and differences.
Findings reveal that consumer segmentation is still relevant. Notwithstanding, an adaptation of classification models is necessary according to occurring changes. External models, segmenting consumers by means of lifestyle or fashion typologies, are used. However, it is striking that most companies of the empirical study already apply internal segmentation models with tendency to rise. Moreover, research has shown that consumer classification models in the USA make use of different criteria than in Europe.
Language barriers within the literature review and a low sample size in the empirical study give research limitations. Future management implications can be directed to the identification of procedures for the efficient application of internal segmentation models.
The purpose of this paper is to find out how musicians are able to differentiate themselves from their competitors by using their style. Casting shows and the evolution of the contestants’ style during and after the show serve as a paradigm for creating differentiation by style. The method of research was diverse but largely drawn from research papers as well as online magazines and newspapers. Within the scope of the research, it was feasible to draw on a varied range of sources to answer the research question. In the course of this research paper, it was possible to define key factors for a musician to create differentiation by style in modern times. By examining the style of casting show contestants, it was explored to which extent they transform from rather normal people to pop stars. In reducing the detailed analysis of casting shows to three shows and contestants, only a broad overview was provided. The paper is of interest to those working for casting shows in order to develop those.
The purpose of this research is to explore current boundaries of the fashion industry’s second hand market and which solutions and approaches can be adopted from the used-car industry. The paper is based on the study of existing literature which deals with sustainability in combination with second hand markets in general and adaptable features of the used-car industry. Adaptable features are found using the business model canvas. The key finding of this study indicates that the fashion industry faces immense social and environmental challenges which can be partly solved by the development of the second hand market. Used-car industry can be seen as role model for fashion retail. In this study only aspects of used-car distribution are highlighted; therefore, characteristics of the recycling of used cars are not examined.
The purpose of this paper is to identify key success factors of Crowdfunding in the Music Business in order to discuss their applicability to the Fashion Industry. The research methodology applied is a literature review examining academic and non-academic references. Key research findings include four main success factors. First explains the innovative and adaptive nature of the music industry caused by historical evolution. Second strong commitment and connection to the fan base is identified as success factor. Third manageable effort for the realisation on a large scale reduces the risk of a failure. And, last success factor describes the successful implementation of campaign specific aspects. The discussion finally shows that three of four success factors can be adapted to the Fashion Business. Due to little scientific research in the field of Crowdfunding in the Music Business, the success factors are worked out independently, based on general literature. Accordingly, quantitative testing and further analysis is recommended.
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to examine the service of the new business model Curated Shopping in the fashion industry as well as to analyze if the service provides a higher costumer added value in comparison to traditional services in retail stores and e-commerce platforms. It gives implications to curated shop operators how to optimize the service in each stage of the customer buying process.
Design/methodology/approach: The research methodology applied is an empirical study that uses the principal of mystery shopping in order to investigate the provided services during the selling process.
Findings: The study showed that information about the customer should be collected carefully and as holistic as possible in order to assort a suitable outfit. The consumer is able to benefit from the service by saving time and enjoying a stress-free way of shopping. Nevertheless there are limitations in the personal service to give individual and inspiring advice by the curator caused by the physical distance to the customer.
Research limitations: The survey was conducted under 10 mystery shoppers and 4 curated shop operators in Germany, limiting findings to these mystery shoppers and operators.
Practical implications: One implication for the shop operators is to collect consumer information carefully and expand the assortment and brand portfolio in order to provide fashion goods to inspire the consumer. The shop operators are on the right track still there is huge potential to provide a more shopper-oriented service.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate how motion pictures are currently used for the product presentation of fashion articles in online shops in the German, American and British markets. This study shows that the use of moving images for the presentation of fashion articles in online shops is underutilized. With the amount of data that was manageable within the scope of this chapter, no valid generalizations can be made. All described results must be understood as an indication. In order to be able to use product presentation videos meaningfully, one should consider before exactly what is the purpose of these videos. Different goals require different means. However, retailer should obtain enough information in advance to assess whether they can afford the production and post processing of these videos.
For the widespread establishment of a circular economy, the acceptance of used products among consumers is a prerequisite. This paper investigates the customer experience of product service systems related to used products (PSSuP), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models, and aims to point out the offering characteristics that effect customer response and customer engagement. This study was conducted by means of a content analysis-based literature review of 69 empirical PSSuP studies. A frequency analysis of the categories that determine customer experience creation was conducted, as well as a contingency analysis to reveal the interrelationship between these categories. On this basis, the different PSSuP types were compared, and four strategic orientations of customer experience creation in PSSuP are pointed out: price, confidence, convenience, and delight orientation. For each of these strategic orientations, supportive PSSuP offering characteristics are specified. Building on the findings of this study, theoretical and managerial implications for product–service systems marketing are pointed out, and the need for research on the role of information and communication technology as an enabler of customer experience creation in PSSuP is highlighted.
Loyalty programs become more important in an omnichannel environment of fashion retail business. After the definition of customer loyalty and loyalty programs the main characteristics of omnichannel loyalty programs are described. As touchpoints of omnichannel loyalty programs mobile, social media, direct mail and in-store capabilities are detailed. A discussion chapter closes with recommendations for fashion retailers.
Defining the antecedents of experience co-creation as applied to alternative consumption models
(2019)
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to propose a conceptual framework of experience co-creation that captures the multi-dimensionality of this construct, as well as a research process for defining of the antecedents of experience co-creation.
Design/methodology/approach – The framework of experience co-creation was conceptualized by means of a literature review. Subsequently, this framework was used as the conceptual basis for a qualitative content analysis of 66 empirical papers investigating alternative consumption models (ACMs), such as renting, remanufacturing, and second-hand models.
Findings – The qualitative content analysis resulted in 12 categories related to the consumer and 9 related to the ACM offerings that represent the antecedents of experience co-creation. These categories provide evidence that, to a large extent, the developed conceptual framework allows one to capture the multi-dimensionality of the experience co-creation construct.
Research limitations/implications – This study underscores the understanding of experience co-creation as a function of the characteristics of the offering – which are, in turn, a function of the consumers’ motives as determined by their lifeworlds – as well as to service design as an iterative approach to finding, creating and refining service offerings.
Practical implications – The investigation of the antecedents of experience co-creation can enable service providers to determine significant consumer market conditions for forecasting the suitability and viability of their offerings and to adjust their service designs accordingly.
Originality/value – This paper provides a step toward the operationalization of the dimension-related experience co creation construct and presents an approach to defining the antecedents of experience co-creation by considering different research perspectives that can enhance service design research.
Ein Forscherteam der Pädagogischen Hochschule Freigburg und der Hochschule Reutlingen mit Expertisen in Kommunikationsdesign und einer ästhetisch-kulturellen Fachdidaktik der Grundschulpädagogik erforscht, inwieweit sich der iterative Prozess und Prinzipien des Design Thinking eignen, Kreativität, Problemlösekompetenz und kollaboratives Arbeiten von Grundschulkindern zu födern. Grundlage der Überlegungen sind die prozessorientierten Kompetenzen der Fächer Kunst/Werken und Sachunterricht gemäß dem aktuellen Bildungsplan in Baden-Württemberg. Nach Vortstudien mit Lehrpersonen und Ausbildungslehrkräften wurde eine Unterrichtseinheit konzipiert, in welcher Kinder der dritten Klassenstufe mittels Design Thinking den perfekten Leseort umsetzen sollten.
Today's pattern making methods for industrial purposes are including construction principles, which are based on mathematical formula and sizing charts. As a result, there are two-dimensional flats, which can be converted into a three-dimensional garment. Because of their high linearity, those patterns are incapable of recreating the complexity of the human body, which results in insufficient fit. Subsequent changes of the pattern require a high degree of experience and lead to an inefficient product development process. It is known that draping allows the development of more complex and demanding patterns, which corresponds more to the actual body shape. Therefore, this method is used in custom tailoring and haute couture to achieve perfect garment fit but is also associated with time.
So, there is the act of defiance to improve the fit of garments, to speed up production but maintain a good value for money. Reutlingen University is therefore working on the development of 3D-modelled body shapes for 3D draping, considering different layers of clothing, such as jackets or coats. For this purpose, 3D modelling is used to develop 3D-bodies that correspond to the finished dimensions of the garment. By flattening of the modelled body, it is then possible to obtain an optimal 2D Pattern of the body. The comparison of the conventional method and the developed method is done by 3D simulation.
Finally, the optical fit test is demonstrated by the simulated basic cuts, that a significantly better body wrapping through the newly developed methodology could be achieved. Unlike in the basic cuts, which were achieved by classical design principles have been created, only a few adjustments are necessary to obtain an optimized basic cut. Also, when considering the body distance, it is shown that the newly developed basic patterns provide a more even enclosure of the body.